Starrman15's vent

Discussion in 'Rack Mounted Engines' started by Starrman15, Aug 5, 2007.

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  1. Starrman15

    Starrman15 Guest

    Just got in from grocery after work.
    (I am a guitarist & singer)

    Very surprised & pleased!
    Believe me, I'll check everything out as I become familiar with the site.

    Again I do not want to "trash" or put down any particular business.
    Just attempting to combine my passion for bicycles & dirt-bikes & motorcycles....(you get the idea)

    I also have a passion for excercise & my favorite form of cardio is cycling.
    At 48 years of age I have found cycling to be the best way for me to trim down between my lifting days at the gym.
    Also the excercise really helps my vocal strength.

    That is why I am not interested in purchasing a "pure" motorcycle.
    I like them,but Ohio weather is not that kind to the motorcyclist unless you are just die-hard about riding vs. automobile.

    I desire a motorized bicycle for many reasons.
    And this has become a quest! HA HA!

    1. Sometimes you just don't feel up to pedaling on a hot day.
    But the engine will get you out & you will get some exercise.

    2. Sometimes you ride 15 to 20 miles one way invigiorated & then realize
    "Hey I am tired & it's getting dark & could use some help getting home!"

    3. I am just not a "bike rack guy"
    Never will be.

    4. I want to be able to commute reasonable distances 20 to 30 miles
    motorized & have the option of turning the motor off for exercise at will.

    If not, my motorized bike will give me some exercise & the pleasure of
    going where cars & motorcycles can't & enjoying God's beautiful creation.

    Also, caring about others (AN EXAMPLE WOULD BE BIKE TRAILS...I
    do not use the GEBE on the trails out of respect & noise levels.
    Contrary to what GEBE tells you, the engines are LOUD!

    5. For the motorized aspect of the bicycle I desire some real power
    & speed.
    I do not want to sacrifice one for the other & do not believe you have to.

    6. Traffic conditions warrant (temporarily) some power & speed since every now & then we Bicycle riders pull up to a traffic light at a conjested intersection to get us where no bike trail or sidewalk exists.

    And how about that WALK SIGN at traffic lights?
    How many of you have stood there....waited for the sign to say "walk"
    & have almost been run over by drivers on cell phones turning right on red etc.
    They could care less about the "WALK" signal!

    Bottom line, I have found it better in most situations (except 5 O'Clock Traffic) to get in the lane you need to be in & just abide by traffic rules (visibility permitting of course) then get out of everyones way.

    7. Well, thank you for wading through my post.

    BTW, Bike Lights!!
    I am open & would like anyone who cares to turn me on to a product they feel good about!
    Besides a great mirror, lights are very important.
    There are so many products out there I am confused as which type & brand of light system to purchase.

    Again thanks & a great day to everyone!

  2. Starrman15

    Starrman15 Guest

    Thanks...but I need to politely vent

    I will try & get to the GEBE rant thread as soon as I finish this note.

    First & formost I want to say "thank you" for all the support & info I have received in less than 24 hours!!
    You all are really good people.

    The next thing I want to say is that after a year of "tweaking" personal work,
    & putting my almost 80 year old father (a great mechanic with almost every tool & know how known to man) up to the task of mounting that darn GEBE bike engine kit after I failed......remember the popular mechanics article....
    what B.S.....& I needed about 12 beers to soothe my aching pocket book & nerves......
    We have achieved success as far as adapting said bicycle to their product.

    So Starrman you may ask....what is your problem with GEBE then?

    WELL, I will be honest with you all.
    IMO, it is a work in progress & a VERY costly one!

    If anyone out there does like this engine, then that is great.
    I have a fine one to sell you cheap.
    It just does not meet my needs.
    VERY underpowered for the price.

    But GEBE keeps trying to tell me it is "what I need"
    & All is fine"
    That thing is SO tempermental it is ridiculous!!
    And they have accused me of putting too much oil in it or voiding the warranty by using STABIL.
    But hey, the thing won't run without FUEL STABIL!!

    Bottom line, if it worked perfectly, I would not want it.
    Because I want & need more speed & power.
    They pushed me away from the 40 cc Tanaka.

    You know, you can't go to a Golden Eagle Dealership & test drive all of their engines mounted on demo bikes.
    If something like that existed I would never have purchased the Robin Subaru. is a crapshoot & I lost.
    If the thing only cost 2 to 300 dollars max then that is not SUCH a big deal.
    Still alot of money though...
    But $629.00 dollars & I am not going to go into the problems & learning curve involved with this engine over the past year!

    Well, they ought to tell you a few of their secrets when they sell you one of these 4 stroke Robins!
    & try to get a spark plug for one of these engines....good luck!!

    I also purchased one of their wheels & axles which I do not regret but a costly purchase nonetheless.

    So I decide I want the Tanaka 40 CC.
    & I have not gotten out from under the Robin yet....
    They tell me that they want list price for the Tanaka 40 cc engine without the GEBE CLUTCH!!

    That is ridiculous!
    What good is a Tanaka 40 cc engine to be used in concert with the GEBE kit without the clutch??
    Also, I can buy the same engine in town for almost 100 dollars less!

    But they informed me of how to take the GEBE clutch off the Robin & mount it on the Tanaka.
    Now what what in the world do I want with an almost $600.00 dollar Robin 35 cc "doorstop"??

    This is what I call "Customer No Service" & a slap in the face!

    OK, thanks for the therapy!
    I realize more important issues are at work in the world than a bicycle engine.

    Bottom line, I think I know how to fix the problem but I am not going to spend another 4 to 500 dollars at GEBE.
    Something has to be done with this Robin & I will not just "eat it"

    My options are to go into a completely different direction or sell the Robin for a paltry sum.

    Also, is the clutch design on GEBE bike engines a patent?
    It sort of reminds me of this little Honda mini-bike I had in around 71'

    If I can work around them I will or just completely change direction
    in motorizing a bicycle.

    Again, thanks for listening!
    Starrman 15
    Last edited by a moderator: Aug 6, 2007
  3. smapadatha

    smapadatha Guest

    First, I'm sorry to hear about your frustrations with the GEBE/kit. As you may discover, I've had my own troubles with GEBE. I have not field tested my GEBE bike yet (still in progress), but all of the parts seem to be high quality. I also bought the R/S 35cc. Everyone (well...almost everyone) who has gotten the kit on a bike successfully seems to have a good opinion of it. However, IMHO, the people at GEBE have a knack for making the smallest thing amazingly complicated.

    Keep a good thought. There's a lot of useful info on this site as you browse around. I have learned a lot here.

    IMHO, since we all have engines on our bikes, the weight of a lighting system is less important. And if weight is not a factor, I think cobbling together your own lighting system is best. It is so easy that even a software guy like me can do it! I bought a 12 volt tractor light (you read that correctly) from Pep boys for about $20, and a 12v 5.2 Amp hour sealed lead acid battery from a local shop ($25). I connected the two with some simple wiring (the tractor light has a built-in switch) and ... it is awesome. I also spent $55 on a *really* nice 1.2 amp trickle recharger, which recharges my battery in about 4 hours.

    I needed a seriously bright light because I ride at night. I had some overpriced LED nonsense that probably did make me somewhat visible, but did nothing to help *me* see the road at night. My tractor light is so bright that, on more than one occasion, people have assumed that a car was approaching. I had this mounted on my old non-GEBE bike and it would brightly light an approximately 14' x 14' square just in front of my front tire (that was not a typo: 14 feet x 14 feet, brightly lit square).

    It was mounted to a cheap handlebar basket it such a way that it handled vibration/bouncing quite well. The battery was in a knapsack (along with my bike tools and stuff) that was also in the handlebar basket. It was a neat system. I would post pics but I have it all disassembled while I transfer it to my GEBE-bike (in progress). I may upgrade to a 12 volt halogen from Harbor Freight with a metal housing (mine is plastic), but I am totally sold on the 12 volt homemade lighting system.

    This is what I've bought for my rear light (not hooked up yet)

    A local electronics dude gave me a circuit for making it blink, and I will post that if I have some time.

    There is always a 50% probability that things will improve!

  4. 5-7HEAVEN

    5-7HEAVEN Guest

    :cool:i have less than 100 miles on my ROBIN 35cc friction drive, but not the GEBE kit. my engine is perfect. well, it might rattle at idle and low speed. for all intents and purpose, it is a perfect match for my 20" DAHON bike.
    sometimes i wonder why i'm replacing the ROBIN with a new MITSUBISHI 2.2hp/gear-chain drive.:rolleyes:
    Starrman, are you driving with your choke on?
  5. bamabikeguy

    bamabikeguy Active Member

    I guess the best way to address this is seperating the bikes part from the engine part first, because Sam's rant and your vent can both be combined for object lessons.

    When I first talked to Dennis and Julia in 2005, it was always intended to be a hobby business, which meant getting some bikes on the road, buzzing around town.

    The first 3 bikes were Wally World $100 Avalons. Poor brakes, infererior derailleur, razor thin saddle, assembled by a guy who worked at McDonalds the previous week, but a lesson I had to experience to get to the next level, building reliable transportation.

    I could not rely on WalMart for help with bikes, and that got me to Paul Watson, at the Peddler in Decatur, who carried the Sun Line. I bought a coaster brake model, found the Retro 7 in the catalog and ordered a red one, and have been hooked on that brand ever since, because it has everything Schwinn has for as much as a $100 less.

    2.125 tires give some folks headaches, rubbing the belt, but I've got it down now, and fingernail polish instead of Loctite is such a simple clean solution I learned HERE I could never endure long trips on thinner tires.

    I learned about 12 gauge spokes the hard way, broke 1, then popped 2 more in another mile. From that experience, I would NEVER snap a spokering on a cheap stock wheel. I quickly retro fitted my few customers with the heavier spokes. Never had a problem since, except rust, because I use the cheapest steel version of 12 gauge.

    Don't want rust? Spend more than $35 and get aluminum.

    Winter 2006 is when GEBE did the belt/gear upgrade, a great improvement, again I retrofitted my folks with the taller mounts and heavier belts. I wanted all the bikes to be up to date, and then I wouldn't have to carry two types of parts.

    Way back then it was suggested that instead of a straight screwdriver slot on the end of the driveshaft, put an Allen's hole in the end of the shaft, which the newest motors all have. Feedback works.

    When I took the Denver trip, GEBE came through in the pinch on support, I'll tell you that. Taking a long trip? Send some money up to GEBE to hold on your account, so next day air to some little post office in Nowhere OK is guaranteed.

    Motor sizes/types. I've recommended the 25 cc for riders under 200 pounds, the 33 cc Tanaka now for heavier riders.

    I've tried the Tanaka 40 (tooooo much motor in my humble estimation), and the 35 R/S on that Workman Trike.

    The 33 Tanaka is a keeper I'm thinking, if only it had a 48 oz tank !!! I'm ordering a 96 oz. from Staton because I think I'll use a 33 on a long run in the fall.

    Mixing oil is no big deal, at home or on the road. The Denver engine has 5,000 miles and is still using the original plug. Feedback on the 35 R/S will be important, I looked into them but like the 2 cycle idea, seeing the oil instead of relying on a dip stick.

    What can do to help GEBE newbies....

    Emphasize the spokering "centering". If Dennis built your wheel, you can go by a veteranarian and buy a few 60 cc syringes for a buck. Saw off a little over 2/3 or the syringe, then grind down the remaining plastic till it is SNUG in the gap between the ring and the wheel. Notch one end so it slips over a spoke.

    Then, when somebody needs help with an install, you have a "gapper". They could even be mailed to prospects by us, OR Dennis might see the idea and make these 17 cent items en masse for the kits.

    I don't currently have a GEBE wheel, but if I did, I could probably mass produce 50 of them with all the leftover cattle syringes here at the house, send them to Michigan.

    If a person reads of GEBE on, ask for a BAMAGAPPER.

    Emphasize rear wheel/tire/tube modifications, you DO NOT want a flat on the road, especially on the rear. Take that from a guy who got 3 in one day on the way to Florida in Spring 2006, before learning about better tires and Mr. Tuffy tire liners.

    Finally, only one 25cc was broken in improperly, I let a neighbor use it and he put in ethanol. That engine is the one on my "pasture bike", the first coasterbrake Sun I bought. I would never sell an engine that had a drop of ethanol in it.

    Don't use ethanol, don't forget oil mix, and put 150-200 miles on long straightways without jackrabbit starting. It really works.

    Sam's mount modifications seem studied and viable, there is nothing built that fits every situation, back when I complained to Dennis about the front straps, he bulked them up within months, added that angle in the kits to eliminate bending them around posts.

    That's feedback that can be implemented for everybody, proof that GEBE keeps evolving.

    If you are like me and NEVER release the tension arm on the belt, adding a second spring to prevent occasional slippage or hopping works, especially on demonstration bikes where a stranger is wanting the effect without knowing all the little tips.

    Good, new ideas will occur to riders faster on than up at GEBE, they are too busy shipping orders to enjoy riding very much, I suppose.

    GEBE cannot tell you to throw away the spark arrestor on the end of the exhaust, while a private citizen like myself can say "Scr*w the EPA/OSHA or whoever required this thing ...Toss the screen away !!! It will clog in 500-700 miles or so. )

    I'm only going to offer the 2 new versions of the 25 Zenoah and 33 Tanaka, (once they hit the floor).

    But first I must complete that Staton/ Workman project, too many precious funds sitting in Ozone Park NY. THAT is the major vent I have, waiting for 2 tricycles to be delivered "sometime" in the next two months.
  6. Starrman15

    Starrman15 Guest

    40cc Tanaka Fuel Tank vs. Robin 35cc

    Wow, this IS a great thread!
    Quite a bit of info here!

    It was asked if I was running the robin with the choke on.
    No, absolutely not.
    But there were a couple of times I HAD to just to keep it running.
    The fuel stabilizer Dennis reccomended fixed that problem.

    But I every few fill ups need to add some fuel stabilizer.
    Not such a bad thing I guess.
    The word on the street is the grade of fuel were getting here in Dayton Ohio
    is ****.

    The Robin ran like a scalded dog yesterday in incredibly humid & 90 degree temperatures.
    Makes me think twice about selling it but that fuel tank position just drives me up the wall!
    & different strokes for different folks....The robin is just a bit underpowered (for my needs)

    I literally have to pick the bike up & luckily have tree to cram the back end
    into....chock the front tire...then fill er' up!
    I will have to take a pic of this operation for you all to see!

    Now to my question.
    Is the Tanaka's tank in a better position?
    Straight down so whatever the fuel the tank has in it, the engine gets it all.
    I can't tell from the pics of the engine itself.

    I did see a pic & I think it was one of bamabike guys bikes.
    It was a great side shot & it was the Red Max I am almost certain.
    And that is what I am looking for.

    Really interested in the 40 cc Tanaka but maybe the RED MAX is the answer.
    I don't know & am looking to ya' all for all the input & advice you can lend!

    Thanks for listening,
  7. locoWelder

    locoWelder Guest

    Starrman, did you know that can turn the motor where the fuel tank is strait up and down?its not hard at all to do this.:eek:
  8. bamabikeguy

    bamabikeguy Active Member

    This is the Tanaka 33 and Zenoah 25 tank placements.

    That was a major concern when choosing not to handle the 35 R/S. You could dangle a small funnel off the cap, tied it to the neck??

    How much do you weigh?

    The 25 cc get's me (180 lbs) up to 34 mph on the straightaway, when I ran a 40 the fastest I got was 35, and the 33 Tanaka is just as fast.

    Just my opinion, but that 40 cc is way more than a bike needs, unless you plan on pulling a concrete mixer, cattle hauler or airstream camper behind it.

    Attached Files:

  9. Starrman15

    Starrman15 Guest

    Now THATS what I'm looking for!

    Thanks bamabikeguy!

    Let me go jump on the scale....I weigh 216 at the moment.

    The Tanaka 40cc sounds like a winner.
    I really would like more power than the Robin delivers.
    Not just speed.
    I have to run it almost flat out too much.

    BTW, I purchased A new wheel from GEBE Dennis reccomended & he put the ring on himself & sent it to me last September.
    It is supposed to be able to handle the tourqe of these engines.
  10. bamabikeguy

    bamabikeguy Active Member

    Okay, I love when advise is completely disregarded.

    When you get the 40cc Tanaka, the break in is MOST important, a lot more than any of the other engines.

    YOU MUST break it in similar to a motorcycle, varied speeds over varied time sequences.

    10 seconds at 3/4 throttle.
    20 seconds at half
    15 at full etc......

    There was a airplane mechanic on board this winter who had the recommended sequences of an engine, which serves as a guide.

    Hard for impatient types like myself to adjust to, but that sucka would run.

    btw: back to gas, use only name brand types, no "Joe's gas", but patronize the Big Boys like Amoco and Standard.
  11. Starrman15

    Starrman15 Guest


    Well, that nickle I save at speedway Might be the problem!

    I'll give that a shot.

  12. bamabikeguy

    bamabikeguy Active Member

    Dad had an Amoco for 10 years, people would drive 20 miles to get Amoco White (midgrade).

    I've never used a JetPep or convenience store gas. I avoid Texaco, but in Kansas where the choices were limited, I had to.

    btw: I just noticed Golden Eagle is in the ad part of the site, (never look at that side of the screen) When did THAT happen ??? (well, now I saw the sticky in Intro about Golden Eagle sponsoring---> what do they think? Inferior gas seems the most likely culprit here )

    My vision is deteriorating !!! (serious, lost my best reading glasses and am using a pair with lens the size of a postage stamp, Dollar General induced "tunnel vision")

    Good, now Vaughn can take care of you overweight venters and ranters, I'll help the happy GEBErs', who lose weight with minimum peddling !!

    Joshin' ya, Starr, but I have a few 250 pounders on the 25cc Zenoah with Trail gear.

    NO ETHANOL, no Generic gas, midlevel 89-91 octane until breakin period is over (150--200 miles), then lower your octane when things improve.

    Make sure the pump says NO CORN !!!
    Last edited: Aug 8, 2007
  13. Starrman15

    Starrman15 Guest

    Who is Vaughn??

    I had an E reply a year ago from someone at GEBE that was VERY detailed.
    It was not Dennis.

    I might need to contact this person for some questons without incurring Julia's (IMO unwarranted & needless rant)
    I have spent alot of money over there & intend to spend more.
    But GEBE led me here to begin with.
    With this forum/site that might not be necessary.

    No offense takin' bamabikeguy!
    Sure wish I knew how to upload a few pics.
    I think I am slightly more "svelte" than my lbs. would indicate!
    But that is why I went with GEBE.
    I am an exercise nut & wanted something that could be completely disengaged & be a normal bicycle!

    OK, no more cheap gas from now on.
    Never knew there was a difference anyway but obviously a 1 cylinder engine can tell!

    Well, speaking of that, I'm off in 94 degree heat on the GEBE to the gym!

    Thanks again for all the info,
    Starrman 15

    BTW, I think I figured the "pic" thing out!

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  14. locoWelder

    locoWelder Guest

    If its not Union 76 it dosen't go in my tank ;)
  15. smapadatha

    smapadatha Guest

    Can this be done with the Robin/Subaru engines, or is it limited to the Tanaka models?

  16. Starrman15

    Starrman15 Guest

    Fuel Tank on the Robin Subaru 35cc

    I looked at the thing real hard today & that fuel tank ain't & was not meant to go anywhere but where it is mounted.

    Tanaka & I am asumming the Red Max companies thought this issue through I guess because the tanks are or can be placed where they perform best.

    Where the fuel tank was situated on the Robin was the last thing on my mind
    when I put my first motorized bike together.
    (Yes, I know...this is MY FAULT)

    BUT I pose this thought/question out to all you GEBE vets.

    Would it....COULD it be possible to fuel turn the tank AROUND 180 degrees & remount it so you fill it from the front instead of the back?
    Would it line up the same?

    I realize that you would need to replace the fuel line with a longer one.
    That should be fairly easy.

    Any input would be greatly appreciated!
    Starrman 15
  17. Starrman15

    Starrman15 Guest

    Engine Idle

    Well, I am going to be honest & describe my experience from earlier today.
    The Robin quit on me twice & I was......upset!!
    I have been dealing with this problem off & on since I started riding again
    after the winter months.

    And NO I didn't winterize mistake but it ran just fine for about 5 weeks then it wouldn't start at all.
    Thats when Dennis reccomended fuel Stabilizer & slowly but surely things got better.
    But it does die on me every now & then.

    Now it only quits & when it DOES quit is when I am sitting at an idle.
    Never while accelerating.
    So I thought "here we go again...better grab the ol' fuel stabil"
    When it does this, the stabil is the only cure.

    Then, a light bulb from my distant past of pushing lawnmowers came on
    inexplicably.....maybe because I was so hot!

    Anyway, I asked myself this question:
    "Have you ever adjusted the engine idle since you purchased the engine?"
    Answer, "NO!"

    So I primed the thing, took the handy-dandy all in one phillips/sparkplug
    remover wrench, started it up & adjusted the idle by ear.
    I set it to where it sounded the way I thought it should sound at an idle.

    WHAT a Difference!!
    The engine ran better than it ever has.
    I let my dad listen to it because he is a mechanic.
    He said it sounded fine & the idle probably just slowly vibrated out of whack.
    This is VERY possible because I ride fast & hard & over alot of bumpy terrain.

    Hmm, how will the engine run with quality fuel in it??

    Anyway, just thought I would share something so obvious (probably to most of you)
    Just wish something could be done about the fuel tank.....

  18. Starrman15

    Starrman15 Guest

    Bicycles, Bicycles, etc.

    Maybe I should post this topic under a new thread....but here goes.

    I am looking for a new bike.
    Mine is great but too tall & does not have any front suspension.
    Saw a couple of mongoose Bicycles that are the style I am looking for.
    But are they junk?

    I saw a fairly high priced Schwinn target (no it didn't have that stupid inner curl that eliminates the use of GEBE's ring)
    I went through that horrible experience last year.
    Luckily they took it back.

    This bike is a Schwinn 26" S-60 DSX bike.
    Anyone know anything aboout it?
    It was around $250.00.

    Saw a mongoose xr-75 for $99.00 dollars at Wal-Mart.
    Fit me perfect....but is it junk?
    It was great to be able to put my feet flat on the ground.

    I of course will use my GEBE wheels & other mods.
    I like the front suspension of these 2 bikes & there are many of them out there for us "short guys" that are all similar in this style.

    Since I will be motorizing what I purchase, are there any bikes out there that have a few less gears/bells & whistles?
    I Never use those 2 small sprockets anyway.

    Also what about just buying a frame & moving everthing over from my present bike?
    How costly would this be?

    I HAVE to have some front suspension the way I ride!
    My arms ache everyday!
    Thank the Lord for Aleve!

    Any & all input would be greatly appreciated!

  19. bamabikeguy

    bamabikeguy Active Member

    We're gonna get that thing purring, Starr.

    The reason the gas is important is "name brands" don't add ethanol, and discount brands are FORCED BY GOV'T DECREE to sell it.

    Ethanol is pretty much "unregulated", there is no standard for moisture/water content, and many a automobile will "vapor lock" from a bad batch. Discounters buy on a commodity system, never know what they are getting one month to the next, while name brands have those fancy additives that clean the carburator.

    On our car, we run 3 tanks of 87 octane, avg 24-25 mpg, then put in one full tank of 91 octane Amoco, and rise to 27+mpg, with a distinct change in spark and carberation. "Flushing out the corn".

    On that ride through Kansas and Nebraska last year, I was asking a lot of questions about ethanol, and while farmers grow the corn, but many don't burn it, they have these co-op deals where they can slide a card thru a pump and fill up with good "discounted" 89/91 octane 24/7.

    Not much good to a passing bicyclist looking for good gas. I got a bad batch, vaporlocked for 30 miles, went to a small engine/ATV shop in a town with a single "ethanol" gas station, and got the inside scoop.

    Once I dumped that gas from my tank and my spare canisters, put in his 2 cycle mix, (he had to travel 25 miles to get "brand name" for his chainsaws and such) the problem was solved. He also advised against "octane boosters".

    Later, in Oklahoma, I found entire towns had banned ethanol sales, specifically because of the water content.

    Somebody early on in put the creed in troubleshooting F-A-S. Fuel/air/spark. Look to fuel first, then air (idlescrew) then spark, and these engines are top of the line on spark, so "checking the gap" is really low on the list.

    As to the idle screw- that was factory set at R/Subaru, and it would be a 9 times out of 10 type equation, you got the fluke, and it only took a smidgeon of adjustment to get it right.

    That is where a new engine out of the box has the advantage, you've bought good gas, mixed 50:1 with superior 2 cycle oil, and avoided jackrabbiting during break-in. If you've done all that, and the thing doesn't run right, there are 3 things to look for.

    1. Garbage/blockage in the fuel line
    2. Idle screw adjustment
    3. Cheap gas bought in error (Look to Stihl chainsaws for guidance, one year warranty is void if you use cheap oil mix rather than Stihl's brand, plus ethanol is never used by loggers)

    You have to have hundreds, if not a thousand miles, on that engine for the other 3 culprits to show up.

    1. Clogged spark arrestor screen on the end of the exhaust outlet (why I toss them out right off the bat)
    2. Dirty air filter-very very rare
    3. Carbon buildup on the cylinder walls- especially caused by cheap oil mix.

    And it would be 3-5,000 miles before the sparkplug needed checking. I've checked that a few times, and the spark plug is always clean as a whistle.

    Finally, if you are running fast and fine, and out of the blue the thing will not start, disconnect the kill switch and see if that isn't the problem, rather than the engine.

    Since this post is so long, might as well put my "keeping the money local" philosophy in this.

    If you have a choice, between a franchise gas station and a Mom and Pop who gets a nickel more, buy from Mom and Pop, better for you and them. Same with oil mix, instead of getting it from WallyWorld, find a reputable chainsaw dealer and get a six-pack of the good stuff, they will take an interest in your hobby and give advise on performance issues.
  20. bamabikeguy

    bamabikeguy Active Member

    Mongoose is ****, the brakes are inferior, and they use the cheapest version of a Shimano shifter.

    And the distributor in New Jersey hires only JERKS to handle customer complaints.