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gary55

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Firmstrong Bruiser with Lifan 118cc, motor sport manual clutch 9' header, trick emulsion tube. Not really fast. Still has governor, stock springs and air box. I have heard that you can remove the gov without worries as long as you keep the stock valve springs it won't go over 5200. Anyone have any experience where the cut off is before billet parts are needed?
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On the carts we make, we always recommend that if anyone removes the governor to use a billet flywheel. I've seen guys with electric start so ne billet flywheel and they have faired well.
That motor is the same configuration as the Honda clone but in a 118 cc version, correct?


I'm working on a 80 cc version on a bike right now.
 
100236

Snow's a coming soon and my bike will look like that covered though. Brrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr. Funny when I had my electric bike I kept it inside. Maybe because of gas, oil and theft issues.
 
On the carts we make, we always recommend that if anyone removes the governor to use a billet flywheel. I've seen guys with electric start so ne billet flywheel and they have faired well.
That motor is the same configuration as the Honda clone but in a 118 cc version, correct?


I'm working on a 80 cc version on a bike right now.
Yep the Lifan 118 is a clone of the honda gx i20. A billet flywheel, rod, and 18lb. springs are available. Not sure about a cam or advance setups. I'm just not sure I want to keep it or sell it. It is fun to ride. I have 12 at the clutch. jack shaft is 45 in 14 out and 44 at the hub. Wheels are 27.5" tall so right around 25 mph at 3600 rpm and holds it going up fairly steep hills. The 3D motorsport clutch works really well. With the parts ungoverned and maybe a little larger out sprocket on the j shaft I think 50+ would be possible. Then it's a death trap without upgrading the brakes. It is tempting though. Thanks for your input on what these things will take. I have been doing some research, but have no personal experience with these engines.
 
If your keeping it for a personal ride, then do the valve springs. If you're going to sell it then don't do them and the valves will float around 4500-5000 rpm and act like a governor in a way. That way you won't be selling a machine that it capable of over 50. Probably not even 40, but still a fun ride for someone.
 
If your keeping it for a personal ride, then do the valve springs. If you're going to sell it then don't do them and the valves will float around 4500-5000 rpm and act like a governor in a way. That way you won't be selling a machine that it capable of over 50. Probably not even 40, but still a fun ride for someone.
This is what I've heard too. I hear the 118 floats at 5200 and that this is below the danger zone for the stock rod and fly wheel? I guess there is enough clearance that bouncing a valve is not a issue? I've sent some questions into OMB on upgrades for this engine.
 
This is what I've heard too. I hear the 118 floats at 5200 and that this is below the danger zone for the stock rod and fly wheel? I guess there is enough clearance that bouncing a valve is not a issue? I've sent some questions into OMB on upgrades for this engine.
OMB is a good place to look for info on little 4 strokes, I just got a few parts for my Mikuni from them back in August.
I think most of the clones are all forged rods now, easier to make. Flywheels won't come apart unless you're pulling 8k on the rpm scale. I have a billet flywheel on my cart but probably don't need it, I only run at 6500 rpm. Fun times at 50 mph on skinny wheels.
 

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OMB is a good place to look for info on little 4 strokes, I just got a few parts for my Mikuni from them back in August.
I think most of the clones are all forged rods now, easier to make. Flywheels won't come apart unless you're pulling 8k on the rpm scale. I have a billet flywheel on my cart but probably don't need it, I only run at 6500 rpm. Fun times at 50 mph on skinny wheels.
That is one cool lookin machine. Good to know on the flywheel.
 
5500-6000 rpm is about the max cut off before parts start flying. (although I've run my 100cc engine constantly over 6800rpm with zero issues, until i sold it to by buddy)

the first thing to go on engines is usually the rod, then its flywheel.

i think you should be fine, just remove the plastic governor gear internally as that can shatter and cause stuff to break.

id also get valve springs as well, just watch the tach and don't try to over-rev the motor if you can help it.
 
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