Carby Idle getting lower and lower

[Street Ryderz]

Z8C, but I'm getting a B7HS / B7HIX (Is the iridium any better?)

The b7hs will be better,The b7hix gets praise from KC but then he doesn't actually tune engines,I dont see any differance that would make me want to pay 2 x as much LOL.I think Crassius has it pegged your clutch may be grabing a little and causing the issue. A really cold plug can stumble at idle but doesn't seem to be the case here.

 

[Vikingimike01]

What does it mean the clutch is grabbing? Is it not pulled enough? Do I need to adjust it so I can pull it more?

I may have gotten some chain lube thingy on the clutch pads also...

Other thing: When I'm stopped, I get off the bike, and the clutch is pulled. It wants to go forward. It does go forward. I have to hold onto the handlebars and maybe even pull the front brakes a bit so it doesn't roll away. But the clutch is almost adjusted so it barely grabs the engine when I'm not pulling the clutch arm.. For example I let it out (Almost from a full stop) rev it and it will slowly start me, but also it doesn't instantly launch me just a nice start, and the engine can be heard slowing down slowly. So not sure what I should do with the clutch.

 

[crassius]

adjust cable/clutch following steps in many threads here - It needs to be totally free spinning at lock point on hand lever - also if grease is on pads, take them out and wash with gas or soap & water

 

[Vikingimike01]

Alright, I'll wash pads, though I don't know how to get them off.

I have adjusted the cable at the arm a bit. Now if I pull the arm in just a millimeter, the engine lets go. BUT. It's still grabbing or something....
It has gotten 1000 times better, because now it does not take 10 seconds, but a minute or more. Hardly slows down. But if I pull the clutch in more than where the pin is holding it, the thing does not grab. But as I said again, 1 millimeter pull and the thing almost fully lets go.

Could the chain lube cause it to catch or anything? It says it's a degreaser also.

 

[crassius]

sounds like you're adjusting backwards - follow all steps

pads should just pull out (sometimes they fall out by themselves)

 

[Vikingimike01]

What do you mean by adjusting backwards? What steps do I follow?

I was making the clutch cable tighter, and can't really make it any tighter.
There is that little thing on the clutch arm that you can spin to tighten the cable, that has an other spinny thingy to hold it.
I was screwing that OUT.

 

[crassius]

there are 100s of threads here about how to adjust

first, unfasten cable and adjust flower nut so that arm is close to pointing straight back
next, hook up cable and adjust until there is just a tiny bit of slack
next, lock hand lever and adjust flower nut until turning back wheel just barely tries to turn motor, then back flower nut off a notch or two
next, recheck cable slack

 

[Vikingimike01]

Thank you, I have done the exact same thing. I need to adjust it a bit more, but it's fine.
The problems I was having in this thread are now fixed, thanks everyone!

 

[Vikingimike01]

ACTUALLY. Now speaking. I am having issues similar to before. It's nothing to do with idle though.

My engine is making weird sounds- like pre detonation, or 4 stroking. Not sure wich.

Alright so- Let's split the bike's revs to 0-5 levels. 0 being low idle speed maybe 5 km/h, 5 being 50km/h.
I get weird, very loud noises at level 0, 3, 5. It's instead of the normal bwwwwwwt it's like a brrrap brrrrap brrrap but 2x louder than normal.
Also get this at almost all levels when speed and throttle is constant, or very very little acceleration. Not getting this when accelerating.


Mods once again: Banana pipe, and 60mm mesh air filter, held on by a 28" road bike inner tube.

If I pull choke in just a bit it just gets worse. As engine heats up (20mins of riding) it gets louder.

 

[crassius]

might just be resonance in muffler - try the original muffler and see