Break In Looking for tips, New Build

Alright, The Carb should be seated well since I just switched it and added Teflon tape since the Nt had those stupid gaps. I will pick up some carb cleaner if I don't have any and try that. I need to go through and double check everything is tight anyway.
 
On any fresh build its always a good idea to double check every bolt real quick after each ride once the motor cools off. You'd be surprised (or not) at how much can come loose. Had the plug come out like 4 times, lost 3 mounting bolts, had 2/3 of the sprocket bolts back out, almost lost the exhaust once, and on and on until everything that could fall off fell off and got resecured.
 
Lol, yea. Well I think I found a big culprit for the issues. I was checking the plug again and noticed it was darker....then noticed one of the 3 prongs was almost if not touching the center pin. So I just picked up 3 ngk b6hs (always good to have spares) and a gap tool. Isn't the recommended gap on them around .28? I guess we shall see if this was the root of the issues when I get home. Until then it's taco Time, lol.
 
Another thing you can use is a unlit propane torch. It works great for leak detection. I usually find that these intake leaks cause a high rather than a low idle, and the idle dies down when the propane is applied to the leak.

The loose head along with the extra oil was probably what was causing the air fuel lean condition. Loose head sucking air and robbing compression causing poor performance on the hills, and with more oil in the mix their is less fuel to air ratio causing a touch of a lean condition. Make sure the exhaust is tight as well. Air can also enter the chamber here to add to a lean condition.

Now that you have addressed that move the needle back up to it's original position or even try it at the top. I'm sure it will idle better. I don't know what elevation you are at, but it is very unusual for the stock carbs on these bikes even at sea level to run lean without there being another issue besides needle clip position.

Also quite often a new engine will tend to run hot due to things just being tight and needing a little time to find their spot and loosen up a little.
Have you done a compression test?
 
OK So I searched and read that .26 to .28 is the best gap for the B6HS so I gapped it to .27 and have it installed, I will test tomorrow as its late and don't wanna P' off the neighbors with my chainsaw on wheels as my one neighbor calls it(he doesn't mind though he finds it interesting). I did go through and thoroughly check that everything was tight aside from the sprocket bolts which I will do tomorrow before testing with the new plug. I will also be looking into replacing that with a hub style sprocket once I decide on a Gear ratio.
In regards to elevation I am near St Louis and the elevation is around 600 ft.

As far as compression test, I have no idea what that is or how it's done.
 
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A compression test is a fairly easy way to diagnose how much compression an engine is making (or it's a great way to measure how much leakage the motor has. Either way)
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You need 4 things for a motor to run: fuel, air, spark, and compression.

Compression is exactly what it sounds like, it's the measure of the engine's ability to compress the fuel-air mixture without losing much of the mix in the process. On these motors, the main areas of compression loss are the head gasket, base gasket, and piston rings.

Testing it is straight forward and simple once you get a compression testing gauge (you can loan this from autozone, orileys or most other autoparts stores). You simply remove the sparkplug, screw in the tester's hose, and kickstart the motor a few times.

 
Ran it for a few min just now during a break in the rain, lol. Went from 90's to 70's and rain... typical St Louis, lol. Anyway with the ngk it seems to be running a lil better still can't quite get enough power for the hills but I am thinking maybe I should take it somewhere flatter to get some break-in run time like a school parking lot or a flatter section of the city. I dunno if this will work but I took a quick vid of idle and throttle with clutch in.

Link
 
Overall the motor sounds good at idle and during the light revs. The lack of torque is a fairly common complaint when these motors are stock and to some extent even when modified. It's the general nature of the 2 stroke beast, they rev higher/faster, typically have more hp/torque than the equivalent 4 stroke but the power comes on and leaves within a very narrow powerband (usually 6.5-7.5k rpm, but that is purely pipe and intake runner dependant). Whereas a 4 stroke will have lower peak numbers but that power is usable over most of its rev range.

The biggest "single bolt-on" improvement that can be made to these bikes is throwing on a decent expansion chamber. It's not unheard of to gain 1hp or more when putting on something like an MZ65, even the fairly craptastic zeda88/cdh66 expansion chamber should be good for about .5 hp. The downside to this is without an additional silencer the bike will be stupid loud.

For me the combo of an mz65 ($75 used) and a generic silencer ($20 - Amazon) made my bike feel like I strapped on a different engine altogether.

If you have a dremel (or equivalent) the best thing you can do for these motors is clean up the intake, exhaust and transfers of any casting junk that is left in from the factory. No need to grab a timing wheel or anything like that, just simply remove the flashing/sharp edges. Anything that would impede the smooth flow of air should be ground down and smoothed out with the exception of the surface roughness of the intake, leave that alone for the best flow of air/fuel into the motor. This alone can gain a 25-50% power bump over bone stock depending on the motor.

Matching the gaskets to the openings can also make a fairly large difference, it's not uncommon to have the intake or exhaust gasket partially block the opening.

Some people have noticed a nice increase in lowend torque using a longer intake runner (heater hose works beautifully for this) of 6-9in. This is a finicky process that requires tons of testing to determine what length works best on your setup. Basically, just find a bit of tube to clamp your carb to then clamp the hose to that and the intake. Start long and slowly trim it back until the torque increase is where you want it. The 2 stroke tuners handbook says that it should feel almost like when you "get on the pipe" with an expansion chamber but at a lower rpm, however, with these small motors, it will be far less obvious than that.
 
Ran it for a few min just now during a break in the rain, lol. Went from 90's to 70's and rain... typical St Louis, lol. Anyway with the ngk it seems to be running a lil better still can't quite get enough power for the hills but I am thinking maybe I should take it somewhere flatter to get some break-in run time like a school parking lot or a flatter section of the city. I dunno if this will work but I took a quick vid of idle and throttle with clutch in.

Link
The cylinder you have on that engine is a well designed cylinder. Is has partitioned transfer ports that I would just leave alone because they direct the fuel charge towards the intake for more efficient combustion. The exhaust could use the partition in it removed, but little is needed in altering the size or shape other than partition removal and slightly raising the top of the port however doing this is not going to make a whole lot if difference due to the already advanced design. It's not going to make any noticeable difference in hill climbing. The same goes for the intake port nothing needed here.. These cylinders were well thought out. They have a 40mm intake so the gasket here is already matched. A pipe will wake up the engine considerably along with a 6cc after market head so in seeking more power these are the bolt on improvements I would suggest.. Did you move the clip on the carb needle to the top notch?
 
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I have a expansion exhaust but it has a small muffler, I did not move the needle yet it's on 2nd down but I will do that next. I have a copper head gasket ordered, next in my que is the hub style sprocket then probably head after that.
 
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