Painting Your Head.

[pedal pusher]

Well it kinda has no real liquid, it has just some kind of c02. It just basicly stains the aluminum. It gives it the look of magnisium. not sure if I spelled that right. Look at some pics of ol race car rims like hollabrand or some ol drag cars from the gasser era. They had rims called kidny beans, dark grey lookin. I have even done this on my Neon ACR that I road race. I media blasted the paint off then sprayed um. Try it youll like it.

 

[cooltoy]

Like I said, that's interesting. I know the spray, I think it's a kind of "dry lube".
It reminds me of that spray that you use to protect metal that is galvinized. It is used to protect the part if you did welding or cutting. I think they both give the same effect.

 

[pedal pusher]

All the graphite does is stain the alum. the other part is like very light oil and co2. it will wash right off and leave the dark look.

 

[prism]

cylinder head painting.

I did this to the last bike I had:

A) bead blast cylinder and head (mask machined surfaces first)
B) clean carefully with solvent. (lacquer thinner, acetone, or similar.)
C) prewarm parts in oven to ~ 150 degrees F. This takes about an hour or so.
D) remove parts using clean cloth mits (so no fingerprint or hand 'oils'). Place on paper, and begin spraying with 'Gun Kote' by KG (?) Industries. Spray thin even coats while still warm.

**********Warning: evil fumes. Make certain you've got enough airflow to keep the stink down and your mind straight.**********

E) put sprayed parts back in the oven, crank temp to 300 F for at least an hour to cure.

When I did this (late 80's) Gun Kote only came in a dark flat gray color (which is still available). The results were not merely very 'nice' looking, but also cool running. Since, I've tried to use Gun-Kote on every engine I've put serious time into.

Note 1) Gun-Kote sticks very well to aluminum. It's a good deal less inclined to stick to cast iron.

Note 2) it resists scratches and abrasions well.

Note 3) That dark gray color speaks of most-serious intent when it comes to engines. (At least, I think so.)

Hope this is of some help.

 

[pedal pusher]

Most serious intent, well put. Dark grey w/ARP 12 point head nuts,black allan heads for side covers,K&N conical filter w/a 45deg. angle off to the side for room around the seat tube, flat black exhaust or high heat rap, that would look just SICK! I learned "IF IT DONT GO FAST,CHROME IT". Or make it look fast. Quite Schwinnister. Come to the dark side.

 

[prism]

Chrome?

Chrome? Perhaps *black* chrome, or 'dark nickel' - that, or polished aluminum. Personally, the usual species of chrome looks, uh, garish? Like it's *too* bright?
(I don't handle bright lights all that well, so perhaps that's why.)

Besides, nickel isn't *that* hard to do at home. (the plating aspect, that is. Getting that nickel to *stick* under semi-abusive condtions requires scrupulous cleaning - and, perchance, importing a shaman from Siberia...)

I'm working on rotary table t-nuts right now - got a batch of eight needing about another two hours' time, then heat-treating, and finally phosphating. Speaking of which, phosphating (better known as Parkerizing) gives a 'no-rubbish' dark gray matte finish on steel. I'm still learing about it, so it's not yet that predictable.

K&N - good deal, especially if it's a decent-sized one. Within reason, one cannot go too large on air filters. I've seen some kart engines using coffee-can sized examples. Add a rain-shield, and it should do well.