Columbia 1937 board tracker real gas tank

I normally don't build on ~$150 wally world type bikes but this caught my eye.
http://www.walmart.com/ip/39801995?...7321352&wl4=&wl5=pla&wl6=105949407872&veh=sem

The 'tank' is two pieces of pressed formed sheet metal that butt together in the middle via 2 struts attached to the frame via cut outs, two screws on each side plate, and top mounting hole to strut between the split top bar.

I thought I'd see if I can make it wide enough to get a filler and petcock on it and seal it up like Sportsman does.

I made new inner struts to widen the front 7cm wider and the rear 3.5cm wider.
NOTE: flattening the front struts V mount out straight gives you the back strut.

That leaves me enough room for the petcock, and with the wider front enough room for the filler I hacked off an old kit tank.

I found a spiffy thinner steel filler and venting cap that that is pretty darn cool.
If the bike falls over all you get is a little drip from the tiny vent hole as the cap is threaded with an O ring seal.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Custom-Fuel...h-weld-in-Bung-SMALL-CUSTOM-NEW-/191495380281


For the petcock I'm going with the new MB kit one with the threaded collar so you can orient the valve lever and it has a double long inner screen with a Normal and Reserve setting.
http://www.gasbike.net/gasoline-tank-switch-for-2.5-L-gas-tank.html

Reserve on this flat tank should be enough for 10 miles or more.

I got some poster board to cut out the templates for the sheet metal and thinking I'll just pop-rivet it on because I found this to seal up the tank.
http://www.caswellplating.com/restoration-aids/epoxy-gas-tank-sealer.html

A gas-proof liquid 2 part epoxy that creates a solid tank inside the shell.

Under $100 to NOT use a peanut tank is worth it, and the bike itself has potential for handlebars down board tracker feel or sit up nice beach cruiser.
Worth exploring for me ;-}

 

[schwinn123]

awesome KC, thanks for the answers. Ill be posting a small thread for the build. Including a mount i managed to rig up, not sure how much i like it though. Hope to hear your thoughts.

 

[KCvale]

I ordered the Caswell yesterday.... I've read that the viscosity is something like honey? Do you recommend thinning it to roll around inside the tank easier.... or just go full thickness?

Don't try to thin it, just work in as warm of an environment as you can get, I did mine outside on a nice sunny 80 degree February afternoon ;-}

And, I was wondering if it would be a good idea (while installing the petcock) to feed a wire down through the filler hole and out the petcock hole...
Jim

Don't leave the petcock in to coat!
I just put tape over the bung and drilled it out when it cured.
Hence why I used the new style petcock with external bung threads.

If you are going to try to use an internally threaded bung I guess find a bolt with those threads, grease up the bolt and run it up into the tank and hope the caswel don't bind to it.

 

[schwinn123]

KC, did you have any chain alignment issues? I got my tensioner bent to a good position, but something still seems a little off. Every couple revolutions, it almost wants to skip off the rear sprocket. Did you use the standard rag joint sprocket and mounting kit? Cant seem to figure out why it isn't running true enough.

 

[KCvale]

KC, did you have any chain alignment issues?
I got my tensioner bent to a good position, but something still seems a little off.
Every couple revolutions, it almost wants to skip off the rear sprocket.
Did you use the standard rag joint sprocket and mounting kit?
Cant seem to figure out why it isn't running true enough.

No alignment issues at all.
It sounds like an un-true sprocket to me.
It could be an untrue sprocket to begin with, did you test it on a dead flat surface first?
You simply can't 'adjust out' an untrue sprocket and I have a dozen or so that came that way and we don't put one on until we test it first.

If it's a true sprocket then it is just installation.

I did this the same way I do every rag joint sprocket.
I put it in a jig on the bench (a fork in the bench vice), tighten it down, and spin the wheel.

You need to look for both vertical and horizontal wobble and adjust it out.

Vertical wobble is what makes a chain tight then lose then tight again.
I always smile at the guys that make spring loaded tensioners to 'correct' this ;-}

Horizontal wobble is what makes the chain come off in back.
The teeth are never in the same alignment with the engine sprocket.

Hope that helps.

 

[schwinn123]

Hm i will have to check that. sure looks pretty straight to me but it won't hurt to check. Getting tired of taking this wheel apart haha. I have another sprocket laying around from the last kit when i opted to use the manic mechanic setup in the back. Ill give that a look tomorrow. Ive got a boatload of parts coming in for my next build already, i was hoping this one would be gone by now. Thanks

 

[KCvale]

Ive got a boatload of parts coming in for my next build already,
i was hoping this one would be gone by now.
Thanks

I know that feeling.
We tend to have 2 or 3 builds going on at a time and just trying to keep parts separate is a challenge.
A 'parts bin' for each build helps, but still not easy when you only have 1 build bay.

 

[Motorfan1937]

Help! I need a gas tank!

I just got one of these bikes and I'm looking to get it motorized but I want to get a gas tank built for it. Can anyone make me one? I will pay of course. Message me if interested.

 

[KTOKTO]

Bumping an old thread because I am thinking about building a board track type of bike this fall and like the looks of this Columbia bike.

KC, how would you rate the quality and strength of the frame for use as a motorized bike? I would probably throw the rest of the stuff away and just use the frame, tank, fenders and fork.

 

[KCvale]

KC, how would you rate the quality and strength of the frame for use as a motorized bike? I would probably throw the rest of the stuff away and just use the frame, tank, fenders and fork.

This build...

Ya, the frame, front fork, and covers/fenders are good, but the rear wheel is a Huffy-like POS and failed in short order.

Don't forget to put a pair of additional brakes on it, no motorized bike is safe with just a coaster brake, especially this bikes only brake which will break and leave you broke in one way or another ;-}

 

[KTOKTO]

Ya, the frame, front fork, and covers/fenders are good, but the rear wheel is a Huffy-like POS and failed in short order.

Don't forget to put a pair of additional brakes on it, no motorized bike is safe with just a coaster brake, especially this bikes only brake which will break and leave you broke in one way or another ;-}

Thanks. I would build a decent set of wheels from scratch and, for brakes, I was planning a shimano coaster and center pull brake in the rear and a sturmy archer drum brake hub up front. I am pretty good at sheet metal work and this build got me interested due to the price and the steel frame. $130 for the tank, frame, fork and fenders seemed like a good deal if the frame is up to the task. Good to hear your expert opinion on it. I will pick one up.