Frozen Clutch...Fixed It!

Discussion in 'Whizzer Motorized Bicycles' started by Hal the Elder, Jan 2, 2009.

  1. Hal the Elder

    Hal the Elder Member

    ('re gonna love this one!)

    Today I removed my hateful Auto-Clutch to do a little surfacing on the pads again with my Dremel drum sander. (My third time.) The contact areas are getting larger, which is good!

    Then I reassembled it and installed it really tight with my 17mm wrench, then began to slip on the rear belt.

    As I kept turning the wheel against the tightening belt to slip it in the sheave, suddenly the wheel wouldn't turn at all!

    Slipping off the belt, I found that the clutch was frozen against the arm!

    I removed the clutch again to inspect it, and found that there was NO CLEARANCE between the output pulley and the clutch arm, even with those 2 washers in place, because that cylindrical spacer inside the clutch was compressed from my previous over-tightening!

    This slightly reduced spacer length caused the pulley itself to tighten against the arm, preventing it from rotating.

    I gave it a temporary fix by adding another washer of the same thickness and bore as the 2 factory washers, and that gave it just enough clearance so it rotates freely now.

    What next with that clutch, I wonder?

    HAL the ELDER
    Last edited: Jan 2, 2009

  2. Kep1a

    Kep1a Guest

    Do not!!!! tighten that clutch bolt (the left hand thread one) more than 50 inch pounds or just enough to take out the free play. Use lock tight on the threads and let it set up before you start the motor. I also take my arm off and set it in my vice and peen the metal with a center punch to be sure it will not loosen up. Before you get in a bind make sure you have the metal shims and the brass stepped washer installed correctly.

    That pivot bolt must also allow the arm to float on the spring tension so it can float along with the shiv and its out of center nature or you may break spokes.

    Last edited by a moderator: Jan 2, 2009
  3. Hal the Elder

    Hal the Elder Member

    What Brass Stepped Washer?

    Thanks for the advice, KEP1A!

    I'll do what you (and Quenton, Motorbike Mike, and Kilroy) advise!

    I'm not aware of a brass stepped washer, however.

    50 INCH pounds? I must have torqued that left-handed bolt to 50 FOOT pounds!

    Here's a shot of my disassembled clutch:

    It's too bad that I had no information beforehand as to the critical torque requirements of the auto-clutch...I was always of the "red-face torque" persuasion! You know...turn the bolt or nut until you can't turn it any more, then give it another 1/4 turn!


    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Jan 3, 2009
  4. ren

    ren Guest

    Hi Hal, the brass stepped washer is between the large washer and the bearing on the bolt in your picture. Normally the bearing stays inside the hub and that is how sometimes the stepped washer cam come off the bolt. The larger side of the stepped washer goes against the large washer and the smaller side goes againts the bearing.

    good luck,
  5. Hal the Elder

    Hal the Elder Member

    Hey Ren:

    Yes, I saw that brass stepped washer when I opened the clutch the last time.

    I reattached the clutch with 50 Inch-Pounds of torque. (As interpolated from my torque wrench which is calibrated in Foot-Pounds)

  6. ohio frank

    ohio frank New Member

    i installed the clutch too tight also. i didn't wait for the loctite to set up. i tried to start the bike right after the installation. the first pump on the pedal to start was normal resistance. i had a rough time getting the pedal up to the top to try to start it. with the right handed bolt probably tightening up more. i have to disassemble and start over to get it to be free. this web site sure helps if a person can find info on what he needs. i am a manual person with working on all my motorcycles. somebody could make lots of money publishing a service manual for the whizzer or they could wake up the whizzer company and get them to do it. whizzer sent me the new clutch with no info. with my harley parts upgrades i always get a paper with instructions like a picture and torque specs and adjustment parameters. harley found that most people like to work on their bikes and when they market upgrades they put their reputation on the line if they don't put instructions in the box. enough said. are you listening whizzer. this is the 21st century.
  7. RdKryton

    RdKryton Active Member

    Hi Frank
    Actually they are listening. They are members of this forum. I have not heard anything for sure but they are aware of the servicing paperwork short comings and I believe they will address this problem. In the mean time we have some very knowledgeable people here that can help you.

    Is it spring yet? I wanna ride!!
  8. I'm suprised that someone at Whizzer hasn't scanned the manual and just posted it on the website. It's easy enough to do.
  9. RdKryton

    RdKryton Active Member

    I really don't believe they have a newer model manual to copy. This was discussed on the forum in another thread and I was left with the impression they were going to produce the correct manual. I may be wrong but I hope not. It would go a long way towards helping the many newer model Whizzer owners.

  10. ohio frank

    ohio frank New Member

    i found the inner bearing is bad and when i tighten the 19mm bolt it wants to freeze the pulley. i locktited the bolt without any torque and i want to try and start the whizzer tomorrow. i am getting a new bearing tomorrow also. i appreciate all the posts on this site as they are very helpful. i retired as a machine repairman and i enjoy making the whizzer to do what it is supposed to but, much better.