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Chain tensioner can also be the culprit if chain comes off rear sprocket occasionally.
Sumsloppymeet
Active Member
only tensioner i would ever recommend so far is Maniac Mechanics change the little sprocket wheel for a roller with high side edges the sprocket can get stuck in the chain sometimes
https://www.mmbikeparts.com/Chain-Tensioner-s/118.htm
https://www.mmbikeparts.com/Chain-Tensioner-s/118.htm
Freddy Snottgrass
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40 bucks though?
The_Aleman
Well-Known Member
That unsprung thing that comes with a 2-stroke kit isn't really a tensioner, it's an idler. If it's treated like a tensioner, one might have problems with it, because the chain will often end up too tight. If you've ever noticed the chain getting more or less slack as it travels, that's because chains and sprockets are rarely ever perfect. They often don't wear uniformly.
The other variable is chainstay angle of the frame. It doesn't necessarily follow the same straight path as the chain does. Chainstays are usually wider near the wheel axles than they are at the front of the rear tire, especially on multispeed bikes, so the idler bracket has to be twisted to accommodate that angle:
Simply line up the top of the idler bracket with the upper chain travel by twisting it. I used a large crescent wrench.
I haven't had a problem with even the 2-bolt kit idler once by using this method. Every one of my chinagirl bikes has used the kit idler.
If you can get away with not using one, that's great, but not everyone can because of all the weird chainstay angles out there.
Sometimes the chain will rub on the frame of some bikes with certain size sprockets and the idler is a necessity.
Edit: I forgot to add - I highly recommend some type of axle adjustor to keep the wheel centered, the wheel sliding left or right in the dropouts can destroy chains, idlers/tensioners, sprockets, spokes etc. You guys with semi-horizontal front-exit dropouts (seems like most people here) are especially vulnerable. Lock that axle down so it doesn't move under power!
The other variable is chainstay angle of the frame. It doesn't necessarily follow the same straight path as the chain does. Chainstays are usually wider near the wheel axles than they are at the front of the rear tire, especially on multispeed bikes, so the idler bracket has to be twisted to accommodate that angle:
Simply line up the top of the idler bracket with the upper chain travel by twisting it. I used a large crescent wrench.
I haven't had a problem with even the 2-bolt kit idler once by using this method. Every one of my chinagirl bikes has used the kit idler.
If you can get away with not using one, that's great, but not everyone can because of all the weird chainstay angles out there.
Sometimes the chain will rub on the frame of some bikes with certain size sprockets and the idler is a necessity.
Edit: I forgot to add - I highly recommend some type of axle adjustor to keep the wheel centered, the wheel sliding left or right in the dropouts can destroy chains, idlers/tensioners, sprockets, spokes etc. You guys with semi-horizontal front-exit dropouts (seems like most people here) are especially vulnerable. Lock that axle down so it doesn't move under power!
Last edited:
gary55
Well-Known Member
Well put. Align the roller and set tension at the tightest spot of rotation. A little twist here and there goes a long way.
Sumsloppymeet
Active Member
whats the best axle locks/adjusters??
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