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- 7:59 PM
- Jan 5, 2020
The only issue I forsee with most saw pistons will actually be the skirt height. The exhaust port floor is pretty low on this 110 cylinder. I checked a couple of Stihl pistons I have sitting around, and they leave a pretty large gap on the bottom when at TDC. The original 110 piston is roughly 22mm from wrist pin center to the bottom of the skirt. The 380 piston I have on hand is about 8mm shorter (rough guess).
Oh I know. My MS460 is quite happy staying below 10k, and usually around 6-7000 when making a cut into anything 12-18" with the 24" bar I have on it. It's got some very mild port work done to it and a 2 chamber muffler, so it isn't even pushing "race saw" power. It and the 660's are close to the same in stroke to these engines, which is probably why they are a popular choice for Frank motors and the basis for the Phantom. I can't imagine having a saw screaming at 12000. That's just crazy to me lol.Saw are piston port and don't have much skirt, I was just noting a 54mm piston. The one good thing about a exact match piston is you can bore the jug to the piston.
Most saws are short stroke 34-38mm, that's how they rev higher. The big saws not so much 9500ish no load speed, even less when it's in wood, as compared to a smaller saw, my 61 has a no load speed at 12,500.
I didn't touch the exhaust port at all. I went for a strong pulling saw more than a screamer. That may be why.Any good bush saw is going to have peak power around 7-10k, if you set it up with the bar off, the no load speed will be considerably higher. I kinda remember seeing in the specs for the 460 that the highest permissible rpm with a bar and chain is 13,500. So you should be running a bit more rpm in the cut with that saw.
I'm not saying anything about the job you did, those are just stock specs. I think you may be underestimating how many "R"s you're pulling when in the wood.I didn't touch the exhaust port at all. I went for a strong pulling saw more than a screamer. That may be why.
I also don't claim to be a saw expert, or 2 stroke expert, by any stretch of the imagination. I am sure somebody other than me could get better results out of it. I just cleaned up and opened up the lower transfers and intake port a bit.
Probably just a buffer pad and some polishing/buffing compound. Comes in a stick, like butter. he mentioned the grits. Slap it in a hand drill and spin on some compound. Then polish away.Can you link to or give a better description as to what you used to polish the head?