Review of Yong Xing machine zone 60cc

[BSA]

My friend (raph92 on this forum) and me have thrown together this bike.

This engine can be purchased at http://stores.ebay.co.uk/YXM-Zone
Bought for £50, (about 100$)

First impressions:
Box had holes in it,
Motor was intact and all parts were present.
The clutch lever was just a converted bike gear shifter with a brake handle built in, which is completely inappropriate. I replaced with a locking clutch lever from transformer cycles.
The fuel tank clamps were far to small for our top bar. A number of bolts were complete junk.

Other than that the parts were perfect.

The engine runs, and has not had any major problems. I'm running on 16-1 synthetic mix. Maximum speed for the first 50 miles is 15, and I will speed up after that. A bit of oil seeps out of the exhaust gasket.

We ditched the chain tensioner, more trouble than it was worth. Used the rear dropout to tension the chain, bought a sprung loaded tensioner for the pedal side.



Conclusion: excellent value for money, decent performance for bargain bucket prices.

 

[fastboy9]

I think the true displacement of the engine is 58cc, from what I can see on the grubee site the big don is finally calling the kits 48cc, 58cc, and 66cc. Heres the link for a massive page about this engine. http://www.grubeeinc.com/USA/SkyHawk.htm

After looking at all the accessories and extra parts I can see that the reason Yong Xing Machine Zone can sell the kits so cheap is because they are the lowest possible quality and have none of the extras. Also this particular model is sold without any warranty, whereas all the other engines have a warranty.

 

[starkm32]

A hundred bux shipping seems excessive, sounds like a FleaBay ploy.

Cheep Xinese product, HUGE shipping fee.

But, whatever strokes....

If the engine is dura built, but without a warranty, the odds are stacked.

 

[iron_monkey]

After looking at all the accessories and extra parts I can see that the reason Yong Xing Machine Zone can sell the kits so cheap is because they are the lowest possible quality and have none of the extras. Also this particular model is sold without any warranty, whereas all the other engines have a warranty.

You aint gonna get "proper" warranty for all the other engines; think about it from their perspective. While they will glady give you a free engine or needed parts; the factory isnt going to pay for $100+ shipping when it costs them (im guessing) in the region of $10-20 to make an engine. (They are sold for around 30-50 USD/piece to importers, and thats the whole kit)

Also, $100 shipping is very cheap when you consider how much even USPS(let alone UPS) charges for their heavy 10-20kg shipments.

 

[iron_monkey]

60cc yongxing just arrived after just 6 days from placing order on ebay; China to australia.

First impressions; The engine is grey enamel painted which is a nice touch compared to the first engine I got (hopefully less staining and no more rust). Another touch is a plastic bushing on the engine block for the CDI cables (none on old engine; just a hole on engine block). Spark Plug actually fits Spark plug cable (old engine I needed to replace the cable altogether). Still old style exhaust but no more pipe edges protruding from inlet (unless you file/grind it out you will get leaky exhaust). Tensioner still not ball bearing (but still usable imo if you need it). Nuts on headbolts are now stainless sealed dome shaped type compared to the ordinary nuts on old engine. Headstuds are still 6mm but the 80cc version appears to have larger ones; not that it really matters to me anyway.

In regards to Clutch shifter; i thought clicking the button would totally release the clutch but the button only released abit (for changing down gear one step at a time). Which makes it totally silly/useless (unless you like engaging an engine by pressing a button 4 times).

Anyone ordering this engine should request an ordinary brake/clutch lever.

All the parts I requested are there, including roller bearing. From first impressions this is a significant improvement from the first engine I got. I hope there would be a similar improvement in actual operation.

Will update once i actually get around to assembling the engine. The first engine was stolen, it didnt die. Was maintenance free once i fixed the initial problems. The aforementioned improvements may not be a big deal to you as the first engine i got appears to be very poor quality first generation type compared to the ones you guys get now.

 

[BSA]

Today I was tightening up the cylinder head bolts and it snapped. Still enough left to cut in a groove with hacksaw blade, then screw out. Just shows you it's rubbish quality.

BSA

 

[starkm32]

"Just shows you it's rubbish quality."

Actually (our) rubbish is a multi-million (possibly billion) goldmine for China.

In the old days, the Nippon car manufacturers would buy junk metal from scrap yards,
process the ores, fabricate car metal out of them, and send them back to the old US of A, in the form of *NEW* Datsuns, Toyotas, etc.

That caused the cars to rust-bucket out, and the consumer picking up his jaw from the asphalt, while the motors were still ahummin.

Second , 3rd,...., nth generation metal kept cummin back. Go figure.

Now china is getting into the act.

Oh, by the way, gas prices are soaring due to the hi-energy competition from the new boyz around the block.




.

 

[iron_monkey]

You must have been using alot of torque to snap the studs. They are made of soft metal I guess, but I dont think the more expensive kits would be any different in this regard.

The main thing to fear is stripping the threads on the block itself. Maybe one should replace the dome studs with metal two piece stud with a normal nut so that friction would be between nut and stud instead of stud and block.

I found out that improvised shifter for the clutch should be able to disengage engine with one "gear change". Looks like it may be very useful after all.

 

[iron_monkey]

Been a long time waiting for a sprocket. Fired up the yongxing yesterday, 60cc still had adequate torque for the 31t sprocket for gentle and moderate inclines (66kg person).
In fact it had some usable power even when there was a massive head gasket leak (could feel the gasses escaping by hand) from a loose nut. Turns out the headstuds are really not one piece with the nut.
Considering its only traveled 50+km so im expecting more torque gradually.

Smoothness and engine noise with this roller bearing engine are the same as the previous 66cc(presumably bushing).

The integrated/improvised shifter for clutch operation turns out to be useless as the resistance is too high; your thumb would be sore very quickly. If anybody wants to buy this engine tell the seller to substitute a normal clutch lever instead if he can.

Theres nothing wrong with this engine atm, the only major deficiency is that the headstuds and the mounting studs should be 10mm or thicker. Which applies to all happytimes really.

 

[milegajo]

When i was first starting out with these bikes i used yong xing, didn't have very high expectations and i didn't care if i broke it as it was so cheap.

Firstly, my original 48.8cc (and the other '60cc') is still going strong

Secondly, didn't get charged VAT - think it was because it was marked gift/sample - the bloke's good like that.

I actually ran the engine at 40:1 mineral nearly from the start as it was smoking so much at 16:1 / 25:1 etc plus helped wear it in in my opinion. Of course i expected it to die not long after but the little bugger is still going and from inspection - no adverse wear n tear.

I managed to snap a bolt on the rear sprocket and exhaust - replaced the exhaust bolt, now i source good old british bolts and ONLY use nyloc nuts as i HATE having to keep tightening them. Plus the chinese bolts thread like butter!

Picture below was a bolt from a prebuilt one i imported to thrash about - after 2-3 hours check out this bolt from the rear sprocket!- Chinese rubbish - BEWARE!this could have been v nasty.

 

[iron_monkey]

You want to be careful with the exhaust/head bolts. If the bolt threads wont wear, the block threads will.

Theres always chemiweld I suppose.