back to the Whizzer

[DaleIce]

I got back to the Whizzer project, at long last. I found that I had a bad power feed wire to the coil. I replaced that and motor
started up on the first try. I had the new centrifugal clutch, that I had got from Paul, last summer, on and hoped for better results.
Pretty much the same as before. It ran well on the stand and went down my little hill but then just bogged down when I tried uphill riding.
We're talking a very gentle slope. On a whim, I removed the B&S muffler and it seemed a little better. I took the carb slide off and used the
fifth notch on the needle jet(closest to the tip).It had been on the fourth notch. Again, seemed just a tad better. I still couldn't ride it. Is there a pic somewhere of the side case off and the timing marks aligned in the "one tooth advanced" position? If I just happened to put it one tooth retarded instead, would it explain all of this un-ride-able condition? Would it start so easy but have no power at all?

 

[Risk Man]

Hard to see, but it appears your primary belt is not very tight. I also do not see any "tension" in the clutch spring. that spring should be very difficult to attach with the amount of tension it has. What is the exhaust pipe you have on their? (hard to see in the picture) you mention "B & S" muffler?

 

[DaleIce]

Since I no longer use the original clutch mechanism, there is no tension. Its now a centrifugal clutch.
Belt tightens up with speed. The Briggs & Stratton muffler was off a lawnmower...had it laying around.When
I got the bike someone had "steam punked" it with a bizarre bunch of parts. I adapted a corrugated stainless steel
pipe for the exhaust pipe. At the moment, there is no muffler. I installed a new piston and rings from Whizzer Paul. I lapped the new valves and fixed the valve seats. New bearings in the crankcase. I thought that I had set the timing gear to one tooth advanced, over stock. Now, 3yrs later, I'm not sure. The carb is a Chinese clone that someone recommended. Like I said, it starts on the first rotation but has no power with a rider on it. Yes, I'm 200lbs but it ought to go reasonably well. I'm about to turn loose of this project...it's in N.Calif.

 

[Wrench]

To advance the cam, move the cam timing dot one tooth counterclockwise

 

[Wrench]

Take that crankcase vent hose off the air filter and just vent into the atmosphere

 

[Risk Man]

Since I no longer use the original clutch mechanism, there is no tension. Its now a centrifugal clutch.
Belt tightens up with speed. The Briggs & Stratton muffler was off a lawnmower...had it laying around.When
I got the bike someone had "steam punked" it with a bizarre bunch of parts. I adapted a corrugated stainless steel
pipe for the exhaust pipe. At the moment, there is no muffler. I installed a new piston and rings from Whizzer Paul. I lapped the new valves and fixed the valve seats. New bearings in the crankcase. I thought that I had set the timing gear to one tooth advanced, over stock. Now, 3yrs later, I'm not sure. The carb is a Chinese clone that someone recommended. Like I said, it starts on the first rotation but has no power with a rider on it. Yes, I'm 200lbs but it ought to go reasonably well. I'm about to turn loose of this project...it's in N.Calif.

The clutch arm for the Auto Clutch still uses the spring under tension to properly put the auto clutch / belt in the proper tension in order for the clutch to function properly.

 

[Wrench]

What size carb is it and what size main jet does it have

 

[DaleIce]

To advance the cam, move the cam timing dot one tooth counterclockwise

I believe that is what I did. Have to take it all apart to verify...

 

[Wrench]

fixed the valve seats.

 

[Wrench]

I believe that is what I did. Have to take it all apart to verify...

Just need to drain the oil & take the RH side cover off
Remove front belt and S/P so ya can turn the engine by hand