Motor mount planning, need input, take 2
- Thread starter PsychDoc
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PsychDoc
Active Member
Engine is decided Honda gc160- the muffler clamp? parts are to simply prop up the engine. The pressure washer plate could be cut to size maybe? Any thoughts?
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gary55
Well-Known Member
I think I would use a piece of 1/4" plate welded the full length of the horizontal portion and 2 to 3 inches up the seat and down tube. Then weld a 1/4" plate on top of it and at the seat and down tube for the engine mount. Then I would gusset the mount plate each side front and rear to the plate below it to prevent any flex as with a manual clutch and that much engine it is going to want to twist itself out of the frame. A third mount high on the seat tube might not be a bad idea either.
gary55
Well-Known Member
Something similar to the mount on the Phat Moto, but beefier with gussets and a high mount.
PsychDoc
Active Member
I think that will be the way to go. Now I might have to learn to weld, or find a new friend who can weld...
I think I can bring the engine up a couple inches, that will help with routing pedal side chain. But I want to keep it as low as I can - center of gravity and all.
Old Busted Hotness
Well-Known Member
1/4 inch is overkill. 1/8 will be more than adequate if it's properly braced.
Mount the carb and exhaust as well as the transmission before you start cutting, it'll save you from having nasty surprises later.
Mount the carb and exhaust as well as the transmission before you start cutting, it'll save you from having nasty surprises later.
FNTPuck
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For strength, instead of just welding the plate directly to the frame and relying on just the edges and gussets, I used a 1" square tube welded across the bottom of the frame then a 1/4" plate on top welded directly to that (technically 2x 1/8" plates stacked since I was out of 1/4", top one slightly larger so I can weld them together along the edges). 1/8" would likely be enough for the GC160, but I went 1/4" for the bigger motor + torque converter since its hits everything really hard when you get on it.
I also recommend top brace from the motor to the crossbar or somewhere on the frame as well. In my case with just the bottom 4 mount bolts the motor will visibly try to twist the frame on load if you look at it from the top, but a top mount will stop it.
I also recommend top brace from the motor to the crossbar or somewhere on the frame as well. In my case with just the bottom 4 mount bolts the motor will visibly try to twist the frame on load if you look at it from the top, but a top mount will stop it.
gary55
Well-Known Member
Like the square tube idea spreading the welded surface out or using 2 1/8" pieces full height to mount plate welded 1" apart. As far as 1/4" being over kill I disagree. He is talking about using a manual clutch so 1/8" being "likely" good enough isn't good enough for me. I will build a little stronger then necessary so likely becomes absolutely. The bike is going to have plenty of power so a little added weight at the point of most stress isn't going to slow it down. Just make it last longer. High mount for sure.
PsychDoc
Active Member
Ok, here we go. First allow me to express my gratitude for each of your thoughts. Without counsel purposes are disappointed: but in the multitude of counsellers they are established.
Now then, I spent a little time in the CAD lab. Here is what I’m thinking. The first pic- the engine is resting, rather precariously, on two hunks of aluminum tube. Just over one inch square tube- this puts the plate just below the bottom bracket (that’s what that is right?) thinking I don’t want over heat and possibly warp that. Third shot, basically the space that will be filled- two pieces of 1/8 on either side of the seat tube across that distance should do nicely. I have plans fo that space I shall discuss next slide. last photo is cad madel mock-up of the engine- there is some, not much, room to move forward and aft.
Now then, I spent a little time in the CAD lab. Here is what I’m thinking. The first pic- the engine is resting, rather precariously, on two hunks of aluminum tube. Just over one inch square tube- this puts the plate just below the bottom bracket (that’s what that is right?) thinking I don’t want over heat and possibly warp that. Third shot, basically the space that will be filled- two pieces of 1/8 on either side of the seat tube across that distance should do nicely. I have plans fo that space I shall discuss next slide. last photo is cad madel mock-up of the engine- there is some, not much, room to move forward and aft.
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PsychDoc
Active Member
Now for the hard part... the space between the PTO and the rear sprocket. I have been vacillating between a CVT ala tav2 and the 3D manual clutch (which turned into quite a little dust up
) so- the two inch space under the mounting plate- seems I could put a jackshaft down there. Maybe a couple flange bearings on either side? So off the trans down to the shaft then back.
My CAD skills are limited so I went with tape and tongue depressors. Does this make any sense? I think the idea has merit.
) so- the two inch space under the mounting plate- seems I could put a jackshaft down there. Maybe a couple flange bearings on either side? So off the trans down to the shaft then back. My CAD skills are limited so I went with tape and tongue depressors. Does this make any sense? I think the idea has merit.
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