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Looks like you need more tension on the clutch belt than there is on it right now. Either that, or revisit the carb.
 
I had a whizzer that acted much the same. I think it was the clutch, combined with a bogging issue when i gave too much throttle.
 
I've tried all the positions on the needle jet. I've tried at least 4 carbs. I keep waiting for someone who's done all the things I've done and had the same problem and then fixed it by....
I guess I expect it to go at least 4 or 5mph,without peddling. It didn't do it with the original type clutch or the new set-up. Even after a new piston and rings, new valves, new cylinder head, new head gasket, advancing the timing. If someone else wants to try, your welcome to it...or its wall art or recycle
Thanks to all who have tried to help...
 
Daleice, at least two of us have suggested more tension on your primary belt. It is clearly not tight enough in the photos shown to transfer engine power to the auto clutch. The auto clutch moves up and down via the clutch arm, It is attached to the spring that should be pulling that arm as mutch upward as possible. That requires spring tension and when you put the spring on the arm and try to attach it to the frame above, it should be VERY difficult from the tension. We have found to over come that task is to hook that tough spring on the frame and clutch arm before inserting the clutch arm bolt in the housing and "forcing" the bolt into the hole pulling on the spring.

Until you tighten that belt and have no better results, all of the other suggestions are moot in my humble opinion and experience with all three of my modern Whizzers. Good luck.
 
with the centrifugal clutch from Paul, that spring is no longer used...
Well, my friend, I have the "Whizzer Paul" clutch on my 2005 "Gator" and it certainly does use the spring and it is essential to it working correctly. That is your problem I am afraid. Not sure who told you not to use it but whomever did, they made a mistake.
 
I'll look at it again but since I don't use the clutch lever now, what's the point? Its not connected to anything...
 
I'll look at it again but since I don't use the clutch lever now, what's the point? Its not connected to anything...
Not using the clutch lever (Arm) ? What to you have the clutch bolt hooked up to? Look at the belt tension on my bike. Of course you use the leaver just like you did with the slip clutch on the bike. Instead of the pulley going through the right side of the leaver, the auto clutch (and pulleys) bolt through that Arm and the spring pulls it up and tightens the belt.
 

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This is courtesy of Wrench when I was still using the slip clutch on my Gator:



"This is a pic of an auto clutch arm (notice the slot for the cable isn't there)
The hole spacing is the same for the manual clutch arm

Your bolt to mount the pulleys on the arm might be L/H threads the new clutch arm will have R/H threads with a set screw, so make sure Paul includes a bolt with your new clutch arm.

If Paul gives you the New Cruzzer clutch tension spring, don't use it
It's a different length, by just one coil, but it makes a difference and your clutch might not work right.
I tried the Cruzzer clutch tension spring on my Whizzer and it makes my auto clutch primary belt slip. It might have the same affect on a slip clutch. But IDK it might work.
To avoid any phantom issues don't use the Cruzzer clutch arm tension spring

Another thing, Grease the bushing in the case for the clutch arm mounting bolt
Washer spacers can be put in between the clutch arm and case if ya need better belt alignment or rear frame to belt clearance Also make sure your engine is mounted square"
 

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