Rear Wheel is killing me

This is how I do all the ones I do. This is just a mock up and I take the chain off to make it easier when I do it. First jack it up and lock the clutch in the disengage position with the clutch lever so you can spin the wheel. Then I take a tooth pick and rubber band. I only have the screws tight enough to hold the sprocket. First I check up and down them move the tooth pick and do the in and out. You do this by tighten the screws a little at a time once the sprocket is aligned I tighten the sprocket bolts up a little at a time and keep checking the trueness while doing this. Do this in a cross pattern.







 
This is simple, your back sprocket is not true to the wheel, it gets loose and then gets tight as you roll it.

Pull your left side chain off, prop up the back and spin the wheel looking at a fixed spot through the wheel at sprocket height and you will see it go up and down, maybe even wobble back and forth too from the rear.

When we put sprockets on we get them to loose fit, then mount them in a fork on the bench to spin them and adjust the sprocket nuts down in a star pattern until the sprocket is on tight and true.

If you can do that you are golden, if it not you can always get a clamsheel hub adapter, that will make it easy to mount a true sprocket, but what fun is in admitting to defeat to a Chinese kit? It's not like IKEA furniture hehehe ;-}
So all I need to do is tighten sprocket and nuts? What about chain alignment? What is the best way to be sure left side chain is aligned properly?
 
This is how I do all the ones I do. This is just a mock up and I take the chain off to make it easier when I do it. First jack it up and lock the clutch in the disengage position with the clutch lever so you can spin the wheel. Then I take a tooth pick and rubber band. I only have the screws tight enough to hold the sprocket. First I check up and down them move the tooth pick and do the in and out. You do this by tighten the screws a little at a time once the sprocket is aligned I tighten the sprocket bolts up a little at a time and keep checking the trueness while doing this. Do this in a cross pattern.









Okay THANKS! This makes so much more sense now. I don't have a jack, so I'll see what I can do. So should I spin the wheel every time I tighten the bolts a little bit? And I've heard of the wire hanger method, what is that? I'm thinking of getting the clam shell adapter in the future. Also, sorry for double post.
 
Clever use of a toothpick and hair ties, really bud, quite clever ;-}
The bottom line however is the engine being mounted tight and flush to the seatpost, and then postilion the rear sprocket to match the chain line to it.

If a fender is in the way, bob it off.
If the rear tire is too fat, get a thinner one.
ALL that matters is the engine and back tire are true and aligned.
 
Thanks everyone, got a new chain today (only because I was too impatient to wait for delivery on just a master link) cut it to the perfect length and took the tensioner right off. Also did the toothpick trick and I think the alignment was pretty good (might be minimally warped Chain hasn't come off in the 5 blocks I ridden it, but the last one popped off in 20 feet, so, so far so good. But now I'm on to the next problem - the gas won't get to the carb with the fuel filter in. I took the paper filter out (and left the actual plastic tub there) and now she's running decently. NEXT problem after that, she does idle, but I think it's probably too high. When I brake/stop she usually cuts off on her on. I literally haven't used the kills witch yet because it'll just cut off after a few minutes of idling. Maybe I'm revving too high in the idle/neutral?

Any help on these new problem? (I'd rather have her running with small problems than not running at all... then again I don't wanna blow my nuts off.)
 
I would stick it in a new thread. Makes it easier for the next person to find info plus new title will attract more answers. :)
Mods might want to move this to Drivetrain.
 
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