Should my carb plug look like this or that?

[inspectorcritic]

You can see how low down stock carb is to the HP carb that is flooding like mad.
Now what could be the problem is the stock throttle cable well not interchange with HP that has twice the spring length and strength.

I used carb cleaner so eliminate that, what do you think?

 

[YetiWoodz]

When mine flooded, the culprit was a tiny hole in my float which caused the float to fill up with gas and so it can't float anymore and was unable to push up the float needle to stop the flow of gas from the tank once the bowl is filled.

 

[Chainlube]

You can see how low down stock carb is to the HP carb that is flooding like mad.
Now what could be the problem is the stock throttle cable well not interchange with HP that has twice the spring length and strength.

I used carb cleaner so eliminate that, what do you think?

Not sure what the issue is, but it looks like it was installed with a hammer.

 

[inspectorcritic]

Alrighty then got it figured out.
I found the throttle cable about 10 to 15 mm longer put it in it match the stock carb position turn the gas on flooded like sonofabitch took bowl cover off check the butterfly and floats then check the check valve it was missing always when flooding check the check valve in fact first thing to check the check valve maybe that's why they call it that a chit reminder.

The carb either CT 70 or a XL 70 but I might be in luck got another carb I can vulture.

 

[inspectorcritic]

Another illment I have discovered heard it mention on this forum a few times the engine is flooding not the carb but the engine itself gas is pissing out the exhaust won't start.

I took the bowl off again turned it upside down and the damn needle chute fell into my hand the thing just unscrewed itself off. Screwed it back in motor started up took off!

 

[Karl Snarl]

I use saw carbs. One im using now has a 26mm bore 23mm venturi. Works amazingly well vs the 18-20mm venturi saw carbs i was using. Now the smaller of the two is best on a piston port. I now use g2 reeds on most builds and moved up to the bigger carb. On eBay they are about 30 bucks. Advantage is no fuel bow or float to worry about. No jets to change. All adjustments to a/f mix and idle are done with 3 screws on the outside. You will normally have to make your own cable and throttle linkage, but thats easy enough. Oh and a manifold plate too.

 

[Frogslayer]

I use saw carbs. One im using now has a 26mm bore 23mm venturi. Works amazingly well vs the 18-20mm venturi saw carbs i was using. Now the smaller of the two is best on a piston port. I now use g2 reeds on most builds and moved up to the bigger carb. On eBay they are about 30 bucks. Advantage is no fuel bow or float to worry about. No jets to change. All adjustments to a/f mix and idle are done with 3 screws on the outside. You will normally have to make your own cable and throttle linkage, but thats easy enough. Oh and a manifold plate too.

What about the vacuum hole and pump?

 

[Frogslayer]

What about the vacuum hole and pump?

What manifold? Straight to the Reed box?

 

[Karl Snarl]

What manifold? Straight to the Reed box?

No need for a return. Pump hole is on the back side of carb on the intake side, just a little notch to the intake hole and its good. Normally i cut the tube off the manifold that came with the g2 and just take a 7/8 15/16th reamer and chuck it up in the drill press. Then notch where the port for the pump is. But if i have to male a linkage, i cut a piece of flat steel and use that instead.

 

[Karl Snarl]

What manifold? Straight to the Reed box?

Remind me and I'll post a link to the carb i like best when i get off work. Ill get some pics of the set up for you too. So you get and easier idea of what i mean.