a radio for my bike.

About the boombox... a CD player may skip unless it has shock protection which is no good out on the road. Something with a tape deck or aux in would work for MP3 players and sat radios though.
About that battery.

First check this link, I'd go for the 5ah or 8ah batteries. Personally I bought the 5ah not knowing at the time how much space I would have to work with, when that battery eventually dies I'll be ordering the 8ah. The extra couple pounds and size should be well worth it.

For a charger I bought the 12v 1a auto battery charger with 2-port inline plug. However the first charger on that page with the coaxial connection would be much easier to setup the charging port on your bike. The connector I bought for the 2 port inline required some tinkering and figuring out before I could string the wires up to it while the coaxial ports seem to be pre-wired. At the moment it appears this particular site is out of the coaxial chargers (probably because they're easier to wire.)

I also purchased a bunch of these tab terminal connectors (at the last link.) The lower number AWG can handle bigger wire and are larger connectors. You need at least 2 female connectors for the battery tabs. They're really cheap so I bought a bunch of them. Splice connectors are nice too in some cases to join 2 or 3 wires together without having to solder and seal them.

Get a 30 amp ato fuse holder as well. You can get the fuses just about anywhere. This is just in case you short something out so you don't have a fire.

You can also buy wire by the foot there, seem to be competitive prices but you can definitely find this easily in any auto supply store. I used 16ga.

Keep in mind you can definitely find this stuff easily on other sites but this one seems to have just about everything needed to power a motorebike up electrically in one place. And I prefer to combine shipping costs as much as possible and spread my credit card number around as little as I can. Their products worked for me and from the sound of it you should have the ability to make sure your wiring is sound (multimeter.) Be sure to get a good wire stripper and crimper. Get something with large wide handles so you can clamp down those connectors without killing your hands. I bought the one on their site but it wasn't very good. Stripped wires fine but crimping hurt like heck and didn't do a good job. I ended up going out to buy another one from the auto section of walmart (also a ton of awesome stuff there) If anything I can help you out with the wiring as long as you provide pictures.

You could also wire up a car style power port to plug anything into your system like car cellphone chargers, gps units, powered tire air compressors etc etc etc :)
thanks for all the links, jake. im thinking of opening up the radio, and putting some kind of mount (mabey like on the back of a clock?) so i will have easy removal. and making it where it mounts on the fender under my butt, so i wont have to fool with moving speakers around. i have an extra wall outlet and box somwhere. i might consiider mounting that someday. i already have connectors, but from what ya said i WILL have to disect a charger. that said, i might have one but ill be safe and buy one from the site. instead of using the coaxle deal, ill just put the conectors on the charger and then when i want to charge ill just unhook my equip and charge away.
oh, and i think ill get a thrift store radio, so when i start forgetting about it i wont be as mad when i ruin it making rooster tails lol
this is how its floating around in my head. 1 id my rendition and 2 is the original pic.


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I'm pretty confident you can fit the 8ah cell behind the seat tube on the stingray. Get the measurements for the 5 and 8 ah batteries and tape measure that area on your bike. These batteries are sealed gel cells so you can orient them any way you want without needing to fear spillage or malfunction. You could easily just strap it onto the frame with heavy duty zip ties. However if I were you I would put some padding between the frame and battery since I know HT engines produce a lot of vibrations and you want to keep the battery away from that as much as possible.

I made a very simple diagram of how to wire this thing as easily as possible. At most you should need 2 inline splice connectors (1 on positive wire, 1 on negative wire) and 2 tab terminal connectors for the battery, 4 tab INSULATED tab terminal connectors for the radio (2 male 2 female). You should be able to wire this up really quickly.

Starting at the SLA (+).
Tab terminal female (insulated or not)
fuse wire/fuse holder
inline connector (lowest awg # possible)
positive charge wire/positive radio wire (twist together and crimp in inline)
tab terminal female
tab terminal male
radio positive wire...
Radio negative wire
tab terminal female (or opposite from + wire so you don't mix them up when you disconnect/reconnect the radio)
tab terminal male
inline connector
negative radio wire/negative charge wire (twist together and crimp in inline)
tab terminal
SLA (-)

If you want to clean things up a bit on the radio connection you could also use a coaxial port rather than the 4 tab terminals... but this is the cheapest way to go. Be sure to buy a but of extra wires and connectors. You're bound to mess a few of these pieces up while doing this. And keep in mind you'll be adding lighting onto this in the future as well.

Hope I wasn't too confusing. sorry about the crudeness of the drawing. It's morning I'm not in the zone yet.


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well, i ordered the stuff, but i think ill hook up the radio in my bike trailer i bought for 20 bucks. (not the one i built) and use it to hold on the road bevrages, and the radio. cause my ma thinks it will look stoopid. and plus, my n my neighbor are starting bike rides on push bikes again, and this way i can hear traffic. i wanna lose some weight. i weigh 200.
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