S
skatingsamurai
Guest
ugh...alright well i hope they know what there talking about because i have to drive about 20 miles...should be fun tho.
Did you try adjusting it yourself? Not as hard as it seems.
HseLoMein
Member
Pablo,
How long is the standard warranty on the shifter kit? What is the durability of the crank freewheel? and how hard is it to remove from the crank? Yesterday when i was coming home from a 15 mile trip, the crank freewheel locked up. IT was kinda startling as it threw my feet off the pedals. But now i can pedal in the easiest gear but if i need to use any torque it slips and if i do get the engine running i have to keep my legs spread...fun :/ Would it breaking have something to do with the supplied sprockets being slightle off center?
How long is the standard warranty on the shifter kit? What is the durability of the crank freewheel? and how hard is it to remove from the crank? Yesterday when i was coming home from a 15 mile trip, the crank freewheel locked up. IT was kinda startling as it threw my feet off the pedals. But now i can pedal in the easiest gear but if i need to use any torque it slips and if i do get the engine running i have to keep my legs spread...fun :/ Would it breaking have something to do with the supplied sprockets being slightle off center?
G
Ghost0
Guest
We warranty our products for 60 days after sale. The freewheels are pretty difficult to remove but not impossible. The failure is typically due to one of the pawls cracking. These employ a 2 pawl system, so one is till working which is why you can get it to engage sometimes, but there is a piece of the broken pawl in the freewheel which is why it will also locks up. Send an email to
jim@sickbikeparts.com
and we will see about replacing your freewheel.
jim@sickbikeparts.com
and we will see about replacing your freewheel.
As Jim stated, 60 days, but we will replace it no problem. When did you get your kit? (Don't know folks by their screen names vs. real names). They are tough to remove, the tool is a must. The tool is then bolted to the crank arm/freewheel. The assembly must be held very firmly and a big extended breaker bar or impact driver can remove it.
We have had some few FW's fail. But most last just fine. The pawls will stick if they are grease filled and one or two have had pawls just plain break. We have plenty of spares for quick replacement, just in case. As most know, there simply is not a large selection of front freewheels to choose out there. Dicta is a known brand, but they aren't perfect. We screen and lube them prior to installing on the crank arms, but a few weak ones get through - and we stand behind our products.
Also we designed and have a HD freewheel made in the USA by White Industries. Not cheap, but a better alternative. If the Dicta FW fails, we offer a few choices, one including a discount on the HD freewheel for customers with a warranty claim on a standard freewheel of $10 off ($55 and free shipping). Which means we are supplying them at our cost. (If you try to buy a similar front freewheel directly, one off, it will be over $100+)
Paul
EnFlaMEd
Member
I am also having the same problem with the BB coming loose. It seems to happen after everyride though the lockring itself still seems tight. The last time I tightened it I really hammered the **** out of it and thought it wouldn't come loose again. Alas it has after one ride. Does anyone know if it is possible to get a sealed bearing unit that is the same spec as the sbp spindle?
I also have a weird problem in 9th gear where the chain seems to twang every rotation or so. I'm hoping this is just a chain gap problem.
I also have a weird problem in 9th gear where the chain seems to twang every rotation or so. I'm hoping this is just a chain gap problem.
lordoflightaz
Member
Here are my thoughts, with EXPERIENCE.
It's not the lock nut that is doing you in. It's the bottom bracket itself. You need to make it as tight as you can and have the shaft still be able to turn. Don't guess just cause you can't spin it by hand. Put the pedal arms on and check to see if you can pedal, it should be tight but still able to spin.
Now put the lockring on. Make it tight.
This worked for me.
It's not the lock nut that is doing you in. It's the bottom bracket itself. You need to make it as tight as you can and have the shaft still be able to turn. Don't guess just cause you can't spin it by hand. Put the pedal arms on and check to see if you can pedal, it should be tight but still able to spin.
Now put the lockring on. Make it tight.
This worked for me.
G
Ghost0
Guest
I will concur. The reason being is that when you set the lock nut it will actually pull the cup on that side away from the bearing and make it loose. So if you start tighter than you think it should be and then tighten the lock ring it should be good to go.
EnFlaMEd
Member
Hmm I might give that a try. I was basically tightening the cup to the point where I could still easily rotate the cranks by hand but if I swung them around and let go their inertia wouldnt be enough to keep them rotating. By the sounds of it I may not have tightened the cup enough.
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