$5 Home Depot headlight revisited

Status
Not open for further replies.
All ya gotta do is put a 6V led (bulb) in the light case you buy. It's not the fixture thats using the voltage, it's the bulb.
fatdaddy.
Actually, most LEDs run 2.5 to 3.4 volts- you have to ballast them with about 100 ohms of resistance to run them on 6volt
AW CRIPES!!!! I forgot to ive the specifics on the LEDs I used! er... next transmission then...
 
Actually, most LEDs run 2.5 to 3.4 volts- you have to ballast them with about 100 ohms of resistance to run them on 6volt
AW CRIPES!!!! I forgot to ive the specifics on the LEDs I used! er... next transmission then...

YEAH. What Sarge said.
Big Red.
 
603944_10151104580197413_542035873_n.jpg

Here is the light attached the the bike. It works wonderfully! Fantastic at night and good for day riding. I like that it's focused!
 
Mounted light

Littletinman... dude... that is so cool...
Well, here goes more of the same topic, down to the wire on the tail light. Understand that TIS particular unit is going on a bike where the light is on if the engine is running... BUT, the brake light will require the brakes applied as well. Next project will show a cheap fussy to make switch that clamps onto a caliper brake- those of you running coasters will have to tap your front brake to get the light.
 

Attachments

  • mounted tail light 001.jpg
    mounted tail light 001.jpg
    75.9 KB · Views: 651
  • mounted tail light 002.jpg
    mounted tail light 002.jpg
    75.5 KB · Views: 596
  • mounted tail light 003.jpg
    mounted tail light 003.jpg
    77.8 KB · Views: 566
  • mounted tail light 004.jpg
    mounted tail light 004.jpg
    75.5 KB · Views: 576
Here's the last two- in the second picture, there's another bike in the background with a 'Beehive" clearance light lens used on a similar base, attatched to a bead cut on a lathe... fussy bit of work if you can do it, but looks totally cool. Problem is, it's for an incandecent (filiment) bulb, so they are getting harder to find...
 

Attachments

  • mounted tail light 005.jpg
    mounted tail light 005.jpg
    66.6 KB · Views: 578
  • mounted tail light 006.jpg
    mounted tail light 006.jpg
    76.2 KB · Views: 615
The picture on post # 30 shows the light assembly- the outer ring is 1.5 " PVC schedule 40, about 1" worth. I took an endcap for the same and drilled a 1/4 inch hole in the center and a smaller hole (for the wires) off to the side. This I shortened just a bit, then painted with KRYLON FUSION (I recomend this highly for PVC) and mounted a 1/4" x 3/4" carriage bolt through the center hole from the inside so the threads poke out the hole... this will be how you mount it. Crush the shoulder of the bolt head into the hole and you will not have it turn on you when you tighten the nut that holds it. Now thread the wires through the smaller hole, place a small socket over the threads to protect them and mount the whole operation into a vice- crush it together (make sure it doesn't cant one way or another) and drill holes at 180 degrees in the lens- drill smaller holes to accept #6 Pan heads x 1/2", mount lens and cut your strap iron to make a mount... pretty self-explanitory, actually... unfortunatly, my camera boogered the memory regarding those images
 
Sorry for the need for more clarification, but where is the lens coming from? The red part? And how are you mounting the LED's inside the housing?
 
Sorry for the need for more clarification, but where is the lens coming from? The red part? And how are you mounting the LED's inside the housing?

OK- those red reflectors in the NAPA blister package, you remove the backing from one as shown in the photo and drill two holes in a north/south orientation (or 12/6) and drill two corrosponding holes into the face (combined edge ) of the endcap and tubing of the unit... two #6 panhead screws of 1/2" length are then used to secure the lens to the housing. The LEDs are 5mm diameter- you see where I drilled six holes to accomodate them? Given the softness of the yellow plastic from the $5 flashlight's body, once I cut that disk to fit and drilled the slighty undersized holes, I mearly shoved the LEDs into the holes and let friction hold them. Soldering the wires as I did finished the deal as well as the hot glue filler that locked the disk into the ring of tube as well as locked the LEDs to the disk.... and insulated the whole thing to boot. Then the ring was shoved into the cap via benchvise without glue... it is NOT coming apart anytime soon, I assure you... after I painted it, of course
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top