DIY cable making

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Methyl hydrate/methanol is a good flux to these steel cables (and most steels) for soldering, just get a yellow bottle of heet gas line antifreeze/water remover and add some just before throwing in the solder.
Will this work for stainless steel?
 
Really good looking job. I think a little cable frey inside the solder would help gripping and keep the cable from pulling straight out.
I like the jig, but how are you keeping the solder from falling through the hole completely? Another plate underneath with a small pin hole to allow the air to escape and solder to fill the cavity?
What type of solder eg: (60/40)? Any special flux?
I have seen a couple other methods shortening the carb end of the cable. Don't trust doing the carb end. If failure occurs, you'l have a bb dropping and being sucked into the intake.:eek: :oops:
I was thinking of using the brass cable nut/barrel and replacing the bulky Phillips screw with Allen set screw(s). Haven't found a perfect fit without a little filing / drilling. That's easy to do.;)
Really do like the looks of your end result.:) :cool:
 
I was thinking of using the brass cable nut/barrel and replacing the bulky Phillips screw with Allen set screw
I'm using a knarp (same thing) at the top on mine. Had to order it from France, and it was over priced at about £5 IIRC. I think it's good, it hasn't fallen off and it allows me to shorten the cable later and/or disassemble it for redesigns and regreasing.

I would have more confidence in a solid end like this not failing on long expeditions though, so maybe I should aim to try this after I think I have it all just right. :)
 


I watched all these but that way didn't work for me unfortunately

I found one showing the mold i made, very easy with 3 mm thick alloy and i think it was a 5.5 or 6 mm hole and 1.5 for the cable

Then i put the wire through the hole flaring the end of the cable

Flux in the hole and heated the solder into it, when it was hot enough you could see the flux drop (must release an air bubble) and bond

this is the one i found that worked for me with all the things i needed at my local hardware.
All the same result in the end

it will save a few cable i reckon! Very easy once the jig is made

 
Really good looking job. I think a little cable frey inside the solder would help gripping and keep the cable from pulling straight out.
I like the jig, but how are you keeping the solder from falling through the hole completely? Another plate underneath with a small pin hole to allow the air to escape and solder to fill the cavity?
What type of solder eg: (60/40)? Any special flux?
I have seen a couple other methods shortening the carb end of the cable. Don't trust doing the carb end. If failure occurs, you'l have a bb dropping and being sucked into the intake.:eek: :oops:
I was thinking of using the brass cable nut/barrel and replacing the bulky Phillips screw with Allen set screw(s). Haven't found a perfect fit without a little filing / drilling. That's easy to do.;)
Really do like the looks of your end result.:) :cool:

I used three pieces of flat alloy, only drill through the top 2 than drill the clamping bolts with it all locked together and your good to go. Check the top photo showing the pieces clamped together

use a way of clamping it when drilling so all your holes line up perfectly than bolt the clamp together, last use a center punch and drill the cable slot between the two top plates

when your done undo it a pry it apart
 
I watched quite a few videos on utube, their results varied in clean finished product. The ones where a 2 x 4 was used I don't know about that, but I guess in a pinch do what needs done.
I just want my cable shorter and cleaner looking. Every cable has been to long for every bike I have built. I don't like bikes with ape hangers or cruiser bars. I'm a mountain bike straight bars person.
 
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