Jackshaft cassette wear and single cog replacement for shifter bike

[KCvale]

I would like to have a beach cruiser type frame but I never seen any that look big enough for me. I am 6'4" 32 inseam. My bike I have now is actually a little to small for me if I were to ride it strictly pedal but works out fine for motorbiking.

Nice build you have there but ya, a little small for 6'4".

I am 6'2" 165 and the 29" Macargi Fatal Love is a nice big beach cruiser for a direct drive, you just add a font caliper brake.

The 26" Macargi Pantera 7S is a big beach cruiser as well and one of my favorites to build on with dual V's that is big enough for your stature.

For a direct drive it's nice, the rag-joint sprocket fits perfectly over the 7-speed and nearly self aligns.

This is that Pantera from the earlier picture with the new 3-speed hub and front shock fork almost done.

We will knock that 49cc 4-stroke 4G 3-speed shifter build out this morning as it's just button-up work left, the point is there are lots of big boy bikes out there in that $250-$350 range.

If your wallet is a little fatter you can get a big boy mountain bike like this ~$500 Specialized 66cc 7-speed shifter I built for a 6'8" ~230 pound pro ball players brother.

I could get my feet on the ground with the seat there and the shock seat post goes up like 5" more and I have to admit a very comfortable fast MB.

 

[Fabian]

A proper suspension seat post that works with great efficiency is the Cane Creek Thudbuster LT

Never looked back once fitting it to my bike.

 

[KCvale]

A proper suspension seat post that works with great efficiency is the Cane Creek Thudbuster LT

Never looked back once fitting it to my bike.

Neat seat post shock design.

I love a seat post shock too but I wouldn't pay more for one than I payed for the whole bike and that seat shock is $229, heck that nice front fork shock on Big Red II was only $80 and it's going to do way more to smooth the ride than any seat shock with a big beach cruiser spring comfort seat I would think.

 

[sactownie]

The fat tires did the trick for me. They absorb 99% of the bumps in my opinion. The 1% I can feel is like a bounce though, not a butt jarring thump.
I got the big gear on the jackshaft moved over to the left about 2-3 more MM so no more worries about the tire rubbing the chain.
That jackshaft doesn't really want to come apart very easily after using it for 400 or so miles!

 

[KCvale]

The fat tires did the trick for me. They absorb 99% of the bumps in my opinion. The 1% I can feel is like a bounce though, not a butt jarring thump.

We are lucky here in Phoenix, we have some of best maintained roadways in the country and an already large network of bicycle lanes and bike trails but all it takes is one pothole, sewer grate or the like to ruin your day.

I got the big gear on the jackshaft moved over to the left about 2-3 more MM so no more worries about the tire rubbing the chain.
That jackshaft doesn't really want to come apart very easily after using it for 400 or so miles!

That is a good thing as it really sucks when riding and all the sudden you loose drive power and hear the 'tink a tinkity tink' of all the JS parts falling on the ground.

 

[sactownie]

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That is a good thing as it really sucks when riding and all the sudden you loose drive power and hear the 'tink a tinkity tink' of all the JS parts falling on the ground.

Yea it was the same way when I replaced the 1st motor that failed on me at 150 miles. I lock tight all the setscrews and they come loose when I un loosen them but the sprockets seem to almost weld them selves to the shaft. I did the flat spots and all but I still needed a gear puller to free them from the shaft. This is a good thing as long as I don't need to take the jackshaft apart on the side of the road for emergency repair.

 

[Fabian]

it really sucks when riding and all the sudden you loose drive power and hear the 'tink a tinkity tink' of all the JS parts falling on the ground.

That doesn't happen if using Loctite 243 on the jackshaft grub screws.

needed a gear puller to free them from the shaft.

Loctite 243 or any other similar thread locking compound will sometimes make it's way to the inner diameter of the jackshaft gears. In this situation the use of a small $10 gear puller will remove the affected parts quickly and easily.

 

[sactownie]

I have used so much locktite on this bike I am almost out! I usually have this stuff sitting around for 10 years and it dries up but not with this thing.

 

[Fabian]

I have used so much locktite on this bike I am almost out! I usually have this stuff sitting around for 10 years and it dries up but not with this thing.

You obviously must be doing something wrong because i need to apply heat to remove any component parts fixed in place with Loctite 243.

Loctite will not adhere if there is grease or oil on the threads. My first step in the thread locking process is to fill a sprayer bottle with Mineral Turpentine and another sprayer bottle with Methylated Spirits.
Any threaded part (requiring thread locking) is first sprayed with Mineral Turpentine (to get rid of surface grease or oil) then aggressively blown dry with high pressure air, followed with a liberal spraying of Methylated Spirits to get rid of any residual Mineral Turpentine. Once that's done i gently heat the metallic part to get rid of any water that may have condensed on the threads from the rapid cooling effect of evaporated Methylated spirits.
After the parts are assembled, Loctite 243 is applied to the threads, which are then screwed in place. This process has "always" given me consistent thread locking fixture.

I took a ride today and another spoke broke, was nursing it home and another spoke broke then my brand new tire popped 1 block from my house.

I have no idea why or how people manage to break spokes.
In 50,000 kilometers (30,000 miles) i have never broken a spoke from normal wheel rotation, and that includes using a base model rear wheel from two different manufacturers, Shimano and Quando. What is even more surprising is that i do Heavy Haul; using low range gearing; placing tremendous torque loading on the rear wheel; far in excess of what anyone can achieve with standard SBP jackshaft gearing, in fact i'm totally gobsmacked that i don't rip every single spoke out of the rim just getting the rear wheel turning.

 

[sactownie]

I havent had a problem with the loctite, Im just using it so much because every time something breaks im using it everytime I have to take things apart. I previously used loctite on little 1/10 scale nitro radio control cars and they don't require much.

The wheel breaking another spoke was the last straw, I went and purchased a new wheel with 36 spokes instead of my stock wheels 32 spoke. I hit a big pothole 1 1/2 months ago at 30mph. It was then I noticed the 1st broken spoke. ive been replacing them at a rate of 1 a week and its usually the same spoke breaking which indicates I bent the rim that first time.
You've obviously been really lucky with wheels because once your rim is bent, correcting it with uneven tensions on the spokes will just keep breaking them. I had this happen before on a pedal bike and all was solved with a new wheel.
I got lucky in that I purchased my tire at walmart, they took the blown out sidewall tire back no questions asked and I exchanged it for a new one.

NOTE that walmart is now charging $21 for the same tire they were charging a week ago $16! .
It must have been my post here about that tire only being $16 and they got all these orders now from it! I would buy the cst cyclops over these, the cyclops is more of a performance tire in that the tread wraps around the whole tire and these do not which is why these tire don't take high speed corners very well!
The drawback is no local shops/stores carry them but there probably worth the wait at $34 a pair delivered from amazon?