PK80 Wildcat Ported from California Motorbikes is Garbage

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This proves to show these engines are constructed with the cheapest labour and parts made. If you spend time scrolling through amazon and aliexpress you will begin to understand all the parts that have issues or are failing their some of the cheapest made and worse reviewed. My intake(s) were beyond terrible. When I mean terrible. there was so much goop of weld hanging in the inside of the tubes on both sides. I litterally had to port these just to match the carb intakes. Otherwise i would've dealt with metal shaving projecting into my motor or proper air fuel displacement. The PZ16 chinese knock off carb is also terrible. Out of 1-2 motors one was defective. I reached out to Zane yesterday and he is honoring to replace a bunch of defective parts I described previously out of the box.

I highly doubt this will fix the issues I;m currently having however. First piston blew up initially because the windows on the piston are too large and the material is very thin. Therefore meaning any lack of proper air-fuel mixture is catasrophic especially in lean settings and high rpms. Just like people had issues with the previous versions of the Phantom 85s. Well it's the same exact issues. If you inspect the new Phantom 85 v3's you'll notice they campered the edged of the bottom of the cylinder because the piston rings were snagging during heat expansions.

I did have a moment to remove the cylinder head and inspect whats going on inside. I replaced the seal with a Viton and even tried a spare from a salvaged 66cc crank case. Neither fixed the issue(s) after the motor initially blew the oil seals on the magneto side. Both motors failed to operate properly thereafter the seals blowing. So with extreme caution and advice I've come to conclude the pistons, crank, and other components start to give out at the same time frame.

I treated my second Wildcat like an infant child. Break-in very carefully, heat cycled, average speed 15-20mph, I only brought it up to 30 mph a few times on main bike strips and roads, It's proven to show these motors are NOT meant for daily commuting and will slowely will tend to fail if ran longer than 30-45 minutes.

Another issue is many people even suggest in these classic aspects that you shouldn't modify motors with Reed Valves until after the break-in.

After the disaster of two motors after 500km suggested on his website. Neither held up. I'm really regretting this because at the time of eying his ported engine the only thing that sold me was "ported". I even paid extra to have it with the cnc head, he forgot to send it and then sent one out. I could've avoided a headache and purchased this instead and dealt with their 6mo warranty. It's not personally my hobby to give anybody a bad review, but when it comes to hard work, money and labor it's an entire different story.


Zane has requested I contact him directly if I have any issues with his product and not post on the forums. My purpose is to fairly review just like across the board the entire motorized bike community on forums and YouTube.

I haven't pulled the cylinder head off yet and will be checking it today. I have a feeling due to the preformance of the motor on a early basis of having a CDH88 exhuast and the reed valve. It's too much rpm for the motor and it didn't seat the piston rings properly during the warm up and heat expanison of the piston rings. It's common sense at this point. Perhaps campering the edges of the bottom cylinder wall at a 45 degree angle will prevent piston ring sang. However this is just assumption partially. I will take the head off today and photo it and see what your opinions are. Keep in mind I never high reved this second motor on ANY warm-up. However after about 300 miles is when it's point of failure started coming. During cold starts I litterally had to blimp the throttle every time to get the carb and reed valves to properly operate. I'll keep you posted with photos and try to reach out to him again to see if he will be honor replacing the cylinder and piston this time after photo documenting and discussing with him. He is quick to replace parts as necessary.


He is sending me a Catnip CDI, pz16 carb, x1 stock cylinder head, 2 sets of oil seals, and a new piston for the Minarelli which the piston punches were too far in. I'm afraid none of these are going to fix the current issue I'm having start the Wildcat but these were defective on arrival. So keep that in mind.

I have more work, labour, expense and time invested into these motors than what I feel their personally worth. If you want something you can race down a strip on a very occasional basis and drive like an old man. By all means this is the motor for you. But be advised these motors require A LOT OF matience and things WILL fail when the oil seal on the magneto side BLOWS during break-in. Both motors didn't exceed past 550km a

My piston was cracked I have went through 2 pistons and 4 sets of piston rings and dude won't help my situation out at all I can't even get him to return emails most of this time I have had my ported Wildcat since end of October still won't start and all he's done is sent me 1 replacement piston. The intakes were absolute trash dont know how that passed his hand inspection before sending out orders. I still waiting for a reply for an email from 1.5 weeks ago. I sent him an email telling him ive gone through 2 pistons and the rings and still can get it to start and all he said was what's ur fuel/oil mixture.
 
My piston was cracked I have went through 2 pistons and 4 sets of piston rings and dude won't help my situation out at all I can't even get him to return emails……
It’s hard for a vendor..including CMB.. to determine whether a part/engine defect or failure is the result of user error or actual faulty stuff sold without being able to inspect it to make the determination.
When a second piston and 4 sets of rings fail in the same application theres reason to suspect something other than part defect.

The engines we buy mostly cost less than $200. It should be understood..at these prices..we start with low quality stuff and a crude platform to work with.

There are certain skills a user has to have in assembling and tuning these engines to get them to run somewhat reliably well. Even with the necessary skills and correct application, failures will happen because we start with a very low quality product.

The engine metal quality and fit tolerances amazes me sometimes because it so poor. BUT..I know I’m not paying much and I do get an engine for very little money. It’s all relative.

On the part of the vendors.. I think they should all have a written statement advising buyers of the facts mechanical engine building and tuning skills will be necessary to be successful in getting these engines to be reliable. And..without these skills failure is inevitable.

I can see a vendor just cover a first failure, regardless of actual failure fault, in the spirit of good customer relations but subsequent covers on same application has to open the possibility of some user error.

It would be best to keep in mind what one gets for the cost..
I’ve paid $500+ for rc plane engines small enough to fit in my pocket.

Below..a 70cc Malossi 2T engine.. $4080.00 and reading their terms of service & warranty.. sold “as is”

 
Zane has requested I contact him directly if I have any issues with his product and not post on the forums. My purpose is to fairly review just like across the board the entire motorized bike community on forums and YouTube.
I just can't think of anything more that could possibly be added to the statement I highlighted in green...I think Zane has said exactly what he means and that should tell you all exactly the contempt he holds against any dissenting reviews and what he thinks of any criticism in general that is directed at his business of business practices.

Some people do not like to see the light of day shining on them, but prefer to be shrouded in darkness so the light never exposes them for what they are for all to see plainly...lol.
 
I just can't think of anything more that could possibly be added to the statement I highlighted in green...I think Zane has said exactly what he means and that should tell you all exactly the contempt he holds against any dissenting reviews and what he thinks of any criticism in general that is directed at his business of business practices.
Yeah... I lose a lot of trust in any company or brand that polices reviews. It's one thing to request a person update or edit their review(s) if you put in the effort to make things right. It's another thing entirely to tell people "Don't post online about your bad experience at all."

This hobby in particular is rife with it. I have yet to find one that doesn't do it - either through my own experience of anecdotal evidence of people that I actually know and trust. Even my favorite go-to online store, B-E has done it to me. I left a 3 star review on the Phantom 85 kit after my experience opening up my V2. I contacted them initially about my issues and I was basically told to try to run it and go away. I decided to leave that review but they never allowed my review to post.

Note, I am not saying that one shouldn't first contact the company in question to try and make things right. That is the proper thing to do, and as Nick pointed out there are also owners who will do things incorrectly and damage the sellers products but then blame the product and/or the seller. I have seen an equal amount of that too, so I do understand why he may want to have a private chat to try and resolve this first.

The internet is a silly place where grains of salt must be taken frequently. It can be hard to sort out legitimate issues not being taken seriously by the seller, and legitimate idiots doing the wrong thing and damaging the things they buy.
 
Anything I buy online anymore I go straight to the bad reviews cause there are just way to many fake good reviews.
If I don't see any bad reviews or very few compared to good reviews I am calling BS. Bad reviews usually tell the whole story.
 
Anything I buy online anymore I go straight to the bad reviews cause there are just way to many fake good reviews.
If I don't see any bad reviews or very few compared to good reviews I am calling BS. Bad reviews usually tell the whole story.
I somewhat do the same, but I tend to ignore really short bad reviews (IE "This is Junk!") and will look for the bad reviews that contain at least a paragraph of information so I can objectively look at the information presented an try and determine if that person may have potentially been the problem, or if it was a legit quality issue or other such problem.
 
Anything I buy online anymore I go straight to the bad reviews cause there are just way to many fake good reviews.
If I don't see any bad reviews or very few compared to good reviews I am calling BS. Bad reviews usually tell the whole story.
Another red flag is a bad review with 4 or 5 stars.

First party reviews are usually useless.
 
Reviews really need to be taken with a grain of salt. Who really knows what the motivation and skill level of the reviewer is.

The reviews of the cheap CG motors on Amazon are a great example.

As Impulse said some reviews are very subjective, " This motor is junk, died the first time out." What a person reading doesn't know is if the reviewer even used properly mixed gas or even used any oil at all. Blaming their abject failure on the product itself seems a common theme.

Other reviews are more objective, " If you spend the time and carefully go over the motor looking for casting flaws, milling debris and clean up the ports you just may get good service out of it."
 
Reviews really need to be taken with a grain of salt. Who really knows what the motivation and skill level of the reviewer is.

The reviews of the cheap CG motors on Amazon are a great example.

As Impulse said some reviews are very subjective, " This motor is junk, died the first time out." What a person reading doesn't know is if the reviewer even used properly mixed gas or even used any oil at all. Blaming their abject failure on the product itself seems a common theme.

Other reviews are more objective, " If you spend the time and carefully go over the motor looking for casting flaws, milling debris and clean up the ports you just may get good service out of it."
I did all that. Even corrected removing weld leftovers from the kit lol. The pz16 carb Zane sent me recently is higher quality and isn't a cheap chinese casted ones he included in his kits. This topic gives me a headache. Even looking at it lol. Second wildcat stopped working a few weeks ago. After the oil seals blew. I'm going to rip apart the entire motor eventually. Hone the cylinder. Noticed the wear was a little uneven from the rings. Nothing crucial. Perhaps just do another 100 mile run on Valvoline conventional. The motor needed new bearings for the crank. I got sick of replacing the oil seals over and over again on all his motors, because at higher rpms they all love blowing a wad into your magneto case, dirtying your magneto assembly. Oil doesnt come off cloth lightly. His crank bearings should have a metal shield at this point... But they have no shields lol.
 
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