This project is taking a while (cash flow).
Slowly but surely . . .
- Thread starter Randall
- Start date
Chainlube
Well-Known Member
Ha ha, I went through the whole thread, great bike. Somehow I missed the second last photo. Are you just going to put a fender washer over the bearing to protect it, then put the bolt back on?
Randall
Active Member
Thats okay.
I think I am going to have to get a machine shop to lower the shelf inside the hub to bring the bearings slightly below the face of the hub. I think. I'm not sure. I used a nylock locking nut to hold the axle from moving side to side, but that seemed to not work. They got loose or something. I know I am doing something wrong just can't seem to figure out what it is. May have to have a bike shop mechanic help me.
Chainlube
Well-Known Member
Maybe you're running a little too much power for that wheel, I like your idea of the motorcycle wheel. A Honda CT110 wheel is about 24" in diameter and has a drum brake. Thoughts?
Randall
Active Member
No, it is the axle nuts hitting against the bearing. I don't have it assembled correctly. A 24" wheel wouldn't work as I am running 26"ers. I don't want to change the size configuration. I am just going to take the wheel into a bike shop and see if they know what I am doing wrong. Thanks anyway.
5-7HEAVEN
Well-Known Member
Hi Randall.
Yours seems like a simple problem, I think.
Basically, the dropouts need to contact the bearings’ inner races, and never the outer races.
Install a washer or more between bearings and dropouts.
Be sure they are small enough so they don’t contact the outer races.
I’ve seen flanged bearings that have inner races sticking outward a bit.
Those would work without washers or spacers.
Im really enjoying your build, Randall.
Im doing a 212 build, slowly too.
Thanks for your tips in your build.
Yours seems like a simple problem, I think.
Basically, the dropouts need to contact the bearings’ inner races, and never the outer races.
Install a washer or more between bearings and dropouts.
Be sure they are small enough so they don’t contact the outer races.
I’ve seen flanged bearings that have inner races sticking outward a bit.
Those would work without washers or spacers.
Im really enjoying your build, Randall.
Im doing a 212 build, slowly too.
Thanks for your tips in your build.
Randall
Active Member
CrazyDan
Well-Known Member
It does look like the outer bearing race is spinning in the hub causing that wear pattern. To continue using this hub you might need to use something to lock the outer race to the hub, or else it will just continue to spin in the hub. I bet if you check the bearing fitment it has a little slop. How easy is it to press in, or does it just fall right in?
Randall
Active Member
Well both bearings fit in pretty tight so not sure about slop. I think the nut that I had to secure the axle was rubbing against the hub and that is what caused the wear. So I think 5-7 Heaven has the right idea. That nut wasn't pushed against the inner race.
Randall
Active Member
Randall
Active Member
Ordered this axle:
Amazon.com : transformparts Bike Bicycle Rear Axle 3/8 x240mm 26tpi MTB Fat Bike Hub Cones Locknuts Washers Set : Sports & Outdoors
Amazon.com : transformparts Bike Bicycle Rear Axle 3/8 x240mm 26tpi MTB Fat Bike Hub Cones Locknuts Washers Set : Sports & Outdoors
www.amazon.com
Links to Amazon may include affiliate code. If you click on an Amazon link and make a purchase, this forum may earn a small commission.
