Thatsdax Titan XC 50cc

[duivendyk]

Yes, your rear mount looks pretty solid,but also gets quite a reaction moment from the drive !.Bike frames are not designed to take large bending moments except for the pedal drive,or to cope with a lot of vibration.The steel ones are much less prone to this insidious vibration induced metal fatigue.
I think the Titan has a lot going for it otherwise, they seem to be quite willing to learn from experience&listen to feedback,which is refreshing,all too often NIH is the rule

 

[Scottm]

Yes, your rear mount looks pretty solid,but also gets quite a reaction moment from the drive !.Bike frames are not designed to take large bending moments except for the pedal drive,or to cope with a lot of vibration.The steel ones are much less prone to this insidious vibration induced metal fatigue.
I think the Titan has a lot going for it otherwise, they seem to be quite willing to learn from experience&listen to feedback,which is refreshing,all too often NIH is the rule

I'm not sure what NIH is, but I have to listen to you all. For one, i hate pedalling when I have a perfectly good motor, plus most of you are more mechanically minded and don't have my ADD.
I have a new torque strap built solid and will show pictures tomorrow.
I appreciate everyone's help and insight!

 

[duivendyk]

NIH stands for Not Invented Here,it denotes the attitude of a supercilious,hidebound organization which, convinced of it's superiority and excellence looks down upon and discounts the work of others'.The dealings of mighty BIG BLUE (IBM) vis a vis Bill Gates and Microsoft come to mind.

 

[vyzhion]

I replaced my original torque strap rod with a stainless steel rod and it still flexed quite a bit over bumps. The weak point was still the welded tube/bolt that mounts it to the frame. I like the way Fetor has replaced that with a dual bolt clamp. I am still replacing the whole thing with a Staton u-bracket and bolting angle iron on both sides of the engine mounting plate as I feel that will make the setup much more sturdy. I'm just waiting for it to arrive. Come on UPS!

 

[duivendyk]

I agree,it would not hurt to incorporate a rubber bushing with some kind of clevis at one end and arrange it so that the reaction rod can swivel in the vertical plane,this to insulate the frame from the engine platform and also keep any bending torque away from it.This may be an overkill but it's better safe than sorry

 

[fetor56]

Does anyone have a small hole in the end of their PTO drainplug the same as me.I just wondered what it's for cos it extends all the way through the plug and emerges as 4 smaller holes under the rubber seal....seems wierd to me but maybe it's some sort of pressure/overflow venting valve?

PS...does anyone know the quantity and grade of oil required to do an oil change?

 

[vyzhion]

As far as rubber bushings are concerned, I have used skateboard truck bushings and they work great. I had planned on using them where the angle-iron bolts down to the engine mounting plate to absorb the vibrations and some of the flex when I hit bumps.

 

[Scottm]

Another new torque strap

I had to agree with Fetor that the strap should be stiff/rigid. The construction company in the warehouse next door always throws away good stuff. My last find was 3/8th all thread 6foot long and a box of nuts and washers to go along with it.
Dax's original strap was 5/16th. Luckily the 3/8th fits perfectly in the sleeves of Dax's connectors. I used some of my 1 in 16ga steel tubing I use for my product. Punched 3/8th holes in it on my punch press. Instead of one solid bold bent or welded, I have 2 individual bolts attached to the tubing.

For another idea. What do you guys think if I would get some strong springs and put them between washers where the nuts hit the tubing or the the sleeves? To absorb some of the push and pull of the engine?

 

[Scottm]

Does anyone have a small hole in the end of their PTO drainplug the same as me.I just wondered what it's for cos it extends all the way through the plug and emerges as 4 smaller holes under the rubber seal....seems wierd to me but maybe it's some sort of pressure/overflow venting valve?
View attachment 9562
PS...does anyone know the quantity and grade of oil required to do an oil change?

Dax explained to me that it was a weep hole to allow some oil to drip out of. I think Augi did some testing on it when it first came out. I believe he took the PTO apart and put White lithium grease in there.
I used a drinking straw and some 10w-30(What I had at the time) and dropped a few ounces of oil in the top hole. It quited the PTO up a bit but some of it still drained out the weep hole.
I contact Duane for correct grade and frequency of changes.

 

[turkeyssr]

Hey Scott -

I didn't even think of using a box section of metal to connect the 2 5/16" rods. Instead I used 2 pieces of flat iron pre-drilled from Home Depot and bent at a right angle. (I like your idea much better)

--John