WHAT COLOR FOR CYLINDER ? FANTA CHOPPER BIKE BUILD

[Diamond Back]

I have been and always use DUPLICOLOR METALCAST PAINT... It comes in some crazy colors and it is oil, gas,and solvent safe and can withstand temperatures up to 550* degrees... When sprayed over a CHROME surface it comes out looking ANODIZED Transparent and you can also use the DUPLICOLOR SILVER BASE COAT if its not a Chrome surface and still get a nice Anodized Look.. Also Duplicolors sister Company VHT also has a Anodized Color Coat paint that also looks amazing and is Heat 550* and gas, oil proof..

When using these products it is very important to follow directions and apply in very light multiple coats ( I doing 10+ coats))) and after you color coat it you need to Fully CURE the paint in the OVEN at 200* degrees for an hour then let it cool for 24 hrs then do your CLEAR coat on top of it to give it that SOAKING WET DEEP GLOSSY LUSTER LOOK !!! then in the oven again at 150* deg. for an hour then let cure for as long as you can,,, says full cured in 7 days but it worth the wait..

So Trying to find a ORANGE paint to match frame color was a pain in the BUTT,,, I finally found a darn good close match being CHRYSLER HEMI ORANGE engine Enamel wth Ceramic... (what ever that means ceramic ))) but it is a darn close match and Heat and Gas resistant which is the important thing..

SO I AM ASKING YOUR OPINION ON WHAT COLOR TO PAINT THINGS ..?? NOW THAT I HAVE THE CYLINDER PORTING AND ALL DREMEL WORK DONE I CAN NOW GO A HEAD AND PAINT,, BUT WHAT COLOR?????? WAS THINKING ABOUT DOING A SILVER AND BLUE LOOK,, PAINT THE COOLING FINS IN A BLUE THEN SILVER THEN BLUE THEN SILVER LOOK, OR ORANGE ??? I DONT KNOW SO I WOULD LIKE YOUR OPINION PLEASE AND ALSO SHOULD I ANODIZE THE CHROME REED BLOCK A COLOR,,,??? SHOULD I ANODIZE THE CARBURATOR A COLOR,,??? WHAT COLOR FOR REAR ENGINE MOUNT CLAMP OR SHOULD I JUST LEAVE POLISHED ALUMINUM LOOK,,,??? AND THE RED AIR FILTER I HAD LEFT OVER FROM ANOTHER BUILD,,,, SHOULD I CHANGE THE COLOR ON IT TOO...?????? PLEASE GIVE ME YOUR THOUGHTS AS IT DOES HELP ME DECIDE TRULY..!!!!!

THANK YOU GUYS

 

[Frankenstein]

I have been and always use DUPLICOLOR METALCAST PAINT... It comes in some crazy colors and it is oil, gas,and solvent safe and can withstand temperatures up to 550* degrees... When sprayed over a CHROME surface it comes out looking ANODIZED Transparent and you can also use the DUPLICOLOR SILVER BASE COAT if its not a Chrome surface and still get a nice Anodized Look.. Also Duplicolors sister Company VHT also has a Anodized Color Coat paint that also looks amazing and is Heat 550* and gas, oil proof..

When using these products it is very important to follow directions and apply in very light multiple coats ( I doing 10+ coats))) and after you color coat it you need to Fully CURE the paint in the OVEN at 200* degrees for an hour then let it cool for 24 hrs then do your CLEAR coat on top of it to give it that SOAKING WET DEEP GLOSSY LUSTER LOOK !!! then in the oven again at 150* deg. for an hour then let cure for as long as you can,,, says full cured in 7 days but it worth the wait..

So Trying to find a ORANGE paint to match frame color was a pain in the BUTT,,, I finally found a darn good close match being CHRYSLER HEMI ORANGE engine Enamel wth Ceramic... (what ever that means ceramic ))) but it is a darn close match and Heat and Gas resistant which is the important thing..

SO I AM ASKING YOUR OPINION ON WHAT COLOR TO PAINT THINGS ..?? NOW THAT I HAVE THE CYLINDER PORTING AND ALL DREMEL WORK DONE I CAN NOW GO A HEAD AND PAINT,, BUT WHAT COLOR?????? WAS THINKING ABOUT DOING A SILVER AND BLUE LOOK,, PAINT THE COOLING FINS IN A BLUE THEN SILVER THEN BLUE THEN SILVER LOOK, OR ORANGE ??? I DONT KNOW SO I WOULD LIKE YOUR OPINION PLEASE AND ALSO SHOULD I ANODIZE THE CHROME REED BLOCK A COLOR,,,??? SHOULD I ANODIZE THE CARBURATOR A COLOR,,??? WHAT COLOR FOR REAR ENGINE MOUNT CLAMP OR SHOULD I JUST LEAVE POLISHED ALUMINUM LOOK,,,??? AND THE RED AIR FILTER I HAD LEFT OVER FROM ANOTHER BUILD,,,, SHOULD I CHANGE THE COLOR ON IT TOO...?????? PLEASE GIVE ME YOUR THOUGHTS AS IT DOES HELP ME DECIDE TRULY..!!!!! View attachment 78828 View attachment 78829 THANK YOU GUYS

Well I saw this a while back and the second I thought of cylinder colors and that Fanta orange bike I thought of this video:

You would probably get a kick from that tossed in there and most other people would too if you do it right!

 

[Frankenstein]

Maybe bright orange cylinder and blue fins to match the head, the rear mount should be orange.

Possibly even bright green cylinder and that blue for the fins.

 

[Diamond Back]

Maybe bright orange cylinder and blue fins to match the head, the rear mount should be orange.

Possibly even bright green cylinder and that blue for the fins.

Thats a cool idea,,, I think I will try it,,, orange with blue fins or blue with orange fins ???

 

[Frankenstein]

Thats a cool idea,,, I think I will try it,,, orange with blue fins or blue with orange fins ???

Blue fins.

 

[Diamond Back]

Blue fins.

its going to be a pain but i will try it,,, need to silver base coat everywhere first then do the blue first cause its metalcast paint, then mask off all the fins and spray orange in between...I ve also seen where after i do the blue fins , then take the DREMEL with a grinding wheel and do the outside edges of the fins to give it a silver machined like finish... I will post pictures when done...

and you think that back mount should be orange.?? you dont think thats an over kill on orange in the center of engine area ??

Also what do you think about that rear mount ?? its tight as can be and I had to put the rubber around the tube clamp area otherwize the 1.5" inch clamp would have been real loose on the 1.4" down tube... I just dont like the allen bolt in the center cause it only threads into the back which is only about 1/4 inch worth of threads and in alluminum too.. afraid to strip out if i over tighten,,, was thinking about just running a threaded 8mm rod (old mounting studs )) thru it with a dome nut on each side... think thats a better way and more strength... the ZEDA engines use 8mm engine mount studs front and rear with 40mm spacing..
I tell ya what,, these ZEDA Engines ROCK,, they are better in ever little way, will start using these engines in my Bike Builds for customers,,, these engines are top notch quality hands down compared to the other junk out there..

 

[6blueoval9]

Blue anodized filter.

Leave some of the billet aluminum exposed.. That gives it a performance look... All orange and blue everything in my opinion wouldn't look right...i would leave the back mount as is.

 

[Frankenstein]

I don't know how feasible it would be to paint a carburetor but that and the rear mount could be made a nice shade of black. Absolutely suggest leaf green for the case bolts, flatten the heads a bit on a belt sander and give them green, that would look really good.

 

[Frankenstein]

Don't paint the sides of the heads on the ones right below the cylinder either.

 

[Diamond Back]

Blue anodized filter.

Leave some of the billet aluminum exposed.. That gives it a performance look... All orange and blue everything in my opinion wouldn't look right...i would leave the back mount as is.

I agree on leaving the billet aluminum parts the way they are and the reed block,, I just windowed my PISTON,, i actually took a picture of a piston that has a window in it that ZEDA MOTORSPORTS sells and made the picture actual size of piston and got my measurments off the screen,,, go figure hey what ever works,, and i think i did a pretty good job on it even if you dont see it..

I also got some nice peddals to add some flavor to the bike and swaped the black kick stand for a chrome one i had bought for another bike but didnt work to well,,,Its a little longer than black one i took off so it actually holds the bike up stronger and straighter..

I got all my porting, polishing, and case/port matching done too.. I just went a little wider on the ports by 2-3mm on each side and cleaned up all the inperfections from when they cast the cylinder. and solved the age old task of putting a square object in a round hole...lol.... The OZ 4PEDAL REED BLOCK is square and the intake is oval so I squared up intake and gaskets. I also make the exhaust port wider at the top then bottom and the intake wider on bottom then top and give the ports a squarish funnel port job.. I didnt raise or lower any ports as of right now cause I want this motor to be a stronger low end Torque Monster with a 36 rear sprocket adapter on the 20"x3.5" rear wheel.. I really Like the 40mm wide OZ 4 PEDAL CARBON REED BLOCK better then the 32mm RSE 2 Pedal fiberglass ones..
I have never done these motors with a reed block and windowed piston.so I want to take it easy and do one modification at a time to see what works best,,,, what kind of performance do you think this ZEDA engine will have,, they come now with stuffed balanced Cranks now and whats better a INTAKE REED CAGE or a CASE INDUCTED REED CAGE that is 6 pedals and a 21mm Carburetor.