happycheapskate
Active Member
re: choke lever. See my profile pics. I just used a piece of clear vinyl fuel hose for an extension lever. This has stayed on and worked great since November. It doesn't hurt if my leg snags it getting on and off the bike, but I rarely ever hit it or even use it.
I don't know why Flapdoodle's killswitch isn't working, perhaps there is a cut or broken wire, or a bad switch.
Get a 6" to 12" piece of junk wire, to test your frame to engine ground. Perhaps you are using rubber shims to mount your engine.
Strip the ends 1/4" and put one end around the plug knob, under the boot. Isolate or cap the other end temporarily. USING THICK DRY LEATHER OR RUBBER GLOVES, start the motor, and ground the running engine to the frame somewhere, like the crank arm or a bottle cage boss. I grounded all my wires to a bottle cage screw that I can't use, up under the engine. Worked great.
You should easily be able to make or wire a killswitch using the diagram I shared. Good luck. It is important to have, esp in case of a fuel spill or fire, or if your engine or chain line starts to malfunction.
re: Light Kit.
Once the engine is running and the switch is thrown, the engine will miss a couple cycles (fraction of second) as the electricity surges through the wire, then regain normal operation. There will be a slight drag on the engine as it produces current/weans the ignition system of a little current for the lights. If your idle is adjusted high enough, it will stay running, or you can manually keep a little fuel above normal low idle.
If the engine dies, you will have to switch off the lights to restart the engine. You will not be able to start the engine with the lights switched on.
PS Dan, the blue wire in the CDI circuit puts out a current too, or the bikes wouldn't run. And don't be fooled by the size of a wire. I got zapped so hard I got dizzy by a skinny wire while messing with a CB radio.
I don't know why Flapdoodle's killswitch isn't working, perhaps there is a cut or broken wire, or a bad switch.
Get a 6" to 12" piece of junk wire, to test your frame to engine ground. Perhaps you are using rubber shims to mount your engine.
Strip the ends 1/4" and put one end around the plug knob, under the boot. Isolate or cap the other end temporarily. USING THICK DRY LEATHER OR RUBBER GLOVES, start the motor, and ground the running engine to the frame somewhere, like the crank arm or a bottle cage boss. I grounded all my wires to a bottle cage screw that I can't use, up under the engine. Worked great.
You should easily be able to make or wire a killswitch using the diagram I shared. Good luck. It is important to have, esp in case of a fuel spill or fire, or if your engine or chain line starts to malfunction.
re: Light Kit.
Once the engine is running and the switch is thrown, the engine will miss a couple cycles (fraction of second) as the electricity surges through the wire, then regain normal operation. There will be a slight drag on the engine as it produces current/weans the ignition system of a little current for the lights. If your idle is adjusted high enough, it will stay running, or you can manually keep a little fuel above normal low idle.
If the engine dies, you will have to switch off the lights to restart the engine. You will not be able to start the engine with the lights switched on.
PS Dan, the blue wire in the CDI circuit puts out a current too, or the bikes wouldn't run. And don't be fooled by the size of a wire. I got zapped so hard I got dizzy by a skinny wire while messing with a CB radio.
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