FNTPuck
Well-Known Member
- Local time
- 4:00 AM
- Joined
- Jul 2, 2018
- Messages
- 855
Since my situation was the same, and the piston wouldnt even reach solder to measure, this is what I did.
I knew that I was reshaping my head, so wanted a 0 deck. I lightly TQd the jug with no head on it finger tight then brought he piston to BDC. I then used the depth checker on my calipers to see how far in the hole the piston was. Note that the piston is tapered, so the center will stick up farther them the edge that we are measuring (with the proper head that isn't an issue, but something to note). I then took that dept gauge and brought it to the outside edge of the jug that sticks up, and marked on the outside part where 0 deck would end up. I made the same line on all 4 sides of the jug, then used the sander to remove the material evenly on all 4 sides.
As for the tools, you don't need a $2000 snapon toolbox to work on these - can easily get a nice setup slowly over time. My calipers are just cheap digital ~$15 chinese ones that I bought and expected to not last and 10 years later they are still kicking. My belt sander is nice, but its old and was purchased second hand on craigslist for like $60 (normally a $150 one). A lot of times its better to get an old used name brand power tool than a new knockoff at the same price since the quality and performance difference can be massive. Good example is my $60 used belt sander is many times more powerful, larger, and has more adjustability than the old Harbor Freight ~$70 one I used to have. That one would bog down if I sanded thick walled steel, this one doesn't even flinch at it.
Where are you located? I am in FL and if you are not anywhere crazy and can pay shipping both ways, just mark the jug where you need it and I will remove the material evenly for you and send it back for free. You do NOT want to try to mill 1.5+mm off a steel sleeved jug by hand. Even a stock aluminum jug would be a pain to take that much off of...a slevved one would go through a ton of sandpaper and your arm will be sore for weeks
I knew that I was reshaping my head, so wanted a 0 deck. I lightly TQd the jug with no head on it finger tight then brought he piston to BDC. I then used the depth checker on my calipers to see how far in the hole the piston was. Note that the piston is tapered, so the center will stick up farther them the edge that we are measuring (with the proper head that isn't an issue, but something to note). I then took that dept gauge and brought it to the outside edge of the jug that sticks up, and marked on the outside part where 0 deck would end up. I made the same line on all 4 sides of the jug, then used the sander to remove the material evenly on all 4 sides.
As for the tools, you don't need a $2000 snapon toolbox to work on these - can easily get a nice setup slowly over time. My calipers are just cheap digital ~$15 chinese ones that I bought and expected to not last and 10 years later they are still kicking. My belt sander is nice, but its old and was purchased second hand on craigslist for like $60 (normally a $150 one). A lot of times its better to get an old used name brand power tool than a new knockoff at the same price since the quality and performance difference can be massive. Good example is my $60 used belt sander is many times more powerful, larger, and has more adjustability than the old Harbor Freight ~$70 one I used to have. That one would bog down if I sanded thick walled steel, this one doesn't even flinch at it.
Where are you located? I am in FL and if you are not anywhere crazy and can pay shipping both ways, just mark the jug where you need it and I will remove the material evenly for you and send it back for free. You do NOT want to try to mill 1.5+mm off a steel sleeved jug by hand. Even a stock aluminum jug would be a pain to take that much off of...a slevved one would go through a ton of sandpaper and your arm will be sore for weeks
