Need Auto Clutch Help

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MVC-001S.JPGMVC-002S.JPGMVC-003S.JPGMVC-011S.JPGMVC-012S.JPGMVC-013S.JPGHi Klinde,


Just keep a close watch on the bearing sleeve, as when it "destructs", it will eat the $60.00 needle bearing, and lock the clutch up. Symptoms of problems may start with the bike failing to start because the one-way needle bearing no longer engaging.

Another classic idea concerns the seal, why not move it to the inside to stop the grease from getting on the shoes.

I am attaching several pictures so that you may see what fails in a short amount of time. Several of the pictures are from the latest clutch from Taiwan, and you can see the tool marks on the bearing sleeve. Ask any expert [racie35]what happens when you run HIGH speed needle bearings on a soft rough shaft. Sadly the latest from Taiwan can't be upgraded, as the hub has been cut back to allow the mounting bolt to recess inside the hub. Because the hub is cut back it doesn't leave any surface to press on a new hardened sleeve. The pictures will also show the necessary bearing sleeve that must be modified to fit [a machine shop process]the earlier rebuild-able clutches. Please note the picture with the earlier hub closeup and you can see the surface needed to press on a new sleeve, as it stops about 8 MM short of the end.

I guess these actual photos, and a few comments will help others in avoiding wasting their money. So far the average life of the new clutch is approx. 400 miles [not bad about $.50 per mile before replacement]. The 400 mile number was an average life span of the 11 Taiwan clutches sent to me for upgrading [sadly they can't be repaired]. I do know for sure the quality will vary greatly form Taiwan, and some will last longer or shorter than others.

Hope this information is helpful, and if anyone wants the part numbers of the, one-way needle bearing, bearing sleeve what needs to be done to it. I will gladly supply the information if anyone wants to have their own local machine shop do the work, just remember the latest versions are exempt for re-building [can't be fixed for a reasonable amount].

Have fun,
 
Hey Quenton. Just to let everyone know there are not many people on this earth that is willing to talk and help you through problems with anything mechanical without charging you a fee. Quenton helped me when I was new to these whizzers over 12 years ago when they were reproduced and never charged for his time and would usually talk as long as i needed to. If you left needed parts he would offer to sell you them for very competitive price most of the time cheaper and I did not have to research and risk buying something that might not be as described. Quenton always told it the way it is, it might not be what I wanted to hear but it is what it is. He does not sugar coat anything. If its good he will praise it if its bad he may trash it. I don't know about you but in todays world that kind of opinion is almost extinct. I respect his opinion and you guys should to. Quenton is my most valuble tool in my tool box and like any tool you have the choice to use it or not but getting a couple different points of views makes the decision making easier. Quentons a good friend on mine and is very good for the hobby and I feel he is very well respected and often times taken for granted. I know in the early days when these things came up and everybody had problems with there whizzers Quenton would be on the forum board waiting to help people with there problems. Even if you did not have current problems yourself you would wait to logon everyday to read what people are going through. There was a time that something came up on his end and he disappeared off the forum board for a couple of weeks, people were beginning to panic, because he was the only source at the time for help. When your passionate about something, reflect how you would handle it. I am a Quenton fan. Go Quenton and there is some of us that respect what you stand for and also thanks you for all your help you provided along this journey of getting to know these great machines.
 
View attachment 50492View attachment 50493View attachment 50494View attachment 50495View attachment 50496View attachment 50497Hi Klinde,


Just keep a close watch on the bearing sleeve, as when it "destructs", it will eat the $60.00 needle bearing, and lock the clutch up. Symptoms of problems may start with the bike failing to start because the one-way needle bearing no longer engaging.

Another classic idea concerns the seal, why not move it to the inside to stop the grease from getting on the shoes.

I am attaching several pictures so that you may see what fails in a short amount of time. Several of the pictures are from the latest clutch from Taiwan, and you can see the tool marks on the bearing sleeve. Ask any expert [racie35]what happens when you run HIGH speed needle bearings on a soft rough shaft. Sadly the latest from Taiwan can't be upgraded, as the hub has been cut back to allow the mounting bolt to recess inside the hub. Because the hub is cut back it doesn't leave any surface to press on a new hardened sleeve. The pictures will also show the necessary bearing sleeve that must be modified to fit [a machine shop process]the earlier rebuild-able clutches. Please note the picture with the earlier hub closeup and you can see the surface needed to press on a new sleeve, as it stops about 8 MM short of the end.

I guess these actual photos, and a few comments will help others in avoiding wasting their money. So far the average life of the new clutch is approx. 400 miles [not bad about $.50 per mile before replacement]. The 400 mile number was an average life span of the 11 Taiwan clutches sent to me for upgrading [sadly they can't be repaired]. I do know for sure the quality will vary greatly form Taiwan, and some will last longer or shorter than others.

Hope this information is helpful, and if anyone wants the part numbers of the, one-way needle bearing, bearing sleeve what needs to be done to it. I will gladly supply the information if anyone wants to have their own local machine shop do the work, just remember the latest versions are exempt for re-building [can't be fixed for a reasonable amount].

Have fun,

I sure would like any info you can give me, part numbers and any instructions. You have been a great help. I am going to see if I can repair my original clutches. I will hang on to the 2 clutches I bought from Joe last year and put them on the shelf.
 
As far as "how many whizzers have thousands of miles?", the whizzer that started this thread is over 3000 miles.

Quenton, thank you for your help and advice.

Racie, if you don't have help to offer, STFU. You're coming off like a spurned lover. If you can offer a competitive clutch solution, we would all love to hear it. Or even a non competitive solution. Or anything actually helpful.

All I need is weaker clutch springs. Anyone? Anyone? Part number or source? Please?
 
Have you used Joe's clutch yet? If so can you give me some feed back on your experience with his clutch?
What would your recommendation be?

Hi klinde. most of my clutches have come from Whizzer U.S.A.
I have one that my buddy Bob got from WhizzerPaul so we can test, just haven't had the time.

Ray
 
You're right, Racie. It was wrong of me to curse at a lady. I apologize.

Still, though, do you have anything to contribute that's actually helpful? To anybody?
 
As far as "how many whizzers have thousands of miles?", the whizzer that started this thread is over 3000 miles.

Quenton, thank you for your help and advice.

Racie, if you don't have help to offer, STFU. You're coming off like a spurned lover. If you can offer a competitive clutch solution, we would all love to hear it. Or even a non competitive solution. Or anything actually helpful.

All I need is weaker clutch springs. Anyone? Anyone? Part number or source? Please?

I Love hearing that someone had a Whizzer with that many miles, proves my point!
I wonder what happen to him.

Thanks,
Ray
 
Which ones do you have? Can you post pics?

I will post pictures later on today so you can see what I have. These are supose to have HCR 58 hardend bearing races. I have not had any reason to pull them apart because they are unused.
 
The pictures I posted are from the most recent version of the clutch from Taiwan, none of these clutches were sold by Debbie at Whizzer USA. All the clutches sold by Whizzer USA can be upgraded by simply upgrading the bearing sleeve.

I have springs for the clutches, just need to know which version you need. Joe is no longer thinning the shoes down [I guess being way too wide doesn't matter], and therefore the heavier shoes require different springs than the earlier versions.

I am getting ready to re-build several clutches and I will take pictures of the process and post the pictures and part numbers for anyone that want to upgrade their own clutch. Once again this doesn't apply to the current version from Taiwan.

Have fun,
 
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