How To Mount The RS EHO 33CC Engine On A Flat Surface?

  • Thread starter Deleted Member 4613
  • Start date
There's two allen screws where I was alluding to in the pics. Just get the same thing, but longer (as long as you need), and two nuts that screw on you'll be able to attach it to something then. At least I don't see why not.

I actually had to cut the bottom of the engine for it to even fit in the mount. Had I realized what I was doing, I would have taken my time in cutting it off to use that as a type of mount point for my already made plate. Just slide a piece of rubber/leather..

I really should just get the longer screws and spacer and be done with it... but my rims haven't crapped out yet, so why not let it ride? :whistle:
 
I meant the two threaded engine holes on the bottom plus the cvt holes.

Good luck with the build then, I wouldn't plan on the 2 holes on the bottom of the shroud holding much though. They are kinda flimsy tabs not meant for it, I think you'll see what I mean when you see them.
 
No, not the shroud holes but the threaded holes in the engine under the engine. These are the ones I will use.
 
Righto and just to be be clear, I was referring to the flywheel shroud and the threaded holes shown here in red.

RS bottom.jpg

You'll have yours in hand soon enough to judge all that for yourself, I'm sure.
Good luck and good riding.
 
Last edited:
If I use the threaded holes, I also use the cvt mounting holes. Like you say, I will make a judgement after receiving the engine. At least I now have aome idea of the possibilities. Thanks.
 
im dubious of the two(the 25 has 3!!!) holes on the underside.

why? cus i have a lil subu 25 that i cant use now cus they broke!

i sorta knew they would anyway. call it experience with this stuff.

theres the two on the shroud. these are fine in themselves still, but the shroud itself then cracked. and the third hole was on the sump cover. that broke.

vibration+ alloy = breakages.

the four holes on the shroud, that are parallel to the shaft, where a brushcutter would normally bolt up, are best. though the shrouds only attached to the engine by three screws anyway...so theres the weak point. shrouds DO BREAK! holding the engine to the frame with m16 hi tensile bolts is pointless if the engine isnt held together just as well!

just remember that these engines ARENT held rigidly when used in the intended manner - as a hand held lawn implement.
so any vibration is irrelevant except to the hands of the user. as soon as theyre strapped down tight, there was the previously mentioned vibration, along with torque reactions, twisting forces, and any misalignment issues...

on the same topic... if someone nice sent me a sample sump from the 35 i would cast one up with mounts :) im already making the mold for the rocker cover so it can have a mount too (off a 25 though) :) (head steady, like all good engines have)

as it is, im not spending 400 dollars on buying one just to make a new sump pan... hondas are even more here... :'(

hence the requirement of "someone nice" :)

the BEST (and easiest) method would be to remove the sump pan. tap out the 4 bolt holes for the next thread size up. find longer bolts...20/30mm more. get some steel tube and cut four spacers. replace sump pan with the longer bolts, and spacers as "washers".
now its a fairly easy task to drill four holes in a piece of plate in the right spots. have the holes big enough to go over the spacers. weld spacers to plate. the plate is now solid and the chances of breaking anything are minimal.

i havent done it this way myself cus the shroud broke... and until my neeew tig arrives... no fixy!
 
Last edited:
Headmess, you bring up a good point, vibration. I'll take what you say into consideration, but I am planning to use the mounting holes on the cvt also which are very substantial and are rubber insulated. I'll also look at the clutch face mounting holes where the cvt will bolt up to.
 
my tig arrived :)

vibration is the killer of many a fine engine :(

anyway. i never actually welded alloy before, it seems fairly easy though so far, so ill post a pic or two of my abortions in a few days :)

meanwhile... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eaSHo9qgNt8
 
Last edited:
I have the motor now and after studying my options, I have decided to use six mounting points, all with rubber cushions, 4 on the motor, and two on the cvt. On the motor, I will use an "L" bracket, mating to two horizontal holes on the clutch shroud, and two threaded studs into the oil case, and then two "L" brackets connected to bolt holes on the CVT. There are no really strong bolting points on the bottom of the motor, so I have to use as many fastening points as possible, all shock mounted. I also sit the motor down on rubber cushions.
 
Back
Top