Engine Trouble Can't get engine to stay at idle!!

I know it has already been said, but if I was you I would head to the closest auto parts store and get an ngk spark plug right away. It might seem trivial to you, but those stock plugs really suck. On my first build the difference was night and day when I changed plugs. That one bit of advice made me a believer in the guys on the forum here
 
Just one other stray though here, when you put the cylinder jug on the motor bottom, did you make sure to torque those nuts down to 144 inch pounds in an X pattern???...You will also need to do this after every heat cycle/cool down for the first 200 miles or so to seat it in properly.

To be done ONLY when it is stone cold again.
 
No, its at the top, i didnt work at the middle or the lower part. Imma put it in the middle again
This is one of the reasons that seasoned builders will only make one change at a time with these little beasties in order to isolate any problems.

Your well on your way to learning this...lol.
 
Getting an ngk was the first ride on my bike. I got two, one for the bike and one for my tool kit. Keeping a spare plug on your is great, especially if it is fouled out on the side of the road.
 
Just one other stray though here, when you put the cylinder jug on the motor bottom, did you make sure to torque those nuts down to 144 inch pounds in an X pattern???...You will also need to do this after every heat cycle/cool down for the first 200 miles or so to seat it in properly.

To be done ONLY when it is stone cold again.
I have zero clue of what you mean tbh
 
I have zero clue of what you mean tbh
Here is one of your pics below:...See those acorn nuts on the top, 4 of them???...You are supposed to use a torque wrench on them and incrementally tighten them one at a time with a torque wrench until they are set at 144 INCH pounds using an inch pound torque wrench which can be purchased at Harbor Freight for about 20 bucks,...They are about 10 to eleven inches long and are a quarter inch drive mechanism.

Must be done in a criss cross X pattern for equal distribution of torque.

I would also replace those acorn nuts with actual regular nuts and lock washers as the acorn nut tops tend to stop at the top of the stud itself without tightening it properly to actuall torque it down to the bottom half of the motor.

image.jpg
 
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