V 35
Member
Here's my advice ... Mark which directions bends go, it gets confusing when the pipe is off the bike. Chalk works good, takes the heat, or draw a sketch . Next anneal the pipe
where the bends go, a propane torch works good, you don't need to get the steel red hot,
just * real * hot, slow cooling is the secret, play torch over areas for 20 minutes, increasing the cool down time, and shortening the heating time. Slow cooled metal softens, and becomes easier to bend without cracking. The Exhaust flange needs to be held rigid for bending, * do not bend on bike ! * Hold in vice, or bolt down to wood.
Heat pipe until it just begins to glow, than bend, my radius was too tight, pipe hit bottom bracket, decreased radius, [ pulled up on pipe ] let cool, reheated, and used pipe wrench to persuade pipe to go a bit more right, by bending left. The re-bent pipe fit perfectly, solving the problem of crank interference, and bottom bracket clearance.
By all means, add a hardware store pipe strap to your exhaust to prevent vibration.
Baby your exhaust studs, Tighten until snug, use a second nut to lock threads,
LocTite won't take the heat. Let pipe heat up, and cool down a dozon times, than
snug down threads, and add jam nuts. I wouldn't screw with the exhaust flange, you'll end up with an ill fitting exhaust, and a power robbing restriction.
where the bends go, a propane torch works good, you don't need to get the steel red hot,
just * real * hot, slow cooling is the secret, play torch over areas for 20 minutes, increasing the cool down time, and shortening the heating time. Slow cooled metal softens, and becomes easier to bend without cracking. The Exhaust flange needs to be held rigid for bending, * do not bend on bike ! * Hold in vice, or bolt down to wood.
Heat pipe until it just begins to glow, than bend, my radius was too tight, pipe hit bottom bracket, decreased radius, [ pulled up on pipe ] let cool, reheated, and used pipe wrench to persuade pipe to go a bit more right, by bending left. The re-bent pipe fit perfectly, solving the problem of crank interference, and bottom bracket clearance.
By all means, add a hardware store pipe strap to your exhaust to prevent vibration.
Baby your exhaust studs, Tighten until snug, use a second nut to lock threads,
LocTite won't take the heat. Let pipe heat up, and cool down a dozon times, than
snug down threads, and add jam nuts. I wouldn't screw with the exhaust flange, you'll end up with an ill fitting exhaust, and a power robbing restriction.
why do i quench silver in hydrochloric acid to anneal it? and why doesnt copper worry whether its quenched or slowly cooled, either way, it still anneals?
