Clutch Problems with my bike! CLutch And Chain cover!
- Thread starter tskrem
- Start date
update with my bike!
Everything is connected. i drilled a bigger hole and the throttle works!
exhaust has been bent and is rollin'. my chain my uncle shortened with an angle grinder. i didn't measure properly so its still to lose(better to loose then to short) and hes gonna get a small chain tool from his work (he had one but it was for bigger chains and kept slipping. need to get those screws. thats it. also! which wire do i connect from the kill switch to the white wire??? and what do i do with the other wire??
thanks a million to everyone who viewed and posted on this thread.
Everything is connected. i drilled a bigger hole and the throttle works!
exhaust has been bent and is rollin'. my chain my uncle shortened with an angle grinder. i didn't measure properly so its still to lose(better to loose then to short) and hes gonna get a small chain tool from his work (he had one but it was for bigger chains and kept slipping. need to get those screws. thats it. also! which wire do i connect from the kill switch to the white wire??? and what do i do with the other wire??
thanks a million to everyone who viewed and posted on this thread.
MikeJ
Member
Hi tskrem -
Rides are coming soon! The kill switch on the throttle has two wires, probably a red, and a black with a brass loop on it. The white wire can be connected (soldered preferred) and wrapped with an insulator like electical tape or shrink wrap (if you know how to use it). The brass ring can be attached to the engine (some builders prefer this) or to a screw on the frame (other builders prefer this. I use both ways on two different bikes.) The proof that it works is that when the engine is running, the engine quits when the kill button is pressed.
Tweaking little things like seat height, tire pressure, bolt and screw tightness, etc., should be done before every ride (they vibrate loose). Tighten to "snug"; there is no reason to go heavy-handed. Your build is a unique product; nobody else has one exactly like it. Learn its quirks, adjust as needed, and have fun!
When you get into traffic, I **REALLY** recommend a helmet, eye protection, and a bright jacket or shirt. Stand out like a sore thumb in traffic! Everyone will benefit! Post a video sometime for all to see!
MikeJ
Rides are coming soon! The kill switch on the throttle has two wires, probably a red, and a black with a brass loop on it. The white wire can be connected (soldered preferred) and wrapped with an insulator like electical tape or shrink wrap (if you know how to use it). The brass ring can be attached to the engine (some builders prefer this) or to a screw on the frame (other builders prefer this. I use both ways on two different bikes.) The proof that it works is that when the engine is running, the engine quits when the kill button is pressed.
Tweaking little things like seat height, tire pressure, bolt and screw tightness, etc., should be done before every ride (they vibrate loose). Tighten to "snug"; there is no reason to go heavy-handed. Your build is a unique product; nobody else has one exactly like it. Learn its quirks, adjust as needed, and have fun!
When you get into traffic, I **REALLY** recommend a helmet, eye protection, and a bright jacket or shirt. Stand out like a sore thumb in traffic! Everyone will benefit! Post a video sometime for all to see!
MikeJ
Do NOT use the white wire to kill the engine!!!!
Wati! Wait! Wait a minuit!!!
The white wire is for powering a 6 volt light.
If you use it as an engine kill wire it will work, but eventually using it as such will ruin your CDI ignition box!
If you do not want to use the engine's on-board power for running a simple lighting system, then cap off the white wire with a bit of heat shrink tubing or electrical tape.
The kill button's red and black wires need to be connected to the black and blue ignition wires to properly kill the engine. Which color to which color does not matter, but I went black to black and red to blue.
Edit: you can also wire it up black wire with eyelet attached to engine bolt (not exhaust bolt, it gets too hot for the small wire) and red wire to blue ignition wire.
Wati! Wait! Wait a minuit!!!
The white wire is for powering a 6 volt light.
If you use it as an engine kill wire it will work, but eventually using it as such will ruin your CDI ignition box!
If you do not want to use the engine's on-board power for running a simple lighting system, then cap off the white wire with a bit of heat shrink tubing or electrical tape.
The kill button's red and black wires need to be connected to the black and blue ignition wires to properly kill the engine. Which color to which color does not matter, but I went black to black and red to blue.
Edit: you can also wire it up black wire with eyelet attached to engine bolt (not exhaust bolt, it gets too hot for the small wire) and red wire to blue ignition wire.
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MikeJ
Member
The "best" method of stopping the engine has been subject to controversy; it all depends upon who you want to believe. Multiple wiring schemes can stop the engine without harming anything. Here is an excerpt from engine mounting instructions available from www.BikeBerry.com:
Ignition Coil and Engine Kill Switch installation
A) Mount CD ignition coil on bike frame, close enough to attach coil wire to spark plug. Mount as far away
from exhaust pipe as possible to avoid heat damage to semiconductors in CDI module.
B) Attach CD ignition coil wires to same identical color coded wires coming from engine.
C) Install Engine Kill Switch: Select one of 3 kinds. A. Small handlebar type: B. Throttle kill switch: C.
Kill switch on optional twist handle clutch. Attach chosen kill switch wire to white wire coming from
engine. If switch has two wires, take one to frame grd. and one to the engine white wire.
D) Route all wires away from engine exhaust heat. Secure wires with a plastic tie straps.
*!WARNING! Operation of engine without stop or kill switch installed could result in personal injury
if an emergency stop is required! The only alternate non recommended way of killing the engine is by
releasing the clutch lever with bike brakes on and engine at slowest idle.
I will let other authors explain their wiring scheme. The above instructions work for me on two bikes. If the CD ignition semiconductors are prone to being damaged by grounding the output of the white wire (as I do), I doubt a continuing operation like BikeBerry would publish instructions to use the white wire.
Again, multiple methods successfully stop the engine without harming anything.
MikeJ
Ignition Coil and Engine Kill Switch installation
A) Mount CD ignition coil on bike frame, close enough to attach coil wire to spark plug. Mount as far away
from exhaust pipe as possible to avoid heat damage to semiconductors in CDI module.
B) Attach CD ignition coil wires to same identical color coded wires coming from engine.
C) Install Engine Kill Switch: Select one of 3 kinds. A. Small handlebar type: B. Throttle kill switch: C.
Kill switch on optional twist handle clutch. Attach chosen kill switch wire to white wire coming from
engine. If switch has two wires, take one to frame grd. and one to the engine white wire.
D) Route all wires away from engine exhaust heat. Secure wires with a plastic tie straps.
*!WARNING! Operation of engine without stop or kill switch installed could result in personal injury
if an emergency stop is required! The only alternate non recommended way of killing the engine is by
releasing the clutch lever with bike brakes on and engine at slowest idle.
I will let other authors explain their wiring scheme. The above instructions work for me on two bikes. If the CD ignition semiconductors are prone to being damaged by grounding the output of the white wire (as I do), I doubt a continuing operation like BikeBerry would publish instructions to use the white wire.
Again, multiple methods successfully stop the engine without harming anything.
MikeJ
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xRegginoy
Member
This is what I did and it works perfectly fine, just contributing my thoughts.
Regarding the black and yellow wires from the kill switch,
the black one just needs to be ground, either mount it to the frame like I previously did (i have it on the front mount now). For the yellow wire just get enough wire showing and splice it in with the blue wire coming from the engine to the ignition box, yes, you can shove it in there.
.
The white wire as you've heard isn't really necessary unless you're powering some kind of electronical device. Then just take the remaining black wire from the engine and connect it with the black one on the ignition box.
Regarding the black and yellow wires from the kill switch,
the black one just needs to be ground, either mount it to the frame like I previously did (i have it on the front mount now). For the yellow wire just get enough wire showing and splice it in with the blue wire coming from the engine to the ignition box, yes, you can shove it in there.
.The white wire as you've heard isn't really necessary unless you're powering some kind of electronical device. Then just take the remaining black wire from the engine and connect it with the black one on the ignition box.
cabinfever1977
Member
the blue and the white wire come from the mag,but the blue wire is carring more power. so why would using the white wire for the kill switch hurt the cdi,the blue wire will do the same or more. but i believe its safe to use either one you want to,but the white wire has a free plug thats not being used and you know why,cause its for a kill switch and/or light. feel free to splice into the blue wire for the kill switch,but why didnt they leave a free plug on the blue wire for a kill switch connector.you could also just add a toggle switch or kill switch with just the ground wire.
MikeJ
Member
Hey tskrem -
You riding yet?
MikeJ
You riding yet?
MikeJ
