Well I Did it now !!!

I bought the 105g GEBE wheel as have many others here,I think the 105g equates to 12gauge spokes.These spokes are massive compared to what came stock on my Schwinn,can't imagine the spokes breaking.Well worth the $114.00.
Keep in mind that you will need a new cassette to accompany the wheel as most all Schwinn's are thread on types +$30.00.I wouldn't worry about the front wheel unless it proves nessesary.My tires are hanging tough after 1500 miles in triple digit temps, definitely agree that proper tire pressure helps fend off tire/tube issues.Come to think of it,I need to straighten out my rear valve stem that I have been putting off for two weeks now,and change the oil on the R/S........Later!
 
I bought the 105g GEBE wheel as have many others here,I think the 105g equates to 12gauge spokes.These spokes are massive compared to what came stock on my Schwinn,can't imagine the spokes breaking.Well worth the $114.00.
Keep in mind that you will need a new cassette to accompany the wheel as most all Schwinn's are thread on types +$30.00.I wouldn't worry about the front wheel unless it proves nessesary.My tires are hanging tough after 1500 miles in triple digit temps, definitely agree that proper tire pressure helps fend off tire/tube issues.Come to think of it,I need to straighten out my rear valve stem that I have been putting off for two weeks now,and change the oil on the R/S........Later!
I'm about to get a better front rim for my bike. 22 to 27 on a bike requires a better quality front rim.
 
i have two heavy duty 12 gage steel wheels on my bike, i picked them up from the local bike store, they ran about $50 each. These wheels feel solid just the weight with the tires on you could use them for bench pressing.

The gebe wheel is much better quality but for now these will do just fine, i feel alot more secure knowing i have something stronger engaging the ground than the original 14 Gage stock wheels, especially when you start to cruise over 20mph.
 
Well just got back in town and went for a ride, It's stiil nice weather here ..Trying to ride everyday.. my bikes doing ok , just got to check all the nuts before riding, last week my front wheel got way loose. I could have got in trouble on that one...
The Golden Eagle is doing great starts perfect every time ..
it sure is smooth running .. need to save up for wheels and tires...
talking tomorrow off to ride all day..
later....
 
go down to your local hardware store and get some of the blue locknut thread superglue, works graet and nuts can be opened with spanner.
 
Pics of my M/B

Schwinn Point Beach GEBE 32 cc Tanaka
 

Attachments

  • bike1.jpg
    bike1.jpg
    149.4 KB · Views: 183
  • bike2.jpg
    bike2.jpg
    160.7 KB · Views: 169
  • bike3.jpg
    bike3.jpg
    141.4 KB · Views: 187
looking good there seahan, i installed some new handebars on my bike so i could sit up cruiser style, makes the ride so much more comfortable, my lower back bugs me now and then, so the straighter the better fo me.
 
Question ??? My rear wheel has some side to side play in it. The axel nuts are tight, Looks like the play in in the rear hub, Did I kill this cheap wheel. or do I need to take wheel off and tighten the big nut on the cassette ???
Other than that the bike is doing good got over 100 miles on it now.
This bike is really Light and it flies, seems like the Tanaka is getting stronger.
will be interesting to see what my new oil/mix will do to it if anything.
I bought some Lucas semi synth 50:1 oil.
Looks like good riding weather tomorrow !!!!
 
wheel-play = belt-fray

if the "wobble" is fresh, maybe a service and adjustment will do the trick. i'm no help with the cassette hubs, i'll have you crawling around on the floor chasing tiny little ball-bearings and cussin' me out :LOL:

better check or ask in "bicycle-repair" about info on that.

if there's damage, mostly it's a 30mph-bicycle-wheel-thingy, a common lesson-learned but not necessarily a pricey one...if you can't do the velocity wheels, there's a $40 option in steel with 12G spokes at bikepartsusa...my coaster versions last a good long time for the money.

starting with lucas so soon is great...get another 200 or so miles on it, then you'll really start to brag up that 32. be mindful of belt-alignment, and make sure to pedal enuff... :cool:
 
Last edited:
Sean,

The bearings on a bike wheel (there are exceptions) are normally tapered so that they may be tightened to remove side to side play. I can't tell you if there is something dammaged with your wheel but if it rolls smoothly but has a bit of side to side play the bearings are likely all right and just need tightening a bit.

It is important that you do NOT overtighten the bearings and someone else on the forum could tell you better how this is accomplished but basically you loosen the nuts holding the axel to your bike frame and then tighten the inner axel nut (opposite the side of the chain).

It would probably be best to remove the wheel to do this so that you can "feel" the run of the bearings once you have tightened it up. By this I mean, hold the wheel axel in your hands, turn the wheel and listen and feel the smoothness of the wheel bearings. If you overtighten the bearing nut, you will notice that the bearings are binding and the wheel does not turn as well. Find the happy spot and your good to go.

This is all assuming that your cheap bike wheel (like my cheap bike wheel) is still working fine.

A note on the bearings themselves. The bearings are likely a collection of loose ball bearings captured between two rolling surfaces. If you loosen the axel nut enough to expose the balls they can fall out of position, either into the wheel hub or out of the hub and onto the ground... bouncing merrily away. Just don't overloosen the nut and you shouldn't have that problem.

If however you did take it apart... get some good thick wheelbearing grease and re-grease your bearings before re-assembling. The grease will likely be better than what came with the bike and it will hold the bearings in place while you re-assemble it.

I haven't looked but you can probably find a video on youtube walking you through all of this... or you could find diagrams on bearing hubs on the web to help.

The more you know about your bike, the more confident you will become with your new wheels. There is really nothing "rocket science" about it. If you have trouble getting things back together you can always bag everything up and take it to your local bike shop. They will help you get it back together for a very reasonable fee. If your missing a ball or two they will have the spares. So no worries mate!

Let us know the outcome.

Happy trails!

Ross
 
Back
Top