Hawaii_Ed
Member
chee-hoo!
5
5-7HEAVEN
Guest
Ed, I didn't know you spoke Samoan!
TREEWK
Member
5-7
Thats Good News, Hope You Get Many Trouble Free Miles. Ron
Thats Good News, Hope You Get Many Trouble Free Miles. Ron
5
5-7HEAVEN
Guest
Thanks for your support, Ron.
Many troublefree miles until the next "design change", as Tanaka 40 would say, lol.
Thank you too, Bonefish and Hawaii Ed.
Off to work now. Hawaii Ed, Rick and I will get together for a ride this weekend!
Many troublefree miles until the next "design change", as Tanaka 40 would say, lol.
Thank you too, Bonefish and Hawaii Ed.
Off to work now. Hawaii Ed, Rick and I will get together for a ride this weekend!
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5
5-7HEAVEN
Guest
Chain Falls...Wheel Jams...Wild Skid...Rider Falls...
Yesterday, I installed new Specialized Armadillo tires and thick tire tubes, relubed front axle bearings, adjusted rear cassette, trimmed and double-nutted all exposed bolts and allthread on the Scooterguy mount. Today, I went for a ride to test the bike's performance on the hill that conquered my GP460 friction drive.
Scooterguy drive and Tanaka 47R took the hill! Of course not at top speed, but the cassette gears kept the engine within its power range. The bike slowed down. I would've hugged the curb, but there were no cars behind me. At the hilltop, the bike caught its wind and off we went. At the long flats on Nimitz Highway, the bike merged into traffic and a motorcycle and motorscooter passed me by. The cycle was long gone, but I caught up to the scooter and other cars at the traffic light. When the light turned green, all traffic was left behind. The scooter finally caught me at top gear and exceeded the speed limit. I caught him at the next light, left him there and he caught me again in high gear. This went on for three lights, until the scooter turned off into a sidestreet.
The bike chain threw itself at the last light, which I thought was strange. When I reinstalled it, I noticed the the engine drive chain was looser than normal, but serviceable. Also noticed that the cassette kept upshifting and downshifting by itself in 7th-8th gear and 4th-5th gear.
While climbing the last short hill near home, I upshifted twice to keep within power range at 30mph....
then all **** broke loose!!!
The engine drive chain fell into the bottom bracket. This locked the rear tire, causing a few seconds of rear wheelskid. Luckily, there were no cars around. I missed hitting the tree, the front wheel hit the curb. My left forearm broke the fall, then I did a 360-degree rollover. I immediately jumped up and carried my bike onto the sidewalk, under the shady tree. Damage assessment was a giant "mouse", which was 4" below my left elbow. LOL, it looked like I had TWO left elbows, lol. Other than that, I was okay. No blood, minor roadrash of the first skin layer, minimal pain, no torn clothes, not even dirt on my clothing,lots of adrenalin. Luckily, I always wear a helmet, kneepads, gloves and a hydration backpack(elbow pads next time). The engine cover had been missing a section near the exhaust, and another 4" square broke off. The throttle tab was bent and easily fixed. The Tanaka engine wouldn't fire up, so I reinstalled both chains and pedalled home.
Everything happened so quickly, but I saw it in slow motion. Loud mechanical noise, look down and see the dropped chain and locked wheel. The skid slows down the bike, see the tree coming up, avoid, hit the curb, brace for fall, roll over, get up and off the road. Surprisingly, the bike and I sustained very minor damage. No scraped paint, even the mirrors were still aiming correctly. I was still able to make my donation at the Blood Bank of Hawaii an hour later, using the same clothes. The swelling's gone down in five hours and so is the adrenalin rush.
I feel GREAT!
To keep the engine drive chain from falling into the chainrings again, I will fab two steel loops which will encircle the chain near the drive sprocket, but slightly below and off to each side of the sprocket. That way, if the chain falls again, both hoops will support the chain in almost its original height level and prevent it from falling into the bottom bracket.
I will also replace the 8-speed cassette and chain. It might've been part of the reason that the wheel jammed.
In the meantime, I'll be riding at 20mph or less, until I can get this problem sorted out.
Yesterday, I installed new Specialized Armadillo tires and thick tire tubes, relubed front axle bearings, adjusted rear cassette, trimmed and double-nutted all exposed bolts and allthread on the Scooterguy mount. Today, I went for a ride to test the bike's performance on the hill that conquered my GP460 friction drive.
Scooterguy drive and Tanaka 47R took the hill! Of course not at top speed, but the cassette gears kept the engine within its power range. The bike slowed down. I would've hugged the curb, but there were no cars behind me. At the hilltop, the bike caught its wind and off we went. At the long flats on Nimitz Highway, the bike merged into traffic and a motorcycle and motorscooter passed me by. The cycle was long gone, but I caught up to the scooter and other cars at the traffic light. When the light turned green, all traffic was left behind. The scooter finally caught me at top gear and exceeded the speed limit. I caught him at the next light, left him there and he caught me again in high gear. This went on for three lights, until the scooter turned off into a sidestreet.
The bike chain threw itself at the last light, which I thought was strange. When I reinstalled it, I noticed the the engine drive chain was looser than normal, but serviceable. Also noticed that the cassette kept upshifting and downshifting by itself in 7th-8th gear and 4th-5th gear.
While climbing the last short hill near home, I upshifted twice to keep within power range at 30mph....
then all **** broke loose!!!
The engine drive chain fell into the bottom bracket. This locked the rear tire, causing a few seconds of rear wheelskid. Luckily, there were no cars around. I missed hitting the tree, the front wheel hit the curb. My left forearm broke the fall, then I did a 360-degree rollover. I immediately jumped up and carried my bike onto the sidewalk, under the shady tree. Damage assessment was a giant "mouse", which was 4" below my left elbow. LOL, it looked like I had TWO left elbows, lol. Other than that, I was okay. No blood, minor roadrash of the first skin layer, minimal pain, no torn clothes, not even dirt on my clothing,lots of adrenalin. Luckily, I always wear a helmet, kneepads, gloves and a hydration backpack(elbow pads next time). The engine cover had been missing a section near the exhaust, and another 4" square broke off. The throttle tab was bent and easily fixed. The Tanaka engine wouldn't fire up, so I reinstalled both chains and pedalled home.
Everything happened so quickly, but I saw it in slow motion. Loud mechanical noise, look down and see the dropped chain and locked wheel. The skid slows down the bike, see the tree coming up, avoid, hit the curb, brace for fall, roll over, get up and off the road. Surprisingly, the bike and I sustained very minor damage. No scraped paint, even the mirrors were still aiming correctly. I was still able to make my donation at the Blood Bank of Hawaii an hour later, using the same clothes. The swelling's gone down in five hours and so is the adrenalin rush.
I feel GREAT!
To keep the engine drive chain from falling into the chainrings again, I will fab two steel loops which will encircle the chain near the drive sprocket, but slightly below and off to each side of the sprocket. That way, if the chain falls again, both hoops will support the chain in almost its original height level and prevent it from falling into the bottom bracket.
I will also replace the 8-speed cassette and chain. It might've been part of the reason that the wheel jammed.
In the meantime, I'll be riding at 20mph or less, until I can get this problem sorted out.
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TREEWK
Member
5-7
Man, I Would Call Lucky. Did You Have A Brain Bucket On?? Wow.
If It Shifts Back And Forth, It Is Out Of Adjustment, And May Have Something Loose To Go Back And Forth.
I Sure Feel For You. I Just Don`t Have Any Problem`s With My Diy Set Up.
Are Your Frame Tubes Round Or Oval?? I Am Going To Build More Of The Kits For My Bikes.
Have You Changed What Cogs You Use On The Rear, For Straighter Chain Line?
I Eye-balled My Chain Lines For Straightness When Asembling. Then Did Final
Rear Derailer Adjustments.
There Is A Bicycle Add On Exercise Machine On Craigs List For $20. It Has Adjustments For Axle Width. And Has Drag Adjust Ment. But!! It`s 130 Miles Away From Me. It Would Be So Nice To Check Chain Run, Carb Adjustment, Etc.
Actually I Have One Here That Could Be Modified. It Is Sitting Under The Purple Trike. Ron
Man, I Would Call Lucky. Did You Have A Brain Bucket On?? Wow.
If It Shifts Back And Forth, It Is Out Of Adjustment, And May Have Something Loose To Go Back And Forth.
I Sure Feel For You. I Just Don`t Have Any Problem`s With My Diy Set Up.
Are Your Frame Tubes Round Or Oval?? I Am Going To Build More Of The Kits For My Bikes.
Have You Changed What Cogs You Use On The Rear, For Straighter Chain Line?
I Eye-balled My Chain Lines For Straightness When Asembling. Then Did Final
Rear Derailer Adjustments.
There Is A Bicycle Add On Exercise Machine On Craigs List For $20. It Has Adjustments For Axle Width. And Has Drag Adjust Ment. But!! It`s 130 Miles Away From Me. It Would Be So Nice To Check Chain Run, Carb Adjustment, Etc.
Actually I Have One Here That Could Be Modified. It Is Sitting Under The Purple Trike. Ron
Attachments
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5
5-7HEAVEN
Guest
Ron, I ALWAYS use my motorcycle helmet. It probably got a few more scrapes today.
My seat tube is the largest round size, other tubes are oval "Strongbox" style ala Diamondback. I have not changed the cogs yet. I WAS gonna change the chain and cassette. Instead, I will swap in an internal hub, so no need to worry about bike chain alignment anymore. Unsure if it'll be NuVinci or Sturmey-Archer.
I use a two-legged bikestand like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Pyramid-Sunlite-Double-Kickstand/dp/B000AO9Z7K
If I place a two-by-four block of wood under the stand, I can check chain/cassette alignment, also change either front or rear wheels.
My seat tube is the largest round size, other tubes are oval "Strongbox" style ala Diamondback. I have not changed the cogs yet. I WAS gonna change the chain and cassette. Instead, I will swap in an internal hub, so no need to worry about bike chain alignment anymore. Unsure if it'll be NuVinci or Sturmey-Archer.
I use a two-legged bikestand like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Pyramid-Sunlite-Double-Kickstand/dp/B000AO9Z7K
If I place a two-by-four block of wood under the stand, I can check chain/cassette alignment, also change either front or rear wheels.
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5-7,
You and I are now in the same boat about keeping it under 20mph. Friday I went for a long ride, got lost and ended up stripping out my Staton Gear Box. Of course it happened when was about 50 miles from home. Had to do the duck and chuck. (find a person with a truck) throw the bike in the back and hop in.
Got back tore down the gearbox. Pinion gear has all its teeth missing on half the length of the clutch drum shaft gear, and one of the three stamped spur gears in the gearbox has half of its teeth eaten off. The three stamped gear shaft is also prematurely worn, and the hubs on the gears are warped. Looks like from over torque/acceleration.
Anyway...........................................
Rebuilt it with only one gear instead of three, to catch the only teeth left available on the clutch drum shaft gear. I placed three large washers on the shaft in the gearbox to compensate for the space the other two stamped gears took. I don't think it is going to last too much longer, but I rode it this morning to Mc Donalds. Keeping it under 20mph.
How do you guys like that 5:1 pocket bike transmission? Is it quieter than your Staton gearbox?
David Staton told me to look online for a large spur gear for the gearbox that would replace the three stamped gears that came with the gearbox.
I have no idea to where to even look.
I'm still rollin, but my ride is limpin.
Thanks,
You and I are now in the same boat about keeping it under 20mph. Friday I went for a long ride, got lost and ended up stripping out my Staton Gear Box. Of course it happened when was about 50 miles from home. Had to do the duck and chuck. (find a person with a truck) throw the bike in the back and hop in.
Got back tore down the gearbox. Pinion gear has all its teeth missing on half the length of the clutch drum shaft gear, and one of the three stamped spur gears in the gearbox has half of its teeth eaten off. The three stamped gear shaft is also prematurely worn, and the hubs on the gears are warped. Looks like from over torque/acceleration.
Anyway...........................................
Rebuilt it with only one gear instead of three, to catch the only teeth left available on the clutch drum shaft gear. I placed three large washers on the shaft in the gearbox to compensate for the space the other two stamped gears took. I don't think it is going to last too much longer, but I rode it this morning to Mc Donalds. Keeping it under 20mph.
How do you guys like that 5:1 pocket bike transmission? Is it quieter than your Staton gearbox?
David Staton told me to look online for a large spur gear for the gearbox that would replace the three stamped gears that came with the gearbox.
I have no idea to where to even look.
I'm still rollin, but my ride is limpin.
Thanks,
5
5-7HEAVEN
Guest
Sorry to hear about your misfortune, Bonefish.
I like the 5:1 gearbox. It is easy to work on, readily available and CHEAP, about $25.00 including clutch drum. Mine is much quieter as my Staton 18.75:1 gearbox.
I believe Staton is using your 6.9:1 gearbox in his axle-mounted kits.
Leaning towards using what Hawaii Ed calls "the elegant solution", a NuVinci hub. My bike weighs 57lbs fully loaded. I should still be able to carry it upstairs to my apartment with the NuVinci hub.
I like the 5:1 gearbox. It is easy to work on, readily available and CHEAP, about $25.00 including clutch drum. Mine is much quieter as my Staton 18.75:1 gearbox.
I believe Staton is using your 6.9:1 gearbox in his axle-mounted kits.
Leaning towards using what Hawaii Ed calls "the elegant solution", a NuVinci hub. My bike weighs 57lbs fully loaded. I should still be able to carry it upstairs to my apartment with the NuVinci hub.
5-7,
Not sure if Staton's Axle mount uses the same gears. I looked at his website and it shows his axle mount has a gear ratio of 5:1 instead of 61. Also he suggested that I "check online" for a solid one piece gear to replace the three stamped inferior gears that came with his gearbox.
I have not heard back from him, when I asked him what MFG websites I should check into to find such a gear.
Anyway.......................................
Looking forward to your utilization of an internal geared hub if you decide to do it. That still is not going to help the drive chain falling off the outer drive ring though, but using steel loops on the outer and the inner of the chain drive ring sounds like a good idea if you can make it work.
Here is a link of someone that has done the same thing with steel loops on the sprockets using the gearbox I use. He also incorporated a Sturmey Archer Internal Geared Hub. He is a good ship that might be able to give you some input on your steel loop chain guides.
http://www.motoredbikes.com/showthread.php?t=9147
Check third pict. for steel loop chain guides.
I do feel though if you can somehow add a tensioner if you have not already done so will be the best way of solving the constant loosening of the chain.
It is odd as ****, I do not know what causes the chain to loosen on mine as well, but that tensioner takes up the slack quick and I have no more problems after a quick adjustment. I enclosed a pict. of how I have mine mounted. It is fixed on mine, but If I had a spring, I wouldn't even have to adjust it. I just can not find a spring at Lowes or Home Depot. Something will come along.
Hope this helps,
Right now I'm nursing mine. It still is going, I just got back from riding to lunch on it, but I'm very afraid If I give it too much, I will strip out what little left I have in there.
Not sure if Staton's Axle mount uses the same gears. I looked at his website and it shows his axle mount has a gear ratio of 5:1 instead of 61. Also he suggested that I "check online" for a solid one piece gear to replace the three stamped inferior gears that came with his gearbox.
I have not heard back from him, when I asked him what MFG websites I should check into to find such a gear.
Anyway.......................................
Looking forward to your utilization of an internal geared hub if you decide to do it. That still is not going to help the drive chain falling off the outer drive ring though, but using steel loops on the outer and the inner of the chain drive ring sounds like a good idea if you can make it work.
Here is a link of someone that has done the same thing with steel loops on the sprockets using the gearbox I use. He also incorporated a Sturmey Archer Internal Geared Hub. He is a good ship that might be able to give you some input on your steel loop chain guides.
http://www.motoredbikes.com/showthread.php?t=9147
Check third pict. for steel loop chain guides.
I do feel though if you can somehow add a tensioner if you have not already done so will be the best way of solving the constant loosening of the chain.
It is odd as ****, I do not know what causes the chain to loosen on mine as well, but that tensioner takes up the slack quick and I have no more problems after a quick adjustment. I enclosed a pict. of how I have mine mounted. It is fixed on mine, but If I had a spring, I wouldn't even have to adjust it. I just can not find a spring at Lowes or Home Depot. Something will come along.
Hope this helps,
Right now I'm nursing mine. It still is going, I just got back from riding to lunch on it, but I'm very afraid If I give it too much, I will strip out what little left I have in there.
