pull the clutch disk out

Discussion in 'Frame Mounted Engines' started by Proboscis, May 20, 2007.

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  1. Proboscis

    Proboscis Guest

    whats the best way

  2. rcjunkie

    rcjunkie Guest

    Spray PB blaster onto assembly and then heat with a torch until very hot and then pry evenly off with screw driver.
  3. Guest

    Guest Guest

    On which engine?
    Pry what? Heat where?
    Loosen something first?
    A little more detail please.
  4. Proboscis

    Proboscis Guest

    on a kings
  5. Guest

    Guest Guest

    RC- Care to elaborate? Spray/heat/pry is not what he's asking.

    First of all, spraying oil into the clutch assembly isn't a good idea, neither is heating up with a torch or prying, good way to ruin something.

    This may help- both of you......[​IMG]
  6. Guest

    Guest Guest

    I'll be the first to admit, I've never had mine apart, but it looks like you remove the sprocket, both covers and a nut or two and tap the countershaft side of the shaft and the whole works will come out via the clutch side.

    Let me know what you find.
  7. rcjunkie

    rcjunkie Guest

    If you are replacing a worn clutch why do you care about heat or PB blaster?

    Referring to Proboscis's picture, you want to spray PB blaster and apply heat around the shafthole of the flywheel/clutch assembly. When you got it nice and hot, use a couple of screw drivers and insert them under the geared edges to pray the entire assembly out.

    Anyway, that is how I did and it worked for me.
  8. Guest

    Guest Guest

    Pry away! :)
  9. iRide Customs

    iRide Customs Member

    I think the kits come with a clutch puller tool don't they? I thought I saw one in my little bag of goodies I got with my roundhead.

    I'll have to look again.

  10. BikeHacker

    BikeHacker Guest

    use the provided puller or buy one from spooky cheap ... It will fall right out after a few twists...
  11. Guest

    Guest Guest

    Is that before or after you oil/heat/pry? :wink:
  12. srdavo

    srdavo Active Member

    the puller you speak of is for the 10 toothed sprocket on the left side of your engine. :eek:
  13. gone_fishin

    gone_fishin Guest

    i wish i had a junker engine to tear down, this "not knowing" bothers me.

    the tool looks as if it is double sided? maybe double duty? i'm only asking, until i have to tear mine down, i won't know firsthand.
  14. srdavo

    srdavo Active Member

    yes... the puller is 2-sided!!! I don't now what the other side pulls :? :?
  15. Guest

    Guest Guest

    My point being you don't just oil/heat/pry on something blindly, could cost you an engine.

    From the diagram/exploded view it would seem that you remove a few items (especially the two "no. 10" M-6 nuts) and the whole shaft/clutch/ect slide out.

    I don't think oiling/heating/prying will work especially if you heat too much or pry in the wrong place or on the wrong thing.
  16. Guest

    Guest Guest

    So, how is your progress proboscis?
  17. Proboscis

    Proboscis Guest

    I've ran into more problems. Flywheel rod bushing went out (bottom end full of metal shavings). I did fashion a homemade bushing for the wrist pin using a brass pressure fitting (seemed to of held up for 500km but plan to replace). I stripped the heads of 3 screws holding the case together:mad: The quality of the fastening hardware is horrible (Started to replace as I go). All in all I'm not too mad, for 5500km I got my moneys worth. If anymore problems arise I think I'm heading now the 4-stroke road. Still working on that clutch though :cool: