DIY Wide Crank

Sitherus

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Joined
Apr 4, 2016
Messages
252
I looked around for just one side of the wide cranksets to clear my pull start, and found 1 result at mbrebel. It was reviewed on this site, on another thread as being made "dirt cheap". The price was 28 dollars plus 8 for shipping and, that was too high for a piece of metal, so I made my own. I made this video to show how its done so that others can do the same thing.
I weigh 245 lbs and I have stood on it and pedaled up a hill on it and it has maintained its shape.
 


Frankenstein

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Joined
Jun 24, 2016
Messages
5,078
I looked around for just one side of the wide cranksets to clear my pull start, and found 1 result at mbrebel. It was reviewed on this site, on another thread as being made "dirt cheap". The price was 28 dollars plus 8 for shipping and, that was too high for a piece of metal, so I made my own. I made this video to show how its done so that others can do the same thing.
I weigh 245 lbs and I have stood on it and pedaled up a hill on it and it has maintained its shape.
Thank goodness for something like this, I've never thought of them as objects that had to be bought, I knew it could be made, is this aluminum?
 

Frankenstein

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Jun 24, 2016
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5,078
Don't mind me. I am a Tool and Die Maker. Rocks are not in my tool kit. My anvil is a 250# er.
Tom from Rubicon
Your anvil doesn't fit in your tool kit, and even if it did good luck carrying it!

Every machine shop should have a good variety of rocks on hand for those bad days when you can't lift your anvil or just need to pelt somebody.
 

Tom from Rubicon

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Joined
Feb 9, 2016
Messages
325
And sour grapes you too Franky, I expect tool set would suit your sensibility's better.

Sitherus
Forgive my off topic remarks to our esteemed colleague Franky.
I guess it's a get er ' done thing. I have had some clearance problems in my Huffy-Davidson build.
For me it was the pedal crank snagging the transfer case.
My solution was to remove metal from the inside of the pedal crank arm.
 

Frankenstein

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Joined
Jun 24, 2016
Messages
5,078
And sour grapes you too Franky, I expect tool set would suit your sensibility's better.

Sitherus
Forgive my off topic remarks to our esteemed colleague Franky.
I guess it's a get er ' done thing. I have had some clearance problems in my Huffy-Davidson build.
For me it was the pedal crank snagging the transfer case.
My solution was to remove metal from the inside of the pedal crank arm.
My bike is currently down the pedals, and fitting a set in a place where they would even be comfortable is in an area that would not clear the pedals, and the place where they clear is either retarded for chain placement, or retarded for leg placement. I was almost to the point where I was going to skip the working pedals for ones that weren't linked, though that's a roadblock to my ultimate goal of titling and plating my bike as a moped in Pennsylvania. I may give this idea a shot since I am not super interested in buying new cranks just so I can cobble together a set of pedals that would be virtually useless (engine goes too fast for me to assist it in moving, and since I'm probably keeping the bt the autoclutch, pull start, and electric start again stand against actually needing pedals, since they couldn't start it in an emergency anyway.)
 
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S

Sitherus 2

Guest
Thank goodness for something like this, I've never thought of them as objects that had to be bought, I knew it could be made, is this aluminum?
Sorry it took so long for a reply I didn't think anyone would read this. After a few days I just stopped looking. (I cant log in because im at work.)

It was steel. I had aluminum but I've bent that before for a seat post and the extreme force of use bent it back because it was soft. I made sure it would't fail this time.
 
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