Source for stock NE-5 carb needle valves?

D

del

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Howdy, friends,

After taking some time out to deal with cataract surgery (things went great!). I'm finally getting back to working on optimizing the gas mileage on my '07 NE-5.

I've gathered some parts for "serious" mileage testing, and am waiting for more parts for my test lash-up to arrive. But when I last fooled around with the carb, I lowered the needle to as lean as it would go. The bike ran a bunch better after I leaned it out. But I still don't feel like I got it to full lean. She still sounds and runs like she's a bit rich to me...

So, does anyone know where I can get leaner needles and/or jets for the stock NE-5 22mm carb?

--del
 

RdKryton

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You may want to rethink going too lean. Lean = Heat Not good for air cooled engines at all. Keep an eye on the exhaust pipe where it comes out of the exhaust manifold. If it starts turning a gold color or even worse a blue color it is running too lean and can cause serious damage to your engine. You have to find a balance because too rich will also damage your engine. Too much raw fuel will wash the oil from your rings causing severe cylinder, piston, and ring damage. You will find the best fuel economy will come from an engine that is set up correctly. It sometimes takes a while to get them dialed in so good luck. I hope this info helps.

Jim

congrats on the cataract surgery and some of the Whizzer vendors here may help you with jets. Quenton, Bill, and Mike may be able to fix you up.
 
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Quenton Guenther

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What Jim said! If the 22 MM carburetor is original [Whizzer] and you are running the needle all the way down, something is off. 99% of all correctly jetted Whizzer carburetors will have the needle centered or down one [clip in second groove from the top]. The main jet on earlier NE motors were #95 [some checked at #98], on the later NE motors the main jet was changed to a #88. 99% of all Whizzer 22 MM carburetors use from a #84 to a #88. The "hot" motors run better on the #88, the average likes the #86, and the others thrive better on the #84. "Hot" doesn't always mean modified, but once in a while, for no apparant reason, a motor will stand out from the rest of the pack. I know the major reason this happens, and I will post the information soon on this site. Most likely the main jet won't be marked, unless it is some of the #88 used in the later carburetors. Another factor to consider is the distance above sea level, and humidity. You might also check the float level in your carburetor. It wouldn't hurt to also check the lifter clearance to make sure the valves are on target.
Hope this information is helpful.

Whizzer OuterBanks,
Quenton
 

bill green

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Hi Del Quention is right on with the jetting tips .. If you want better fuel milage up your compression by milling .070 off the head .It gives you A better fuel burn and more torq.. torq = better mpg. Hope this helps Bill Green Vancouver Whizzer
 
D

del

Guest
Thanks for the info, good thought.

Has anyone installed an exhaust gas temperature gage on on of these things?

If so, does anyone know what the optimum EGT is? For 2-strokes I've read never let it get above 1200F.

If not, do folks just go by colors on the spark plug?

It strikes me that if you wait for the exhaust pipe to turn blue, you might have already done some damage to the engine...

--del


You may want to rethink going too lean. Lean = Heat Not good for air cooled engines at all. Keep an eye on the exhaust pipe where it comes out of the exhaust manifold. If it starts turning a gold color or even worse a blue color it is running too lean and can cause serious damage to your engine. You have to find a balance because too rich will also damage your engine. Too much raw fuel will wash the oil from your rings causing severe cylinder, piston, and ring damage. You will find the best fuel economy will come from an engine that is set up correctly. It sometimes takes a while to get them dialed in so good luck. I hope this info helps.

Jim

congrats on the cataract surgery and some of the Whizzer vendors here may help you with jets. Quenton, Bill, and Mike may be able to fix you up.
 
D

del

Guest
Howdy, Bill,

Hmmmm... I could mill off the head... But, somehow, your idea seems to violate the first law of thermo-dynamics... More torque from the engine means that the engine is producing more energy. How is it possible to produce to produce more energy while burning less fuel?

Something doesn't seem quite right.

--del


Hi Del Quention is right on with the jetting tips .. If you want better fuel milage up your compression by milling .070 off the head .It gives you A better fuel burn and more torq.. torq = better mpg. Hope this helps Bill Green Vancouver Whizzer
 
D

del

Guest
Thanks, Quenton, Good info as always.

Here's what happened... I got the bike home from the dealer and, other problems aside, it ran rough. The needle was set in the most-rich of the three grooves. So I lowered it a notch. It ran better, but was still rough. So I took it to the last notch leaner. It ran even better, but it still isn't quite right.

I'll check out the rest of your suggestion theis weekend.

--del
 

bill green

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Hi del 07 NE5 run stock 90 pounds compression that is low even for A flat head . They run much cleaner at aprox. 130 PSI . Milling .070 gets you about that compression .. Both Quention and myself have the latest version head that also work better and we both have mills .I hope this helps you ....Bill Green
 
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