As the old timer mechanics say, start with all the basics first.....fuel, spark, compression, timing.....
If I were to just throw something out there (AND i AM JUST THROWING IT OUT), it doesn't sound like your needle is properly tapered. IF THE PROBLEM CONTINUES AFTER GOING THROUGH A TANK OR TWO OF FUEL - Pull the needle/slide assembly out of the top of the carb and look at the taper. The taper itself should not be sharp (of course the tip is sharp) - it should be a nice gradual slope. If you are skilled you can re-taper it so very slightly in a power drill with emery paper. But DON'T GO SANDING ON YOUR NEEDLE UNLESS YOU ARE CERTAIN THE TAPER IS NOT CORRECT.
YOU DO NEED TO BE AWARE THESE ENGINES TAKE QUITE SOME TIME TO BREAK IN AND WILL GAIN POWER IF ALL TUNING IS CORRECT.
Riddle me this 1: What does your plug look like after a run?
Riddle me this 2: Do you see any leakage around the plug or head gasket?
If I were to just throw something out there (AND i AM JUST THROWING IT OUT), it doesn't sound like your needle is properly tapered. IF THE PROBLEM CONTINUES AFTER GOING THROUGH A TANK OR TWO OF FUEL - Pull the needle/slide assembly out of the top of the carb and look at the taper. The taper itself should not be sharp (of course the tip is sharp) - it should be a nice gradual slope. If you are skilled you can re-taper it so very slightly in a power drill with emery paper. But DON'T GO SANDING ON YOUR NEEDLE UNLESS YOU ARE CERTAIN THE TAPER IS NOT CORRECT.
YOU DO NEED TO BE AWARE THESE ENGINES TAKE QUITE SOME TIME TO BREAK IN AND WILL GAIN POWER IF ALL TUNING IS CORRECT.
Riddle me this 1: What does your plug look like after a run?
Riddle me this 2: Do you see any leakage around the plug or head gasket?
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