Exhaust Suggestions for loose exhaust studs/bolts

I have no stud problems what so ever after my first build..

1) Remove and discard ALL factory studs and nuts (mounts, intake, and exhaust) along with the cylinder studs. Right out of the box.
2) I use grade 8.8 all thread but bolts may be used after removing the heads. They are there if RED is used.
3) ALL my studs are red lock tited (if removal is needed heat is required).
4) Before each stud is installed I measure how deep the stud hole is and then add what I want sticking out of the block, due to the added shim, and extra nut.
5) I double nut the studs and bottom out. (I back off 1/4 to 1/2 turn) No discussion needed as this is how I do it and others do it the way they want.
6) Let sit so the lock tite can dry. Remove the double nuts.
7) I cut some shims (about 1/2" long) so the nuts will stand away from the clamp, exhaust pipe..whatever. Some holes are drilled too close to the accessory as in the exhaust pipe, or clamps. The socket won't set right for proper torque. I have stainless tubes I cut but steel brake line or transmission line or the like can be used. No copper (on exhaust), I'm sure it will crush when heated .

8) When installing the engine, make sure that there is a proper fit between the mount and tube. (see above photo).
9) The first nut on is a standard metric (Grade 8.8) torqued to specs, followed by a lylock nut and jammed.
10) Mounting the muffler should be mounted to the engine if at all possible. Less vibration then mounted on the frame.
11) Do not use tape, rubber or the like between the mounts and tube.

This is how I do it, don't care how others do, as I have NO issues with any stud PERIOD.
Do as you like. Use my advise, others, or both. Ride well and long.
 
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