Comments on plug color

So I'm just going to ride my normal bike now. She coming apart now and I'm going to finish the case transfers. Since I'm not going to be able to tune this with this reed and since I have to pull the cylinder to port match the Reed and sand polish and stuff the transfers I mide aswell start now. I only have 3 days of bike 5.5 miles each way what's a little exercise going to hurt
Why are you stuffing the transfers? Why would you polish anything in the intake track, you want it rough so as to help keep the charge atomized meaning the fuel suspended in the air, smooth polished surfaces will allow the fuel to drop out of suspension and bead up.
Is there not someone in your area that can help you setup and tune this engine?
 
B5HS is now 4210 according to what I found on the internet. All the NGK numbers have changed to a four digit number, if you search any NGK number you can find the new four digit number online.
Advance auto parts here has NGK plugs in stock, I search for the old plug number and find the new number. The most commonly recommend b6hs is a 7534.
Let me do some clairification here on these numbers.

NGK-B6HS IS the actual spark plug number.

7534 IS a stock number that auto parts stores use to order them, they order by STOCK number on the bar code, not the actual plug number.

NGK has not changed their numbering system at all, your spark plugs and the box they come in will still be marked with an actual NGK number but also will show the stock number on the box as well.

The bar code on the box actually contains the number 7534 as the last four numbers of the barcode that they all order by.

Ps...If you order direct from NGK, you may well have to order by stock number like the autopart store do.
 
Why are you stuffing the transfers? Why would you polish anything in the intake track, you want it rough so as to help keep the charge atomized meaning the fuel suspended in the air, smooth polished surfaces will allow the fuel to drop out of suspension and bead up.
Is there not someone in your area that can help you setup and tune this engine?
Why becase I don't want open ports. I'm looking to keep the plenum velocity a little higher plus running a boost port. I'm in the city so stop and go threw to 35-40 if the power range I'm look for. I want. Top end but not at the expense on low power. These grubbee engines need to be cleaned before I use them. I didn't open them up so the crevices in the corner and the face of the cylinder wall is going to be shaped based on port b. I lowered the angles of the roof just slightly pointing just below the spark plug. And the boost is still relatively small with it's angle pointing sharply up. I'll take pictures when I have everything apart.
 

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Why becase I don't want open ports. I'm looking to keep the plenum velocity a little higher plus running a boost port. I'm in the city so stop and go threw to 35-40 if the power range I'm look for. I want. Top end but not at the expense on low power. These grubbee engines need to be cleaned before I use them. I didn't open them up so the crevices in the corner and the face of the cylinder wall is going to be shaped based on port b. I lowered the angles of the roof just slightly pointing just below the spark plug. And the boost is still relatively small with it's angle pointing sharply up. I'll take pictures when I have everything apart.
Grubee engines are usually very good to begin with, and by adding a boost port you've effectively reduced the velocity greatly and these transfers don't have the wall thickness to create a nice smooth radius as that would require enlarging the track area, the best thing to do with these is correct the sidewall angle that's closest to the exh port to match the intake side, increase the roof angle to around 15 degrees and blend the back of the roof into the back wall for smoother flow and proper turbulence in the chamber, if by stuffing you mean you want to create that bump as in example b you will just create a choke point because you can't radius out the outside wall to retain the proper volume in the track now so as not to change the velocity from dropping again to where there will not be sufficient cylinder fill costing you power and being lean/hot running through out the range.
 
Grubee engines are usually very good to begin with, and by adding a boost port you've effectively reduced the velocity greatly and these transfers don't have the wall thickness to create a nice smooth radius as that would require enlarging the track area, the best thing to do with these is correct the sidewall angle that's closest to the exh port to match the intake side, increase the roof angle to around 15 degrees and blend the back of the roof into the back wall for smoother flow and proper turbulence in the chamber, if by stuffing you mean you want to create that bump as in example b you will just create a choke point because you can't radius out the outside wall to retain the proper volume in the track now so as not to change the velocity from dropping again to where there will not be sufficient cylinder fill costing you power and being lean/hot running through out the range.
I see what you are talking about. I Understand what you talking about even with crankcase volume which has lead me to do the anyways. Not yet. I have been debating whether or not to stuff the case but I guess I'm going to have to the theory that I think of is that of a restrictor plate and ventri or plenum velocity not so much volume. Which is why I lower the angle just. A little bit with the boost port shallow and. Steep not very wide though. Idk enough about the port itself to decide on the size. I do need to know where I can find the rubber tube they sell with these g2 reed set ups
 
Give I do have all over sided stuff for what I'm running. I am considering the volume and vuccum pressure.
 
You know I really need to fine a good replacement silicone intake coupler because this one fell apart I'm surprised the carb didn't fall off.
 
I can peel it apart like play dough
 

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