Possible Electric Bicycle ? [ trolling motor ]

I dunno Doc ... you might be right but I've used stainless rod for a lot of odd jobs. If the rod diameter is equal to the straight bolt he's replacing I think the strength would be about equal ... moot point however because his L bracket idea isn't too shabby a solution either .
 
This is prolly the only idea for an E-Bike I've liked... Seems to get rid of most problems by adding a lil' more weight.

Are there any updates to your progress, Wizard?
 
Wiz, I don't think you mentioned using stainless rod in your previous replies. Are you talking about welding a threaded bolt on to the stainless rod or threading the stainless rod somehow? I just don't get the jest of it.
You said" Hmmmm .... how about curving a piece of threaded barstock to replace the straight bolt that comes with the brake kit ? Kind of a J shaped bend you could make .... then sandwich the caliper between 2 nuts n 2 lockwashers."
Standard All-thread also known as Thread-all and also known as threaded rod is a very low carbon steel and will bend very easily. I guess if the length was very short a 5/16ths 18 thread might work but mind you, the threads will seperate at the bend and will no longer fit the nut.
Need an update!
 
Just a throw in thought...I was looking at scooters and pocket bikes and I found that most electric scooter/pocketbike motors only turn about 1250-1600rpm...I have 8-400watt pocketbike motors and they turn 1300rpm. Now for the part where I actually think...if those little wheels on a pocketbike can make it go 30mph with some 230+lb guy(me) on it your trolling motor should be able to move the bike easy.
BUT...pocketbikes still use a small to large sprocket to get about 3:1 gear reduction on them. I have a program that figures out the speed of a vehicle based on: wheel circumference, engine rpm and gearing. (assuming zero drag)
http://www.nacoma.cc/kartsmart.htm
There it is! It might help.
-Ropinlizard
 
At the hardware store, look for a "corner brace." It should be in the section for gate hardware. It looks sort of like an "L" bracket, but, with a triangle of metal in the corner, for strength. Ref the sketch below. There are also heavier "L" brackets available that [i[should[/i] hold up to the strain of braking.
 

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I think Wiz is right to use stainless if you can. You could also use drill rod or tool steel as some call it. When you go to machine it (Bend, drill, or what have you) Heat it first and when you are done quench it in oil to maintain hardness.
 
Did this thread die? I've got an old trolling motor and I want to try this... But I'm not very mechanically inclined.
 
Good question, askantik. It sures looks like it did, and that's a shame, as the basic idea is quite interesting.
 
Perhaps it's just hibernating. I have so many projects going on that I'm not sure if I'll ever get around to pursuing this idea. Maybe someone else will read this thread, pick up the ball, and run with it.
 
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