Change 1 inch steerer frame to fit 1 1/8 forks

robe

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This has been mentioned before but this is the way I did it.

Most of these 1 inch head tube frames have a 34 mm OD tube, an odd size. In order to make this work, I needed 34 mm ID. All I could find was a 34 mm ID cap for some stainless tube. Way too much work to cut the cap to make a bushing.

What I did find was 1 5/8 Schedule 40 welded steel pipe, it has an ID of just over 34 mm. I had a couple pieces cut at 3/4 and welded them on. Should work with a sealed bearing press in head set, it's a little loose so I may have to put some brass shim stock in to tighten it up.

Here is a picture with a fresh coat of flat black on it. Also showing is one of the gussets I put on this frame.
 

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The area of a beach cruiser frame that I discovered that needs reinforcement is behind the seatpost
The rear of the frame likes to flex when going around turns at M/B speeds

Yeah, this is a Whizzer frame made for the Whizzer M/B
It is strong frame with a gusset at the frame neck and a gusset motor mount bracket connecting the bottom frame tube to the BB and center seatpost tube, but as you can see the side rails cracked just behind the seatpost tube
To Whizzers credit the side rails didn't crack until after 33k miles of riding

This is the reinforcement plate I made and my 20/20 touch up paint job
Touch up paint job looks good at 20 feet away going by at 20 mph :LOL:


Yep both side rails cracked once and I welded it up, but it crack again in the same spot right behind the weld so I welded on a plate
I also welded the side rails more to the top tube
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Tig welded
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20/20 touch up paint job
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20/20 Touch up paint job looks good at 20' away going by at 20 mph :LOL:

I now have almost 42K miles on my bike and check my frame for any cracks every time I change the oil, she's still holding strong
No Problems
 

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This has been mentioned before but this is the way I did it.

Most of these 1 inch head tube frames have a 34 mm OD tube, an odd size. In order to make this work, I needed 34 mm ID. All I could find was a 34 mm ID cap for some stainless tube. Way too much work to cut the cap to make a bushing.

What I did find was 1 5/8 Schedule 40 welded steel pipe, it has an ID of just over 34 mm. I had a couple pieces cut at 3/4 and welded them on. Should work with a sealed bearing press in head set, it's a little loose so I may have to put some brass shim stock in to tighten it up.

Here is a picture with a fresh coat of flat black on it. Also showing is one of the gussets I put on this frame.
Good job on the headset, you da man (y)

Nice gusset too
 
Thanks Wrench. Makes doing this more fun when there is an audience to share it with.

I made a gusset for the seat tube on this frame like the one you made for your Whizzer. I'l post a picture of that one this evening with my carbon fiber patterns(cardboard). Carbon fiber sounds so much more sophisticated than cardboard. Lol.
 
Here is the gusset and the patterns. Needs more sanding.

More headset issues.
With this double springer set up I was all set for final assembly and realized it won't work. Of course I put loc-tite on everything. Lol.
I had added sealed bearings with press in races. The extra height of these plus the preload nut there is no way to put it together. Not long enough.

So, I'll go back to the ball and cup setup as it isn't very high at all, probably gain back 1/2 inch. Should be enough. I don't want to lengthen the tube if I can help it. I may be able to lower the bottom race with some careful filling to gain a bit more .

Fun and games.
 

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This is the same issue I went through a couple days ago on my OCC build. Check and see if there is a sealed bearing available that is not as thick. Installing these would allow you to trim the overall length of your steering tube down somewhat. Another option would be, cut off the lower bearing retainer and saw some off the bottom of the steering tube, then weld it back on. What you're doing is looking good. You can make this work.
 
Thanks guys.
Micheal, I'm just going to use the caged ball style, it is really compact in comparison to the sealed units. I'm going to look into ditching the cages and go with loose balls if I don't like the action.

I'm going to change the rear dropouts to horizontal and make them a little longer. This frame is quite short so a bit more length will help.

My CDH triple tree suspension forks came today and the steerer tube is 234 mm long so lots of length, in fact I'll have to cut it down. The forks seem pretty nice, I'm happy with them so far.
 
I've heard about loose balls on pedal shafts and wheels, but on steering there just isn't enough constant movement to warrant it. Besides, loading them in the bottom cup might be a real PITA. Glad everything worked out for ya.
 
I've heard about loose balls on pedal shafts and wheels, but on steering there just isn't enough constant movement to warrant it. Besides, loading them in the bottom cup might be a real PITA. Glad everything worked out for ya.
Coat the bottom of the steer tube with good quality grease and use it to hold the bearings in place.
 
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