Whizzer Motor Removal 1999

I see the Bolt plugging the hole in the head is sticking out, That should be cut flush with the roof of the combustion chamber

You got the 24mm intake valve and the Westman cyl has bigger ports so I suggest getting the NE-5 high lift cam and lifters to take advantage of that,

What size carb did Paul sell ya?


.
I have a grinder and a hack saw :rolleyes: is there a preferred method to cutting down that bolt?
 
I saw a picture - in this thread - with a chrome battery cover, where do I get one of those? This also has different brake light/turn signal, and a rack....sweet! Not a big fan of the handlebars but this one looks well preserved.
For a chrome cover just get some aluminum tape 😆

You don't like those kinds of handlebars? I love mine
 

Attachments

  • 20230702_202332.jpg
    20230702_202332.jpg
    398.3 KB · Views: 51
  • 20230715_205106.jpg
    20230715_205106.jpg
    251 KB · Views: 48
  • 20230715_205414.jpg
    20230715_205414.jpg
    99.2 KB · Views: 57
  • 20230715_205212.jpg
    20230715_205212.jpg
    212.2 KB · Views: 47
I have a grinder and a hack saw :rolleyes: is there a preferred method to cutting down that bolt?


Mark the bolt where it needs to be cut, put a nut on the bolt so you cut the threads even. then cut it
Put the bolt back in the head and tighten it so it's at max depth, check height, it will still probably need to be grinded down about another thread or so to make it flush. Take the bolt out and grind it down a little more, Put the bolt back in and your done, It should of come out flush to the roof of the combustion chamber, Tighten the bolt
DSCF2495.JPG


Here's a Modification you should consider that will really wake up your engine performance and speeds
Shave the Head to make it High Compression

This info is for the Ambassador (Cruzzer) head only. Other Whizzer heads get shaved a different amount

Shave off that ledge, this shaves off a little over .100" making the head high compression
combustion chamber depth of the stock head is .465" shaved .100" it becomes .355" high compression
I shave .135" off my heads = .330" + .020" head gasket = .350"

No need to shave any more than .135" you can also shave only .040" - .060" for a mild improvement


DSCF2496.JPG

You can shave the head yourself if ya know how with basic tools -
Bench top belt sander , sand paper on plate glass & caliper measuring
Or it can be sent out

I'm not saying to run out and do this right away, something for you to consider if your not happy with stock performance
It's a great performance improvement over stock,
 
Mark the bolt where it needs to be cut, put a nut on the bolt so you cut the threads even. then cut it
Put the bolt back in the head and tighten it so it's at max depth, check height, it will still probably need to be grinded down about another thread or so to make it flush. Take the bolt out and grind it down a little more, Put the bolt back in and your done, It should of come out flush to the roof of the combustion chamber, Tighten the bolt
View attachment 199358

Here's a Modification you should consider that will really wake up your engine performance and speeds
Shave the Head to make it High Compression

This info is for the Ambassador (Cruzzer) head only. Other Whizzer heads get shaved a different amount

Shave off that ledge, this shaves off a little over .100" making the head high compression
combustion chamber depth of the stock head is .465" shaved .100" it becomes .355" high compression
I shave .135" off my heads = .330" + .020" head gasket = .350"

No need to shave any more than .135" you can also shave only .040" - .060" for a mild improvement


View attachment 199359
You can shave the head yourself if ya know how with basic tools -
Bench top belt sander , sand paper on plate glass & caliper measuring
Or it can be sent out

I'm not saying to run out and do this right away, something for you to consider if your not happy with stock performance
It's a great performance improvement over stock,
Wow, okay thank you. I have a friend who works at a tool company, I think he can shave that off for me ;-)
 
I have finally removed the motor.

Trying now to summarize things I could/should do based on the help from everyone here:
  1. Cut that head bolt accordingly
  2. Shave head for optimal compression
  3. Check the Piston Ring End Gap (PREG)
  4. Add the high lift NE-5 cam and lifters
  5. any other things to consider?
 

Attachments

  • 1999-motor1.jpg
    1999-motor1.jpg
    146.3 KB · Views: 57
  • 1999-motor2.jpg
    1999-motor2.jpg
    134.3 KB · Views: 59
I saw a picture - in this thread - with a chrome battery cover, where do I get one of those? This also has different brake light/turn signal, and a rack....sweet! Not a big fan of the handlebars but this one looks well preserved.
Although this is off topic, not sure where else to ask.... my WC-1 only has a left side rear view mirror. I see there is a place for one on the right. Did is come with only one? (my Dad gave this to me so I'm not sure if it had one when new). I'm sure I can get one for the right side.
www.whizzercruzzerparts.com Paul will have that stuff
 
Hi All, how many bolts shall be removed to remove this motor once and for all?
Next time
I suggest to mark the mounts to the frame and engine to the mounts with a black sharpie pen.
So when you reinstall it you can put the engine pack in the same position, It's a reference for easy alignment

Rear mount just remove the bolt to the frame

Take the front & bottom mount hardware off first then the rear mount so ya don't drop the engine
 
I have finally removed the motor.

Trying now to summarize things I could/should do based on the help from everyone here:
  1. Cut that head bolt accordingly
  2. Shave head for optimal compression
  3. Check the Piston Ring End Gap (PREG)
  4. Add the high lift NE-5 cam and lifters
  5. any other things to consider?
If you have the head shaved the bolt over the exhaust port will have to be shaved the same amount
Or else it might bottom out and you'll have a compression head gasket leak there

For whatever reason Taiwan's stinking thinking made the left rear head bolt hole over the exhaust port lower on the head
 
Back
Top