Would you believe I'm planning my next build? (4 Stroke Content)

from what I can figure it threads on one of those flip flop hubs. The ones that have threads for a freewheel one both sides(they only work when on the right).

edit: no reason you couldnt turn a rear wheel around and use it in front tho. I guess... theres prob a reason lol.
 
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Arai Drum Brakes

They are most commonly used as a drag brake on Tandems. they are usually set up on the stocker handle bars using a bar-end shifter or a thumb shifter to apply them.and use is pretty much limited to b providing additional braking during long downhill runs. They have right had threads and thread onto a set of right hand freewheel threads on the left side of tandem hubs. You could use this brake as a front brake buy changing the spacing on a rear freewheel hub to 100mm and putting the threads on the left side of the fork. You would probably have to enlarge the fork dropout as most rear hubs have 10mm dia axles and front hubs have 9mm dia axles. But it would be pretty simple to enlarge the dropout.

ocscully
 
They are most commonly used as a drag brake on Tandems. they are usually set up on the stocker handle bars using a bar-end shifter or a thumb shifter to apply them.and use is pretty much limited to b providing additional braking during long downhill runs. They have right had threads and thread onto a set of right hand freewheel threads on the left side of tandem hubs. You could use this brake as a front brake buy changing the spacing on a rear freewheel hub to 100mm and putting the threads on the left side of the fork. You would probably have to enlarge the fork dropout as most rear hubs have 10mm dia axles and front hubs have 9mm dia axles. But it would be pretty simple to enlarge the dropout.

ocscully

Would they be worth it? I have an extra freewheel around, so I could just thread that on. But do they stop well in comparison to regular drums or are they pretty much just exclusively meant for downhill drags?
 
Looks to me like it might be a strap style brake. Might not provide a lot of stopping power. This is all just assumptions.
 
Here's a good discusson on coasters from a year ago. They don't seem made for our speeds and temperatures
 
A friend from another forum offered me a fork with cantilever/v-brake studs, and it's chrome. No suspension (but it's free).
 
So, I'm thinking out loud here. I want to make studs so I can mount a rear v-brake. Would drilling through the frame and using stainless steel bolts through the frame to make studs be an unwise thing to do? Would it sacrifice too much strength in the frame itself?

Also, here's a picture of the fork.
 

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Even better news! A friend of the guy I bought the frame from offered me his springer fork with studs for side pull brakes! He's selling it with the frame, so I'm taking the fork and my friend is taking the frame....so we're starting ANOTHER 4 stroke project for my friend.
 
Okay, now this is where I go overboard.

I was in my art studio today, working on some drawings for class, when I saw my friend Jake who is going to be an automotive designer and he's a motorcycle fanatic. We started talking about our projects (he works on his motorcycle) and we started discussing a custom build tank for my schwinn.

We brainstormed and as of right now, this is what we came up with. The basic idea is to get a good profile of the section of the cruiser frame where a tank could be fitted. Once we have the profile, we'd cut it out of sheet aluminum twice. Those would act as the sides of the tank. The rest would be like, 5 or so inch wide strips that would have perpendicular bends on both sides, probably about a half inch or so, maybe a bit less. Once we cut these strips to fit, they would slide over the profile side pieces and be pop riveted in place using stainless steel pop rivets. Where the corner's overlap, the pop rivets would go through both pieces (see the diagram).

When looking at the tank from the top, where those corners meet we'd fasten a piece of aluminum over those to prevent any gaps. Once this is all taken care of, all of the gaps would be epoxied shut and we would coat the inside with Kreem or something similar.

I came up with a concept of a cheap and dirty cap. Once we finish the tank, a hole will be drilled in the top (the tank would be wide enough to allow a cap to be fitted on the left or right side of the crossbar. This hole will have a vulcanized rubber grommet covering the sharp edge, and glued in place. This would allow us to use a test plug, which is a plumbing device, for a cap. The way a test plug works is, it's essentially 2 washers, one with a square center hole, seperated by a rubber donut. A carriage bolt head fits into the square hole in the bottom washer, and the threads would go through the donut and washer, and would have a wing nut and cap not on the top. When you tighten the wing nut, it would compress the donut between the two washers, cashing the rubber squish and expand outward. This would create a rubber on rubber seal with the edge of the tank, hopefully making it splashproof. In order to keep the cap from falling in, I can replace the top washer with a larger one. The cap nut will be loctited on, to ensure I don't lose the wing nut. And later down the road I can get a decorative looking knob, drill it through and retap it to the same threads as the carriage bolt to make a nifty looking cap.

I've included a rough and quick illustrator rendering of my idea, including the plug. The scale and everything isn't entirely correct.

Tell me what you think.
 

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