The Incredible SHREIKING Whizzer:

Belt Slippage

Hal,

Assuming the belts are reasonably tight, and there is no issue with non-concentricity of the rear sheave (you said there was no run out), I still think it is the clutch output pulley that is slipping. The primary drive has a 2:1 advantage over the clutch output pulley, so the load is considerably lower on the primary drive than on the secondary drive, which forces the load to the small secondary pulley. This is also the pulley that has the least belt wrap.

Like I said it's a balancing act between front and rear. I usually start by tensioning the rear belt to my satisfaction, being sure I haven't got the chain too tight etc, then move to the engine and slide it forward or aft to tighten the front belt, without unduly loosening the rear belt. It may also be possible that you simply don't have enough spring tension on the clutch arm and you may have to crank that up a bit too. Keep feeling the belt tension, assuring that it is balanced for and aft, and as you keep tightening things (clutch arm spring and belts) you will prevail in the end.

The belts need to feel darn tight when you're pinching them. Is the top of the rear belt positioned proud of the clutch pulley OD or is it sunk into the pulley? If it is either flush or sunk down inside the pulley at all it's worn (lost some width) and won't grip anything like a new fresh Gates belt.
 
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To all my helpful friends:

My head is about to explode with all these possible "fixes", but better an overabundance of information than a scarcity of it!

I never thought that belts could be so cantankerous...could I convert to chain drive?

HAL
 
Convert to chain drive

Hal, in a word.........NO........ you have no clutch in the engine, and the clutch you have is belt-drive. I have seen a chain rear-belt front whizzer or two, but they had either Albion or Royal Endfield transmissions with built-in clutch packs.

Learn to adjust, and you will never be stranded. The "First Auto" belts on your Whizzer were adaquate to get it running, and delivered, but I have had better performance form a score of other brands, including Kelly Springfield, Googyear, Bando, Carlilse, napa, Gates, and a few others.

Mike
 
You Took Me Seriously, Mike!

OF COURSE I was kidding about going to chain drive!

I'll just solve my Shreiking problem with one or more intelligent suggestions from the MotoredBike Brain Trust!

The first thing I'll do is replace both belts with Gates AX-27 and AX-62 belts.

I've got to hurry and fix that problem, because the "one-tooth" caper is next!

HAL
 
Nobody Stocks The Gates Ax-27 & Ax-62 Belts

It's not in their order books.

What's an alternative GOOD belt brand?

Thanx...
HAL
 
Notched V-belts

You could look for a Dayco brand belt or try a NAPA brand - I've seen Gates brand belts in NAPA stores too. I think any reputable industrial belt will work OK for you, but I share the same opinion as many others here, i.e., given a choice I'd take the Gates 1st every time.
 
Replaced Rear Belt...Shreiking Gone!

I replaced the stock AX-62 rear belt with a new Goodyear AX-62 belt, and the shreiking disappeared.

I wanted a Gates belt, but none of our High Desert auto supply stores carried 'em.

Then I went to an Industrial Supply house, which was also a Gates Distributor, and they didn't have an AX-62 in their order book.

Finally...on advice from Pep Boys, I went to an Industrial Bearing, Chain, Sprocket, Belt, & Pulley Supplier, and THEY didn't carry Gates belts either!

The company parts man said he'd been in business for 20 years, and he could assure me that the Goodyear belts are every bit as reliable as Gates belts, so I bought one!

Now if only I can get a pair of those handlebars I've been showing everybody!

HAL
 
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