The Saga of Plain Jane

[Alaskavan]

I'd think you will need something between the frame and mount. Also, I've read some threads that dealt with extra long shafts for the crank to provide extra clearance. You might want to look into that. You must be getting close to starting her up. Good feeling?

 

[gone_fishin]

that looks doable...i've installed a very similar mount with great luck.

like 'van, i suggest you find a "saddle" for the clamp to take up the space.

 

[whitedog]

Hi Alaska,

Getting there. I have enough clearance right now. We'll have to see if I still do once I get everything put on and the chain installed. If everything lines up I'm almost home free. If not, then it is time to do some more thinking.

Having said that, I have an elementary bicycle mechanics question for the group. In order to install the rear sprocket, it appears that I have to remove the coaster brake arm, install the sprocket and then re-install the coaster brake arm. Not having done this before, I have a dumb question, How? Any pointers would be appreciated.

 

[Alaskavan]

Here's a link:

https://motoredbikes.com/threads/coaster-brake-with-sprocket.6450/

Augie used some pics to show what he did.
Hope that helps.

 

[whitedog]

Thanks for the steer. I posted a question to Augie on that thread. I see the results, but I'm not sure how to get there.

 

[Alaskavan]

If you do find you need a longer shaft to make your cranks clear the exhaust, here's a link to a place that has parts.

http://www.cyclone-usa.com/installation.php

I got that one from Augie. (credit where credit is due)

 

[whitedog]

The Right Tools Definitely Help

After a fair amount of overtime which is nice in the paycheck and terrible for getting work on the bike done, I finally was able to start fitting the drive gear to the rear wheel. Of course, as pointed out in numerous threads including this one I had to enlarge the center hole to clear the coaster brake hub on the wheel I'm using. After figuring out how to take the coaster brake arm off (Thanks, Augie!) I measured the hub and allowed a bit for my skills as a high precision machinist (of which I have none). I figured that 1 3/4" would give me ample clearance from the hub and was an easy size to work with.

I used a compass to mark out a 1 3/4" from center circle on the gear and started filing...and filing...and filing...and filing. At this rate, I'll be here all year and still be filing; it's time for the Dremel. That was also a bust. All that I was succeeding in doing is producing an off round hole that wasn't going to be the right diameter any time soon. In desperation, I therefore called in the big guns. I took it to my barber.

I suppose I should confess that my barber is also an amateur machinist and welder and produces some very nice wrought iron work as a sideline. I sometimes think that he would be happier if he could use a cutting torch instead of clippers on some of his customers. I told him what I needed and he said "No Problem!!!" I expected it to take him a couple of days to figure out what he wanted to do but he shuts down his shop at 4:00PM and gave me a call at 4:15 to come pick up the gear. He apologized that he thinks that he was about a thousandth of an inch over. Needless to say, I told him that that wouldn't be a problem.

My only issue is that he marked the 1 3/4" dimension on the gear with a sharpie. I decided to go ahead and paint the gear to cover up the mark which was mostly successful. Most of it will be hidden behind the mounting binders anyway.

Here's a picture of the gear just laid on the wheel while the paint dries overnight. Apologies for the messy workbench. As you can see, there is ample clearance from the hub so now all I have to do is bolt it up and bend up the coaster brake arm to clear the bolts. Progress is being made.

 

[bamabikeguy]

While others exhort "read, read, read", I'm the parrot who squaucks (where that Pirate spelchek) "zip tie them spokes, zip tie them spokes".

You ARE going to hit a pothole, that is a future fact.

Less chance of wheel, spoke damage/loosening if you have the whole spokething tied together.

.50 cents now prevents $20 repair later.

Ask Orville and Wilber, the thing flew cuz it was "one tied together unit".

 

[whitedog]

While others exhort "read, read, read", I'm the parrot who squaucks (where that Pirate spelchek) "zip tie them spokes, zip tie them spokes".

Hi Bama,

YESSIR!! Spokes tied, SIR!

As you can see from the pic I've got the drive gear on the rear wheel. Nothing is tightened down for lack of a 10mm wrench which I'll pick up tomorrow. I have some overlap between the backing plates. I think that most of it should pull out as I tighten down on the bolts and the binding compresses a bit. Is this a problem?

 

[azbill]

no problem,
when tightened, there should be no space visible between rubber and spokes
just be careful in tightening evenly and keeping sprocket centered
I usually start the bolts, then tap the teeth sideways with a rubber mallot till it looks centered