Clutch Abandon clutch set up for simplicity?

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So as of recently most may know I have clutch issues due to gear ratio....

At this point in time I'd rather abandon the idea of clutches all the way and go direct drive with a secondary pulley to act as a tensioner via pull cable or rod.

I do not wish to have to deal with it at all anymore....

"I would rather develop a fixed gear and swap as I go set up."

This involves gearing the motor via pulley based off land geographic's with current settings I currently at 3.25 flat land to mild incline I get 35-40mph with a 15" sheave

What 3 other pulley size options would I need to handle a 45 degree 75 degree slope at 30-35 mph w
ithout overloading the crankshaft...



For flat area I'D probably go further up to a 3:50 pulley but for hills should I drop size or raise it at theory I believe a 2.50 to 2.75 dia pulley for hills.


On average I will have to climb one hill between that level of degree three times a week about 7.9 miles of uphill "according to Google." Which is my only hill there is no traffic lights between this stretch so it's full throttle all the way...

Other then that I'm a flat land rider
 
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So as of recently most may know I have clutch issues due to gear ratio....

At this point in time I'd rather abandon the idea of clutches all the way and go direct drive with a secondary pulley to act as a tensioner via pull cable or rod.

I do not wish to have to deal with it at all anymore....

"I would rather develop a fixed gear and swap as I go set up."

This involves gearing the motor via pulley based off land geographic's with current settings I currently at 3.25 flat land to mild incline I get 35-40mph with a 15" sheave

What 3 other pulley size options would I need to handle a 45 degree 75 degree slope at 30-35 mph w
ithout overloading the crankshaft...



For flat area I'D probably go further up to a 3:50 pulley but for hills should I drop size or raise it at theory I believe a 2.50 to 2.75 dia pulley for hills.


On average I will have to climb one hill between that level of degree three times a week about 7.9 miles of uphill "according to Google." Which is my only hill there is no traffic lights between this stretch so it's full throttle all the way...

Other then that I'm a flat land rider
A 45 degree to 75 degree incline for 7.9 miles nothing would climb that,The max allowable grade on public roads in North America is a 20 percent grade
1422666024476.jpg

This is the steepest public road in the world with a grade of 37 percent and no where near 75 degrees.Try climbling that from a standing start LOL.Now imagine almost 8 miles of it,No freaking way that's happening
 
A 45 degree to 75 degree incline for 7.9 miles nothing would climb that,The max allowable grade on public roads in North America is a 20 percent grade
1422666024476.jpg

This is the steepest public road in the world with a grade of 37 percent and no where near 75 degrees.Try climbling that from a standing start LOL.Now imagine almost 8 miles of it,No freaking way that's happening


That's kind of what this parts like except this is WA FULL OF HILLS STEEPER THEN THAT.

But, isn't 45 I was looking at a chart showing elevation.

Specially in west Seattle near the fire station but look I'm not trying to fly up a hill that's a pipe dream.

Just looking to get the most out of my build.

If I could Google Maps and..... wait...


Take a look at these...

Screenshot_20171021-231037.png
Screenshot_20171021-231111.png
Screenshot_20171021-231037.png



This long winding bend is the terrain Goes from decent to steep to being known as the car killer going down.

Most vehicles "die" going down Vs up this hill but this can kick an f250 into overdrive quickly.

But that's not the worst of Seattle, just mild for those who feel I'm talking business the end what kills...


Didn't say for 8 miles same incline but it gets pretty steep.

Feeling that if I get a good speed going the rest can be maintained with some pedal upgrade us know?

 
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That's kind of what this parts like except this is WA FULL OF HILLS STEEPER THEN THAT.

But, isn't 45 I was looking at a chart showing elevation.

Specially in west Seattle near the fire station but look I'm not trying to fly up a hill that's a pipe dream.

Just looking to get the most out of my build.

If I could Google Maps and..... wait...


Take a look at these...

View attachment 79594 View attachment 79595 View attachment 79594


This long winding bend is the terrain Goes from decent to steep to being known as the car killer going down.

Most vehicles "die" going down Vs up this hill but this can kick an f250 into overdrive quickly.

But that's not the worst of Seattle, just mild for those who feel I'm talking business the end what kills...


Didn't say for 8 miles same incline but it gets pretty steep.

Feeling that if I get a good speed going the rest can be maintained with some pedal upgrade us know?
On average I will have to climb one hill between that level of degree three times a week about 7.9 miles of uphill "according to Google."Is what you said!And WA FULL OF HILLS STEEPER THEN THAT Well You might think so but the pic I showed is the official worlds steepest public road so no not steeper than that LOL.
 
On average I will have to climb one hill between that level of degree three times a week about 7.9 miles of uphill "according to Google."Is what you said!And WA FULL OF HILLS STEEPER THEN THAT Well You might think so but the pic I showed is the official worlds steepest public road so no not steeper than that LOL.


Single hill gear suggestions?
 
Single hill gear suggestions?
Without a clutch not going to happen and to get a ratio that will work to climb that distance you wont be doing 30-35 mph even a 2" pulley wont do it,you would need to have one custom made.A 1" pulley at 3,600 rpm is around 18 mph and should pull it up that grade.
 
Without a clutch not going to happen and to get a ratio that will work to climb that distance you wont be doing 30-35 mph even a 2" pulley wont do it,you would need to have one custom made.A 1" pulley at 3,600 rpm is around 18 mph and should pull it up that grade.

The OP's engine has a 3/4" shaft; unsure if there's enough hub and keyway for a 1" pulley for that shaft.

The OP MIGHT need a series of pulleys, jackshafts and/or Torq/Vertor to get the low gear ratio he desires.

The way to figure out what'd work is for him to do research and find out what worked for the many motorized bikes of similar build.

Once you find the ratio that works/worked for others, you build from there.

Take 15:1 gear ratio, as an example.
(15" sheave/1" pulley).
If that was the ratio that worked for others,
then he's way off with his present gear ratio of
4.69:1(15" sheave/3.2" crank pulley).

Try a 5"jackshaft pulley/2" crank pulley,
with a 15" sheave/2" jackshaft pulley.

(5"/2") x 7.5 = 18.75:1 ratio.

Speed of 15.42mph @ 3600rpm
would most likely climb that very steep hill.

Now to go 37.6mph @ 3600 rpm,
your gear ratio should be around
7.7:1 .

You should be able to do that with a 1.94" pulley.
Since the 2" pulley is measured at its outer circular edge,
the belt should ride lower in the pulley's groove.....

like at 1.75"-1.94" diameter.....

which is 8.57:1 or 7.73:1 gear ratios.

2" pulley:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Chicago-Di...146914&hash=item3f7c11b593:g:8WkAAOSwInxXNmiU

1.75" pulley"
https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-CHICAG...079432?hash=item1e6d148208:g:12gAAOxyshFRe7NU


Now all these ratios must be adjusted when the OP removes the governor and adds a cam.
 
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The OP's engine has a 3/4" shaft; unsure if there's enough hub and keyway for a 1" pulley for that shaft.

The OP MIGHT need a series of pulleys, jackshafts and/or Torq/Vertor to get the low gear ratio he desires.

The way to figure out what'd work is for him to do research and find out what worked for the many motorized bikes of similar build.

Once you find the ratio that works/worked for others, you build from there.

Take 15:1 gear ratio, as an example.
(15" sheave/1" pulley).
If that was the ratio that worked for others,
then he's way off with his present gear ratio of
4.69:1(15" sheave/3.2" crank pulley).

Try a 5"jackshaft pulley/2" crank pulley,
with a 15" sheave/2" jackshaft pulley.

(5"/2") x 7.5 = 18.75:1 ratio.

Speed of 15.42mph @ 3600rpm
would most likely climb that very steep hill.

Now to go 37.6mph @ 3600 rpm,
your gear ratio should be around
7.7:1 .

You should be able to do that with a 1.94" pulley.
Since the 2" pulley is measured at its outer circular edge,
the belt should ride lower in the pulley's groove.....

like at 1.75"-1.94" diameter.....

which is 8.57:1 or 7.73:1 gear ratios.

2" pulley:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Chicago-Di...146914&hash=item3f7c11b593:g:8WkAAOSwInxXNmiU

1.75" pulley"
https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-CHICAG...079432?hash=item1e6d148208:g:12gAAOxyshFRe7NU


Now all these ratios must be adjusted when the OP removes the governor and adds a cam.

Thank you, also there is no governor as it has been deleted idles been preset and the carbuerator has been re-tuned with the belt off the vehicle.

I new I was slightly off because for some reason when the engine is cracked open with the throttle disabled it would kind of slug then rev up.. now it responds crisp and it has lessened the load on the clutch.

Doesn't really tambourine like it use to

In regards to options I'D rather stay with solid pulleys or just upgrade to a torque drive converter.
As converters can withstand slow speed clutches how ever cannot and can burn up within 2 minutes if geared wrong.

I still have no idea how mine has not burnt up yet, must mean I'm slightly close to proper ratio....

If it was as bad as proclaimed the first time I hit 35mph would have failed.

I've put a total of 60-70 miles on the clutch with no issues so far although Go kart supply has told me that a bit of "chatter" is normal for a clutch of this caliber.

What are some things that could happen if the clutch shall fail?

Maybe next month I'll map out a setup for a single Jack shaft with double pulleys out of some steel rounds.
 
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F it.
I'll just say it.
It may sound offensive,
but I'm trying not to be.

You are not a smart person.

And I mean intellectually(book smarts)
and sensibly(street smarts).

We're just trying to help you.

You just don't have the street smarts to
learn from other people's experiences.

The most expensive way to learn is trial.....
by.....
error.

And that's how you roll.

No offense meant, seriously.

By the way, the purpose of the clutch is to protect
the engine crank, rod and piston from the violence of
the driven parts to the road.

Let's hope you're skillful at tensing and loosening the drive belt.....
without a clutch.
 
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F it.
I'll just say it.
It may sound offensive,
but I'm trying not to be.

You are not a smart person.

And I mean intellectually(book smarts)
and sensibly(street smarts).

We're just trying to help you.

You just don't have the street smarts to
learn from other people's experiences.

The most expensive way to learn is trial.....
by.....
error.

And that's how you roll.

No offense meant, seriously.

By the way, the purpose of the clutch is to protect
the engine crank, rod and piston from the violence of
the driven parts to the road.

Let's hope you're skillful at tensing and loosening the drive belt.....
without a clutch.

My brother if you understand my view in the world as a guy with alot of kids you would see this bike has no choice... it's a slow repair...

Others experience help word of mouth... but won't fit budget all in all that's no reason to call out someone's smarts I attended highschool and college with completion that don't mean crap at the end of the day with 6 kids, one wife, bills and 1 RV plus a van.

The all mighty nail in my back side would be the government I receive social security and you don't probably know what type of limitations that provides when they only allow you to work 3 days a week @ 11.00 an hour.

I'm trying to get "my rigg" together by all means and the way out is welding and project rods.

Jack shafts out my range sometimes it's not the rabbit that wins the race it's the turtle.


Read Job 10:13 section 12


 
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