water cooled head that will fit...

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I've done a lot of work on Yamaha Blasters, including liquid cooled conversion.
What I found is that you can make as much power with either.
Also found aircooled is much simpler.

Power is in the ports and combustion chamber shape.
Water cooling can help to solve an overheating problem, but doesn't make more power.
That is a fine looking idea however!

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Description

This gives you all the super powers of a water cooled engine, while allowing you to run your favorite air cooled cylinder.
Featuring all stainless hardware, and sealed with a replaceable custom cut gasket.
The combustion chamber is perfectly machined to a 12:1 compression ratio. 45mm Diameter
Head measures 140mm x 140mm, make sure you have room on your frame to clear it.
Requires the Extended length ES plugs. In/out of the coolant hose is 1/2in.
Bolts up to Puch, Tomos, Derbi, Honda, and pretty much anything with a square stud pattern.
This version 2.0 of this head, and it has been improved in almost every way.

Made in Kalamazoo by us! ($150)
 
we've got a 47mm bore, nothing a little bit of sandpaper glued to a piston can't fix though. may not even be an issue depending on how far up your piston comes. if it fits a puch cylinder it'll fit our cylinders.

HeadSmess did something similar, though I believe he custom made his. I think he found that it was a pain in the ass and generally not worth it.
 
It would likely work on a 47mm or 40mm cylinder and the Puch is the same bolt pattern.
I see they are getting by with slots for the bolts.
I would not be afraid to plunge an 8mm drill through the slot to get this head on a China Girl.

Done it before:
full
 
we've got a 47mm bore, nothing a little bit of sandpaper glued to a piston can't fix though. may not even be an issue depending on how far up your piston comes. if it fits a puch cylinder it'll fit our cylinders.

HeadSmess did something similar, though I believe he custom made his. I think he found that it was a pain in the ass and generally not worth it.
They offer them in 40mm and 47mm as well as 43mm and 45mm. What would you use for a water pump, and how much radiator would you need?
 
for a pump I'd use the thermosiphon effect. I think one of those radiators for water-cooled computers might be sufficient
 
darn tootin it was a pain in the arse!

nah, it just needed to make it to MKII, or version 1.0.2 or something...

basically i didnt give much thought to the idea, just made it... now, if i had sat down and seriously contemplated how to get the thermosiphon to work properly, and had oriented the inlet/outlet and radiator to do so...it would have worked :)

one, inlet as low as possible. 2, outlet as high as possible. 3, head has to be basically level with center of radiator, and as short and straight a run with hoses as possible. no sharp bends and no loops etc.

"polarised" isnt really the word, but the head simply needs to be plumbed so the water can flow the correct way. ^^^up^^^, as hot (less dense) water rises. no pockets, no air/water traps, just as smooth and unrestricted a flow as possible.

completely pointless, but it would have worked!

the 120mm PC radiator was adequate.


being unpressurised does limit heat transfer to an extent, and there has to be allowance for water expansion upon heating as well.

coincidentally, only just the other night i suddenly realised why the pump i had made didnt work! should have made it from plastic or something nonconductive rather than metal/alloy. eddy currents! so bleedingly obvious now...


only advantage of water cooling is when you are stuck at traffic lights on a hot day with an engine prone to overheating... and you can make multi cylinder engines smaller because you dont need fins in between. oh, and they tend to run that tiny little bit quieter. slightly more efficient with multiple cylinders as they can all have the correct mixture rather than running the center pair slightly rich...


anyone interested in buying build 1.0.2 if i make it? :) will include radiator and all :) your choice of combustion chamber volume/design, whatever!
 
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darn tootin it was a pain in the arse!

nah, it just needed to make it to MKII, or version 1.0.2 or something...

basically i didnt give much thought to the idea, just made it... now, if i had sat down and seriously contemplated how to get the thermosiphon to work properly, and had oriented the inlet/outlet and radiator to do so...it would have worked :)

one, inlet as low as possible. 2, outlet as high as possible. 3, head has to be basically level with center of radiator, and as short and straight a run with hoses as possible. no sharp bends and no loops etc.

"polarised" isnt really the word, but the head simply needs to be plumbed so the water can flow the correct way. ^^^up^^^, as hot (less dense) water rises. no pockets, no air/water traps, just as smooth and unrestricted a flow as possible.

completely pointless, but it would have worked!

the 120mm PC radiator was adequate.


being unpressurised does limit heat transfer to an extent, and there has to be allowance for water expansion upon heating as well.

coincidentally, only just the other night i suddenly realised why the pump i had made didnt work! should have made it from plastic or something nonconductive rather than metal/alloy. eddy currents! so bleedingly obvious now...


only advantage of water cooling is when you are stuck at traffic lights on a hot day with an engine prone to overheating... and you can make multi cylinder engines smaller because you dont need fins in between. oh, and they tend to run that tiny little bit quieter. slightly more efficient with multiple cylinders as they can all have the correct mixture rather than running the center pair slightly rich...


anyone interested in buying build 1.0.2 if i make it? :) will include radiator and all :) your choice of combustion chamber volume/design, whatever!
Actually something I'd be relatively interested in, I wanted to put a large tank (suzuki motorcycle/older motocross type) on my bike again, I think some problems I had were due to this large tank trapping heat around my head and made some overheating related problems.

I'm also thinking of adding some enclosure or decorative panels of some type on and around the sides. If I had liquid cooled system I could pull that off kinda well.

Only thing is removing enough heat at a standstill... Was thinking of a direct link to the motor type of approach, with a light and easily spun pump. Still don't know how I would approach any of it.
 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/172208692998

This is what I looked at for a while, only a 3rd of an amp/h in max current, could be a way to pump fluid continuously around the system but doesn't increase with engine rpm. A rheostat from an old cordless drill might work with a small bit of cable to actuate it.

Is it possible to receive just a head for experiments? I have just about every other material needed except the pump I'll need to make a system.

I was thinking of making a head or modifying mine to be liquid cooled compatible, just haven't touched the idea yet.
 
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