No clue what I'm doing... No start...I'm back and I need help to make it right.

[Chainlube]

Also... Have you ever seen one of these I just got it and want to get it running the kid that sold it to me thought it to be blown.. But it started so I don't think that's what the problem. Is I'm cleaning it as we speak so I can take and tear it down and relube everything. Any ideas on what it is or maybe what I should plan on.

Looks like a CAG engine with a saw jug, so it will be a piston port. Post a couple more pictures of it when you take it apart and I'll let you know.

 

[Wtg78]

Ok so here I am again... Im in need of help. Got my bike running back when and everything has been good until just recent. The engine won't start. I've checked and have all 3things in check spark, fuel, air. Now I'm clueless again trying to figure it out. I did notice there was a bit of Gas on a slow drip coming from the exhaust. And the last time I tried to start it it acted like it was gonna start then locked up on me I've checked the piston and what not and it looks good so can someone help me once again.

 

[Wtg78]

Looks like a CAG engine with a saw jug, so it will be a piston port. Post a couple more pictures of it when you take it apart and I'll let you know.

I got that to run np... Now I'm just needing my phantom taken care of again. I can't get the damn thing to start and have all 3 necessities

 

[Wtg78]

Make sure no grease gets on those clutch pads or it will slip

I got a question for you. I have totally went through the engine twice I have put a new CDI a new everything pretty much and I'm still having problems starting this thing it'll start puttering like it wants to start for a second but then my wheels lock up I don't think it's the clutch because I adjusted that clutch perfectly I'm pretty sure but I'm getting perfect fuel I'm getting electric so I got spark fuel and there's no leaks so it's not air so what could it be keeping this thing from going

 

[Chainlube]

I got a question for you. I have totally went through the engine twice I have put a new CDI a new everything pretty much and I'm still having problems starting this thing it'll start puttering like it wants to start for a second but then my wheels lock up I don't think it's the clutch because I adjusted that clutch perfectly I'm pretty sure but I'm getting perfect fuel I'm getting electric so I got spark fuel and there's no leaks so it's not air so what could it be keeping this thing from going

Some new engine need a lot of pedaling to get them to run for the first time, after that they seem to start ok.

 

[Wtg78]

Some new engine need a lot of pedaling to get them to run for the first time, after that they seem to start ok.

So yes... I can see that butt this engine has been rode almost 150 MI. Now for the break in... And I think I may have figured it out I kept thinking it was the piston catching in the engine meaning it was toast but everytime I've taken it off the thing is beautiful inside not a scratch. So I asked myself what have a changed or made different and.. Nothing.. But then I lightbulbed the cnc sprocket had kept slipping even with the rubber in it and it was ripping the spokes straight out so I removed it from the rim and went back to the rag joints. So I looked down and I'm pretty sure that the sprocket isn't straight enough to support the chain while running

 

[Wtg78]

So I'm pretty sure it was slipping off the sprocket so I'm trying to straighten that problem out cause it is possible right?

 

[Deleted member 33057]

So I'm pretty sure it was slipping off the sprocket so I'm trying to straighten that problem out cause it is possible right?

Yes...it's important to get the rear sprocket to be in line with the front sprocket AND spin true...no wobble.

The wobble can be fixed easier than alignment with the front sprocket.
Sprocket alignment is another separate issue than sprocket wobble.
Both issues must be correct for a safe and reliable motorized bicycle.

Rear sprocket wobble....
Once the rag joint is installed and bolts snugged down, you can use additional sprocket tapping and tightening/loosening of the bolts to work the sprocket in to spinning true.
This can be accomplished more easily if the wheel is off the bike and on a stand where you can keep spinning the wheel by hand as you work it true. The sprocket must spin in a true circle relative to the wheel axle before fixing left right wobble.

None of the bolts should be so tight that the metal plates or the rubber joint is mashed to the point of being deformed. Be sure upon installation.... the rag joint bolts and nuts are grease free and a fair amount of blue locktite is used.

The rear sprocket can be out 2 ways...not spin in a perfect circle relative to the wheel axle AND wobble left to right. You want the sprocket to spin with no left right wobble as well as spinning in a concentric circle....
First step....the sprocket may need to be tapped with a rubber mallet on the teeth points to get the sprocket to spin round before adjusting the bolts to cure left right wobble.

There's many ways to do this... I use a piece of wire attached to my wheel stand as an indicator. I bend the wire where its very close at the points of the sprocket teeth and spin the wheel. Watch the space from the top of the sprocket teeth to the wire pointer. You should be able to lightly tap on the teeth to move the sprocket so when you spin the wheel the space from wire to teeth remains the same. When its spinning true the space from wire to teeth will remain exactly the same.

Once it's spinning correct this way bend the wire where the wire end is just about touching the sprocket side right below the teeth. Spin the wheel and see the left right wobble. Use the bolts to work the sprocket to spin where there's no left right wobble. The point of the wire should be about 1MM away from the sprocket just below the teeth when done and the space from sprocket side to wire point remains constant... or as close as possible... when you spin the wheel.

Once all this is correct you can move on to chain alignment.