I found that the bike handled better when chain tensioner is on slack side . When I tried pushing the chain tight, reactive torque
reared its ugly head, the bike was a [ female dog ] to pedal, and you almost had to ride side saddle to go straight.
So here I am, spent a bunch of time and money on an ill handling beast that Wonder Warthog would have a hard time pedaling,.
the torque of a slot car, the noise of a chainsaw, man what a bumber ! Gave up for couple days, tried no tensioner, scared me,
but the bike went straight, and pedaled easier . Wound up creating my [ not recommended ] gusseted idler, which used a piece
of 1" x 1/8 " steel strapping brazed to rear wheelstays, and a second piece bolted to gusset. The tension roller lifts the chain,
a light spring provides some pull . Thought I was so smart ! Bolt loosened on a long ride, roller met spokes, not a recommended
way to go. Fastening tensioner to seat post [ ahead of wheel ] is inefficent, but safer . I currently use a piece of slotted strapping,
brazed parallel with chainpath to support roller . If there is a fubar like a roller bearing shredding, the roller flopping around, hitting
the spokes, would be hit downward, and away from the spokes. A spring loaded ' lift ' draws roller into spokes.