GEBE torque strap



augidog said:
so let me get this straight...that lil strap is the only thing the gebe uses to brace against torque?

Not sure what 'strap' you're referring to. It's a little difficult to see in the pics, but there is a brace that is horizontally flat that attaches to the fender connection on the rear down tube. Make sense? And then there are the 'legs', one on each side, that attach to the rear drop outs.

As far as elitist stuff goes, I couldn't care less about such people. My bikes are all utilitarian, they serve MY purposes, I couldn't give a damn what other people think.

My road bicycle looks rough. But I can't count how many times I've put my legs into it and blasted past people dressed like they were in the Tour de France like they were standing still. Yeah... nice gear/equip, too bad it doesn't make you ride faster.....
that's the one...but i realized all it really has to resist is a bit of pull, so i can see how it does just fine.

it sure does look like a solid build, the more rack-mounts i see the more i appreciate the application.
One ?

I also bolted on a Golden Eagle, but found I had to move the engine more upright, to get more gas in tank. As it was, tank would only be half full, so moving it more upright helped. Would like to reverse the tank but it seems to be a tough change..
The strap used to be a thinner guage, GEBE made them thicker last year.


I was having to curl them around, making sure no bend hit the middle of the holes, so then GEBE made those 1" inch 90 degree brackets, which attach to the fender cross post.


Finally, they started only having ONE hole instead of 4 on the end that attaches to the bike, with 4 on the other end to adapt to different bike installations.

That is one good thing, they make little changes to make it easier and better.
I ran out to the shop and got a couple of the NEW straps, note one hole on the end attaching to the bike.


And here are those elbows, which work great when you have to curl them around to fit on the rear fender attachment peice.


btw: I agree with Hive on making it more vertical. I leaned them back at first, especially to clear those super-sized gel seats.

But having them more upright also allows you to more easily reach back and crank them while still in the saddle.

That works out good when easing down a sidewalk peddling, then cranking and making a quick dignified exit.
But I can't count how many times I've put my legs into it and blasted past people dressed like they were in the Tour de France like they were standing still.

I always claim I could pass Lance Armstrong, going uphill in the Alps, smoking a cigar......
Strap on GEBE kits

I will attempt to load a pic, but...

I asked GEBE to supply two straps, as I calculated the distance from the seat lock to wheel top was quite a bit longer than their strap lengths. The angle was 90 degrees off, so had to bend (used vise and large Crescent Wrench - leverage is needed to bend). Hooked up as you see, but needed to drill couple holes to set overall length. See the pics, if we are lucky.

Zip tie for insurance

Zip ties are the 21st century duct tape, I carry a few in my road kit, with spare tube/belt/drive shaft.

As insurance, in case the front brace snaps off where the hole is drilled, (because of a pot hole or miles of those road ridges on the shoulder), I put two long zip ties together, to prevent the engine from ever tilting back.


When a front brace fails, you don't know it until the engine falls backward, pulling the throttle cable to FULL BLAST, a panic situation if it happens at the wrong time.


The above picture is a bike I built for a guy last week, you can put the strap in a vise, twist it 90 degrees, bore out the hole a little wider, then attach it to the saddle bolt, instead of the frame.
I found that the strap supplied was rather soft. It was also too short for the oddball bike I put the engine on at first, but anyway....

If you've got access to a welding torch, get yourself some 4130 steel the same size, drill the holes where you need them, and then HEAT IT orange and bend it how you want. When it cools, it will be just as stiff and strong as before. ....4130 steel (even the same size) will be a lot stiffer but it will lose a lot of strength if you bend it cold.

Alternately, you might cut the strap to length, drill your holes and take the bike and strap around to a local dingy muffler shop and offer them a few bucks to heat and bend it for you.